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Nicely equipped tractor. I see rear PTO, Flow Control Valve and wheel weights. If it also has a three point hitch, then it doesn't get any better. This tractor would look fantastic after a full restoration.

It appears that some previous owner has added an hour meter and a toggle switch to the dashboard. The exhaust system is rather creative.
 

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Nice find, flow control valve is very handy when tilling. Wish I had one, we manage though. Have fun on your rebuild.
 

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Does the FCV set-up become a 'set-it-and-forget-it' when in use or does it become the travel control when in use. Still foggy on that one.

That one doesn't look pampered, but its straight and well optioned. Congrats on the find.
 

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JoeyB - I'll agree with the others that is a very nice 446 for sure! Just a little wax and some elbow grease and that tractor will look as good as new. I'll also agree with castoff about the rear PTO, Flow Control Valve and wheel weights! Very nice items to have around.
 

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Start tractor.

Move FCV to slowest setting.

Move travel lever to full speed ahead.

Use FCV to make tractor move at desired speed for tilling or snow blowing.

Use FCV to slow tractor down or speed it up.

When finished, move FCV to slowest position.

Move travel lever to neutral.

Move FCV to fastest position.

Use travel lever to operate tractor as one would normally do on a tractor with no FCV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is a photo of the 3-point and hitch adapter. I was pretty happy to see it had the FCV, weights, H-70 tiller ( needs some work), J-44 ( deck is great but spindles pretty much frozen), 3 -point and adapter.

That bad news was:

The carb was severely frozen and corroded. No filter housing on the engine. Who knows what might have made it inside. I have a replacement carb for it.

No PTO clutch. It had the original clutch hub, but I picked up complete EZ-Adjust for it.

There was quite a bit of oil build up on the oil cooler. I don't see any cracks in the tube, but I will find out once it is running.

I have a P218 that I am going to put in this to get the tractor running right away. I like the idea of having and oil filter vs. no oil filter on the BF-MS also.
I have a s et of take out std bore BF-MS pistons that I will try to put in the stock BF-MS. Check out the photo of the no. 1 cylinder. The piston came apart at the edge. Is that from detonation? Once I have the tractor running I will tear down the BF-MS and see how it looks inside.

I originally was only going to clean the tractor up, get the engine running ( I knew about the carb, not the piston) and call it good. Now that I have started to take it apart to really clean it, I figured I might as well paint it.

This is my first Case. I was looking online to find options to repower my 2000 Scotts 2046 and I found out about the Case tractors. Well, I quit looking for an engine for the Scotts right then.



 

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One of the worst things people can do to an Onan is to not use it. Carbon falls off the head and piston. Rust from the exhaust system often finds its way into the cylinder. All this crud ends up at the bottom of the bore. When the engine gets started, the piston rams up against that crap and pushes it into the head. The result is often broken pistons right at this spot.

IMO, that's what happened here and the piston is all pock-marked as a result. It is very important to perform de-carbonizing every 500 hours max because broken rods often result when the carbon takes up all the space between the piston and the head. Let's see what Boomer has to say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh yeah, I forget to mention that it came with a weight bracket and 4 weights.

I appreciate everyones input. Thanks. I probably paid too much for it, ($750.00, considering the engine problems/no pto clutch) but they are hard to come by out here. I figured one in hand was better than a million on e-bay/craigslist in the midwest/northeast.

Castoff. Good info on the FCV.
 

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If you were to part that tractor out on e-bay.......

- PTO and FCV combined kit - $350.00

- 1 pair OEM cast iron wheel weights - $120.00

- J-26 3 pt hitch kit - $350.00 and up

- F-27 sleeve hitch adaptor $100.00 and up

- H-70 tiller - $300.00 and up

- J-44 deck - in need of bearings - $50.00

So far, I'm up to $1220.00 without touching on what the parted out tractor would bring or the parted out Onan.

At $750.00 sir, you got yourself a bargooon. Fully optioned tractors like that one are not common. If you went to a Ingersoll dealer and duplicated what you have, a new Ingy with those options plus deck and tiller would cost you well over ten grand.

Even if you spend $1500.00 more to make this tractor right in every way, you still have a bargain because it will work its butt off for you at least for another 20 years or more. That's works out to about $150.00 per year to have a tractor that will mow your grass, till your garden and if you buy a blade or blower for it , then winter snow removal is in the cards as well. Need to split wood? This tractor will power a splitter. It will drag trees out of the bush and with a chipper/shredder you can turn all the slash into mulch. z

Got a field to cut down a few times per year? Put a 4 foot Hydra Cutter bush hog style mower on the back and keep that tall grass under control.
 

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One of the worst things people can do to an Onan is to not use it. Carbon falls off the head and piston. Rust from the exhaust system often finds its way into the cylinder. All this crud ends up at the bottom of the bore. When the engine gets started, the piston rams up against that crap and pushes it into the head. The result is often broken pistons right at this spot.

IMO, that's what happened here and the piston is all pock-marked as a result. It is very important to perform de-carbonizing every 500 hours max because broken rods often result when the carbon takes up all the space between the piston and the head. Let's see what Boomer has to say.
castoff , and group.
as to the pistons, pock marks.
air cleaner screws coming out. ( i took one apart today, i could see that two screws were replaced)
these tend to be more jagged edges.
these appear to be from oxidation. (crud sitting in the cylinder for a LONG time)
thank you boomer
 

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If it were mine I would go this route instead of rebuilding the Onan. If my Onan ever gives up the ghost it's the direction I'm going to go.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/case-repower-ingersoll.htm

You could get a few hundred bucks for your old Onan block as well as selling your EZ adjust clutch to recoup some of the cost.
 

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You will spend more money installing the Vanguard then you will by rebuilding the Onan. In the end, you will have less torque with the Vanguard but improved fuel economy. The electric clutch will cost you more to maintain over the long haul then the stock EZ clutch will. If you decide to sell the tractor, it will bring more with the Onan than it will with the Vanguard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If it were mine I would go this route instead of rebuilding the Onan. If my Onan ever gives up the ghost it's the direction I'm going to go.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.co...-ingersoll.htm
That is exactly where I found out about the CASE 446s. I saw the CASE info when looking for a replacement engine for the Scotts. And I saw a 446 in the backgorund in one of the episodes of "American Pickers". It caught my eye, being an ex heavy equipment owner ( '69 Michigan/Clark 55 wheel loader, '86 CAT D3B LT pedal steer dozer) I no longer have the loader and dozer, so the 446 will be my little piece of "heavy" equipment.


I figured, first of all, I want it. Second, after everything, I will still be in the ballpark of a new 23hp/23 inch wheel disposable LAWN tractor from a box store. So, I bought it. Then, last week I found '75 446 in about the same shape , without all the options but with a J-46 and a 54 blade, and bought it for less. The PO had put the engine out of his RV generator in it after the original bit it. It is not running. He said the governer broke and the engine over revs. I bought it figuring it would be a parts tractor for the '74, but now I want to rebuild it also. Now I have two rebuilds to go and I haven't heard either one run yet. They sure will sound good the day I start each of them up. Both came up due to WTB ads I placed on craigslist.

And thanks everyone for the input on the $$ spent on the machine. What you guys pointed out is what I told myself when I bought it. ( All of that info I learned from you guys in previous posts on the forum)


For new guys like me this forum is the difference between getting these tractors back into operating condition or just sitting and rusting.
 

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In checking out your pictures, your going to have a great rebuild. The sheetmetal appears to be in great shape. I also see that you have caught the fever, I'm sorry to say there is no cure. Good luck with them both.
 

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If it were mine I would go this route instead of rebuilding the Onan. If my Onan ever gives up the ghost it's the direction I'm going to go.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/case-repower-ingersoll.htm

You could get a few hundred bucks for your old Onan block as well as selling your EZ adjust clutch to recoup some of the cost.
joey.
the shim adjust clutch CAN still be used with jims kit. (just let him know)
as to the used onans, i never pay over 100.00 for them.
thank you boomer
 
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