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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Let me make this easier for myself since they did in fact send me the wrong part.

When using receiver connection (on a tractor not truck) what is the standard or safest way to connect male/female or 2"OD piece vs 2"ID piece.

What I mean is, to me, the female (2"OD) would be on the tractor frame hitch and you would slide the implement (2"ID) into that and lock. Or is it the other way around where the implement slides over the piece affixed to tractor hitch/frame?

The adapter they sent me is indeed 2in outside diameter same as the middlebuster so obviously they wont connect. But if example number one above is standard then i would just keep it and attempt to get an extension to make the pieces fit for this use case.

I hope this makes sense to you
 

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What I mean is, to me, the female (2"OD) would be on the tractor frame hitch and you would slide the implement (2"ID) into that and lock.
Normally, the 2" OD part is called the male. The 2" ID part is called the female. The male part fits into the female part.

MA implements have a 2" ID (female/receiver) connection. The sleeve hitch adapter you have could be a 2" receiver (2" ID, female), which is designed to hold a 2" OD (male) hitch.

Pictures of what you got would probably help. But, if you have two females, you need a double male to connect them. That would be a piece of 2" OD (male) tube. That is fairly easy to source, but would need to be cut to size and have holes drilled for the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Normally, the 2" OD part is called the male. The 2" ID part is called the female. The male part fits into the female part.

MA implements have a 2" ID (female/receiver) connection. The sleeve hitch adapter you have could be a 2" receiver (2" ID, female), which is designed to hold a 2" OD (male) hitch.

Pictures of what you got would probably help. But, if you have two females, you need a double male to connect them. That would be a piece of 2" OD (male) tube. That is fairly easy to source, but would need to be cut to size and have holes drilled for the pins.
I've re-read this several times and I think you have it backwards. The male part can't fit into the female part if it has a larger OD than the female. It would fit OVER it, but not INTO it.

I'll take some pics when I get outside but I looked at my order and part #'s as well as the description and they didn't send what I ordered.

So is there a standard here? When you buy a truck with a hitch and tow package is the reciever on the truck 2OD or 2ID? Or does it just very and I need both attachment so I can fit whatever I buy without issue.
 

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I believe you are confusing ID and OD. OD is outside dimension (or diameter for round things). ID is inside dimension. Here is a 2" ID (female tube) Class III 12 in. x 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube (harborfreight.com) Its OD is larger than 2".
2494343



Here is the male version: 2" Ball Mount Hitch with 0 Drop (harborfreight.com)
2494344


The male (hitch) part fits into the female (receiver) part. If you have an angle grinder and a cut-off wheel, you can cut off the ball end of the hitch and drill another hole so you can connect the two receiver ends together. Normally (but not always) the receiver part has extra metal around it to make it clear it is the receiver and not the shank/hitch.

Here is another source:
MetalsDepot® - Buy Steel Square Tube Online!

This is female tube:
T1212238
2-1/2 X 2-1/2 X .238 wall (2.024" Inside)
A500 Square Telescopic Tube - Smooth Inside
6.83 lb

This is male tube:
T122316
2 X 2 X 3/16 wall
A500 Square Steel Tube
4.32 lb

As you can see, the OD of female tube is 2-1/2" which is much larger than 2". The female tube is also much more expensive, because it has to be smooth on the inside, while the male does not.
 

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The male part can't fit into the female part if it has a larger OD than the female.
I assume your parents gave you the talk about the birds and the bees ;)

That is why the parts that fit into other parts are called male and the parts that can accept male parts are called female. Receivers are female and ball hitches are male. MA uses receiver (female) connections on their implements. Pretty much everybody who makes adapters for sleeve hitches makes them as 2" receiver hitches (so they are female). It sounds like you bought a sleeve hitch to receiver adapter.

This is the diagram for one of the MA adapter that you need to attach an implement:
2494346


This is a male part. It is slightly smaller than 2" OD, so it should fit fine in something that is slightly larger than 2" ID (or even 2" ID exactly).

It looks like they have improved their web site and you bought this (or they shipped it to you accidentally): IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch to 2" Receiver Hitch (motoalliance.com)

This is the part that you may have wanted: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch Adapter (motoalliance.com)

Or, you can just buy some 2" square tube and drill two holes for the pins on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Yes sorry i read it wrong, my bad. I do work with tubing all the time, i clearly understand ID and OD I just read it backwards, was in a hurry.

Regardless the pieces they sent are the same OD so they will not slot into one another
2494357



I will call their customer service and get it figured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I assume your parents gave you the talk about the birds and the bees ;)

That is why the parts that fit into other parts are called male and the parts that can accept male parts are called female. Receivers are female and ball hitches are male. MA uses receiver (female) connections on their implements. Pretty much everybody who makes adapters for sleeve hitches makes them as 2" receiver hitches (so they are female). It sounds like you bought a sleeve hitch to receiver adapter.

This is the diagram for one of the MA adapter that you need to attach an implement:
View attachment 2494346

This is a male part. It is slightly smaller than 2" OD, so it should fit fine in something that is slightly larger than 2" ID (or even 2" ID exactly).

It looks like they have improved their web site and you bought this (or they shipped it to you accidentally): IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch to 2" Receiver Hitch (motoalliance.com)

This is the part that you may have wanted: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch Adapter (motoalliance.com)

Or, you can just buy some 2" square tube and drill two holes for the pins on both sides.
It looks like they do sell a sleeve hitch to male receiver adapter. That would be what I want as then any standard other receiver (female) implements would slide right on.
 

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Yes, they sent you the sleeve hitch to receiver adapter. You can use this with a the ball hitch, which might be an advantage.
 

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this one will work with your ripper: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch Adapter (motoalliance.com)

they sent you this one: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch to 2" Receiver Hitch (motoalliance.com)

way back at this post
you asked the difference between them. The information on their web site is not clear, and not really correct. After making a joke, I suggested:
But, seriously, they look the same. I would call and see if they can tell you the difference.
reading the headings today, and seeing the results, it is clearer. the 2nd one is NOT for their implements but rather for standard hitch things.

So, the question is which did you order?

The now say this:

Features:
Provides a mounting point for all Impact Implement Pro Accessories (excluding the 1-Point Lift System)
Requires a sleeve hitch (not included) installed on garden tractor
Dimensions:
  • Inner Diameter - 2" x 2"
  • Outer Diameter -

Provide a mounting point for:
Impact Implements Pro Blade with Box Ends
Impact Implements Pro Landscape Rake with Tipper Latch
Impact Implements Pro Cultivator
Impact Implements Pro Disc Plow
Impact Implements Pro Middle Buster

The first part is correct. The last bit is totally incorrect. You can achieve it, but you need the double male part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Yes, they sent you the sleeve hitch to receiver adapter. You can use this with a the ball hitch, which might be an advantage.

I just don't want another adapter sitting around for $60 that I'll never use. If the other adapter is 2"OD then it would work for most other receiver attachments moto brand or not.

I do see on the product description it says ID 2x2 so I missed that.

However it also says:

Provide a mounting point for:
Impact Implements Pro Blade with Box Ends
Impact Implements Pro Landscape Rake with Tipper Latch
Impact Implements Pro Cultivator
Impact Implements Pro Disc Plow
Impact Implements Pro Middle Buster

Which is why I ordered. They are closed. So best i could get the correct one would be a week. I dont have that much time. Had so much to do this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
this one will work with your ripper: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch Adapter (motoalliance.com)

they sent you this one: IMPACT Pro Sleeve Hitch to 2" Receiver Hitch (motoalliance.com)

way back at this post
you asked the difference between them. The information on their web site is not clear, and not really correct. After making a joke, I suggested:

reading the headings today, and seeing the results, it is clearer. the 2nd one is NOT for their implements but rather for standard hitch things.

So, the question is which did you order?

The now say this:

Features:
Provides a mounting point for all Impact Implement Pro Accessories (excluding the 1-Point Lift System)
Requires a sleeve hitch (not included) installed on garden tractor
Dimensions:
  • Inner Diameter - 2" x 2"
  • Outer Diameter -

Provide a mounting point for:
Impact Implements Pro Blade with Box Ends
Impact Implements Pro Landscape Rake with Tipper Latch
Impact Implements Pro Cultivator
Impact Implements Pro Disc Plow
Impact Implements Pro Middle Buster

The first part is correct. The last bit is totally incorrect. You can achieve it, but you need the double male part.
YEp I just posted this, which i why I am going to demand they pay return shipping. Does crush my weekend plans.

That last bit is why I was confused when I asked a few weeks ago, guess I made the wrong choice, but should have noticed the 2x2 ID part.
 

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Yeah, their web site description is contradictory. I would politely request refunding the shipping both ways. If they declined you could always take it up with your credit card. The adapter clearly doesn't do what they claim, ie work with their attachments.

Or, you could fabricate the double male adapter, and then also be able to pull a trailer when your sleeve hitch is on.
 
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Frogman and Laytex, is it this adapter goes with the ripper? SKU: IP4412_BK

I'm thinking of buying the same thing. I have the sears sleeve hitch on my tractor.

I'm going to get it through amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Frogman and Laytex, is it this adapter goes with the ripper? SKU: IP4412_BK

I'm thinking of buying the same thing. I have the sears sleeve hitch on my tractor.

I'm going to get it through amazon.
Yea thats the one they told me I needed. The one ordered ended in "3".

Thanks for the heads up I just ordered it ad well. I'll just get a label from customer service to send the other back. OR I just keep them both and now have to never worry about and reciever connection not being compatible.

Normally I would just keep it as it will come into play someday but these $60 charges keep pilling up. My bathroom project went from $750 to 3k in the span of 1 hour yesterday after knocking out drywall around the tub. Found the tub is 40s era and doesn't have a lip on any side, drywall was just caulked flush with the tub top, of course it started leaking. Now the thing has to be broken up with a sledge and replaced. House was built in 78, I have no idea how this was installed.

I swear there's a curse on these lands and something is preventing me from breaking ground in this yard.

Waiting on my CC company to call and ask if all these charges are legit to make sure I haven't been compromised.
 

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Those tubs are fine, IF they are maintained, but they usually are not. A tub from the 40's is probably a vintage tub. If you were not planning on replacing it to start it must be in good condition. I had one that was and got someone to remove it for free. All three parties were happy. Me for it being gone. The antique store for making money on the deal. The people who bought it and the vintage toilet for their mid-century restoration project. Don't let them sledgehammer it until you are sure no one wants it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Those tubs are fine, IF they are maintained, but they usually are not. A tub from the 40's is probably a vintage tub. If you were not planning on replacing it to start it must be in good condition. I had one that was and got someone to remove it for free. All three parties were happy. Me for it being gone. The antique store for making money on the deal. The people who bought it and the vintage toilet for their mid-century restoration project. Don't let them sledgehammer it until you are sure no one wants it.
It ain't coming out in one piece. House was framed around it. Well it might come out if I knock down walls just so someone can have the tub.

It's getting destroyed, I don't have the time or resources to wait for someone to attempt to get it out. My plumber is doing it, and replacing with stand fiberglass.

This bathroom has been down for 4 months. I need it operational.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
@Frogmore you're more than welcome to remove if you can get here by Wed.

Then we can work on my tractor together. Or you work I watch and learn rather.
 

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Remember that I already got rid of one. I understand a bathroom being out of commission for months, been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

I hate destroying things, but sometimes that is the only way to get what you want. I hope you enjoy your new bathroom for many years/decades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Remember that I already got rid of one. I understand a bathroom being out of commission for months, been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

I hate destroying things, but sometimes that is the only way to get what you want. I hope you enjoy your new bathroom for many years/decades.
Exactly. It sucks. These ARE the tubs that will last forever. It's either cast iron or porcelain. But without a lip it will always leak. And I have no idea how bad, sub floor could be rotted when we get it out. It has to go for the integrity of everything else.

It really sucks, I thought it was awesome when we moved in cause you don't see them anymore. Turns out it was curse and whoever put it there should be ashamed. It has to be original, the house was built in 78 and the standard 60in fiberglass was set back then, I cant fathom the builder installing it? The original owner cut costs and said "I'll do the bathrooms" during the build?.

Blows my mind, very upset with the situation, and yall know I'm not the handiest so I have to contract this out. My guy is very fair but still more than me rolling up my sleeves.
 

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They still make the porcelain coated cast iron tubs, but they are now very expensive to purchase, move, install. The modern ones have a lip on three edges (typically). So, they work well. The acrylic and fiberglass ones are much less sturdy and much easier to damage, but much cheaper for initial cost.

I got a Vikrell one

But, only for the rarely used bathrooms. Our main bathroom has a porcelain enameled cast iron claw foot tub. It was very expensive, but still looks great 15 years later. It took 4 big guys to move it up the stairs (twice, one of the legs broke off on the first one. I was really glad I let the builder handle that part. I did feel really sorry for the trouble he had with it.)
 
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