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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
222 1977
What keeps the PTO engaged ? Is it something on the PTO lever or something in the pto. My lever engages the PTO but as soon as you let go of lever it disengages.
Thanks
Al
 

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It is a cam lock type of action. The design of the bearing carriers are offset, so as to lock in when the lever is pushed forward. The lever should kind of "snap" into place. If your PTO releases itself, you need to adjust it. There are instructions in the stickeys at the top of the Case forum.
 

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222 1977
What keeps the PTO engaged ?

The pressure from the two Belleville washers.

Is it something on the PTO lever

No. The lever plays no part in keeping the clutch engaged. All the lever does is engage and disengage the clutch.

or something in the pto.

Correct. If you consult the clutch service manual that is in the sticky at the top of the forum, you will see two "cup-shaped washers" that face each other. These Belleville washers place tension on the complete clutch assembly when it is in proper adjustment and that tension keeps the clutch engaged and also puts pressure on the clutch disc so that it does not slip when under load. As the disc wears down, the washer tension is reduced until it reaches the point that your clutch is in. You need to learn how to adjust and repair your clutch so you can keep it in proper adjustment all the time. Don't allow it to get to the stage it's in because it has been slipping for some time.

My lever engages the PTO but as soon as you let go of lever it disengages.
Thanks
Al
Mastering the art of clutch adjustment takes time and practice but once you understand how to do it, then future adjustments will become second nature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
torn it apart today. its the old type clutch #c19803 shim type.
now i need the clutch hub #c18907 because its worn and the back bearing is wigging loose on shaft. by looking at parts drawing they had all the shims in back of the clutch plate. so now im looking for a clutch i guess. or looking for parts for it like new shims and hub and bearings. the friction disc has alot of meat on it yet.
 

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Mastering the art of clutch adjustment takes time and practice but once you understand how to do it, then future adjustments will become second nature.
That's a fact. I know I busted knuckles and cursed the thing silly the first adjustment or two.

Joel
 

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torn it apart today. its the old type clutch #c19803 shim type.
now i need the clutch hub #c18907 because its worn and the back bearing is wigging loose on shaft. by looking at parts drawing they had all the shims in back of the clutch plate. so now im looking for a clutch i guess. or looking for parts for it like new shims and hub and bearings. the friction disc has alot of meat on it yet.
I suggest that you buy a used but really good clutch off of e-Bay from a seller such as XETTA because Dan doesn't sell junk. Expect to pay $150.00 for something that still has life in it. You will be able to move to the EZ adjust model but you can keep your old shim style around for parts as most are the same. Make sure that you get a Kohler clutch, not a Onan clutch or it won't bolt up.
 

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Thanks Castoff. I did not know what the two "Belleville washers" were called.
:thanku::thanku:
I did already understand the theory and what they do. Genius in their simplicity.
Great explanation BTW
 
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