Picked up a '78 212 in what I would call decent shape. Wanted to start a thread and document the progress as it goes forward. Here she sits after a good pressure wash and before any work is performed. 1st up, carburetor and air filter housing are ordered. Engine runs but issues with the float necessitated replacement. Once installed and tuned the next up will be deck, fender/footrest pan and most likely driver console removal. My goal on this one is to use/repair as many original parts as possible since the unit is fairly complete as it sits.
That one looks to be eminently saveable. Surface rust, and not that much of it. They hydraulic lift is good for the mower deck, snowblower, and rear tiller, should you get one. These tractors are tanks. Take care of it, and it'll last forever.
The hydraulic lift was the deciding factor in me taking a chance on this one vs. another one. Both had limited rust, this one the deck needs more work but may not even come into play. It will be the last piece of the puzzle I tackle merely because I really have no need for another "mower".
Yeah, that was why I sold my 216..... Took to long to mow with it. (3 acres taking 6 to 8 hours.....) and it beat the crap out of me while doing so. My yard is kinda rough. Replaced it with a gravely GMT 9000, with a 72 inch deck. My mowing time dropped to about 2 and a half hours.... Sold all the Gravely stuff I had, and replaced it with an x485. About thee hours to mow the yard, but, it is a much more comfortable and reliable tractor. I wanted hydraulics, power steering, and a hydrostatic trans. I would love a bigger deck, but, gotta get into the 2xxx series tractors for anything bigger than 62".... More money than I wanna spend. My wife has a 210 that she uses for gardening, and hauling stuff around the yard. She loves that little tractor.
This one will.most likely be used for light duty stuff. A yard toter or to pull a sweeper. I've got an x570 with 30 hours on it to mow and a 445 for anything heavy. Once this one is done I will be looking for a 100 series (as in 110) not a box store model, and most likely a 318. These just give me something to do in my down time, I find it relaxing. Here is my 445 I'm almost done with.
I'm pretty sure this one will not be. I still have a few more things on the 445 I want to finish up but this one came along and I couldn't pass it up. I did however already pull the deck so I could get an idea of how bad the bearings are. Surprisingly I believe I will only need bearings and one spindle as it appears one of the corners is broke. They all spin freely now but needed a little persuasion. Same with the tensioner and idler pulley. Those will wait until I see what is put into the unit 1st. I was impressed at how easy the deck comes off and goes on. I love the no tools needed approach.
Knowing what I have in this unit and seeing what the hydraulic option is bringing- only 1 listed on Ebay currently, I feel pretty good about the purchase.
Cool machine and hydraulic lift too, I wish my 214 had that feature!
Here is my 214 just for the sake of mentioning it, not trying to hyjack your thread. The 200 series are really solid machines and pretty simple to work on. Keep your update photos coming as you go along! 👍
Cool machine and hydraulic lift too, I wish my 214 had that feature!
Here is my 214 just for the sake of mentioning it, not trying to hyjack your thread. The 200 series are really solid machines and pretty simple to work on. Keep your update photos coming as you go along! 👍
Almost 600 bucks for the hydraulic lift stuff??? Holy smokes........ I sold a 214 with a bad trans and hydraulics for 250 bucks..... (but, that's been more that couple years ago...... )
When you are cleaning stuff with solvents if you get a pair of thicker gloves they won't swell up like the nitrile box gloves. I have a couple pair that look like women's dish washing gloves and they have saved me hundreds of pairs of thin gloves.
I have a pair of dishwashing gloves I use for my parts washer. Mineral spirits will dry out your hands right quick. They fit tight enough that I can actually where them while working, however, they are NOT tight around the arms, gravity works, and they like to collect odd and strange stuff......
@sparklie , Did you ever try the Nova ll transistorized module on any of your 200 series? I have one ordered and from everything I read it should work.
No I try to keep it as it came from the factory as I can---Are you talking of the one that takes the place of the points? the 200 series have a divorced coil and so it wont work on them. I checked in to it one time and found out this---to use this module it would have to have the coil under the flywheel or that type of coil.
I'm following your thread. I'd like to see what you end up doing with the 212 as I used to have one. I didn't restore it, but I made it more functional for duties other than mowing.
When I first got it.
I will document as I go. Once I get through all the little trivial stuff with the engine, I will be disassembling for restoration. Frame and all will be prepped for paint along with a possible motor refresh. I'm not interested in selling or even putting these units into any hard work. Just a collection of fine machines that may get handed down over time.
I put a Kirk Engines points saver (called something else now....) on my 200 series tractors. Still uses the points, but, eliminates the condenser. I get a MUCH better spark with this system. I went from a weak, yellowish spark, to a FAT blue spark that SNAPPED. The 210 starts at the first bump of the key, regardless of how long it has been sitting. I love 'em.
Been a while since I posted about anything going on with the 212. Today I was able to get out back and tinker a little with it. Changed the plug, coil and condensor (was wired into the positive side of the coil which according to the TM was wrong). Filed the points as they looked new and checked gap. Hooked up the jump pack as I don't have a bettery yet and after a few tries and fuel finally filling the bowl of the new carb, she fired and ran (not great though). Looked into an issue with the governor spring not having any affect on rpms and corrected the issue. Engine runs but does smoke at higher RPMs. I plan on changing the oil as it appears old, dirty and just plain worn out (hoping this may help the smoking- but doubtful). New tires ordered as 3 will not hold air for more than 5 minutes and are completely dry rotted. All forward gears and reverse work as they should, variator needs adjustment and I believe a tension spring, brakes need adjustment and clutch needs adjustment. Best news of the day, the hydraulic lift work flawlessly with no leaks. Next up, battery install and tire replacement so I can get this thing inside and begin the teardown. Found this deck and have been trying to close the deal however it comes with 3 disassembled units and much more hassle than I want to deal with. More to come later..............
Getting down to the grunge, tires ordered for the front and back. Two issues revealed while inspecting after pulling the foot/fender pan. Return spring on brake is wrong, wrong, wrong. And the tension spring for the variator is broke. Both items ordered. Next up, a week of spraying with degreaser then a few hours with a pressure washer. I have decided I will be working on this one from the rear to the front.
Did a little (okay a lot) of wire wheel work on one front wheel. Primed and ready for paint tomorrow after some wet sanding. I'm trying to save these wheels which I believe are original from '78. New bearings ordered and will be installed after paint but before tires. Second wheel should be cleaned and primed before days end hopefully. Pics of front and back of wheel.
Front tires arrived and have been installed on the wheels. Still waiting for the bearings to arrive. Rear tires have arrived however I am still not ready with the wheels to complete the install. Will be using tubes on the rears as I had to do a little welding to repair some issues on one wheel. Hopefully the clean, grind and paint will still look okay without having to replace the wheel.
Another update, spent some time degreasing and pressure washing. Looks like everything came pretty clean. Changing the rear diff gear oil will be next before removing and prepping some items for paint.
The hydraulic option was the only reason I picked this one up. What is even better is although I will overhaul the Kohler, the hydraulics need zero work. It works like a charm.
Just need to finish up the rear wheels and install the front bearings (if they ever arrive). I was hoping to get them all on by the weekend so I can get this thing off jackstands, off my pad out back, and inside before the weather changes.
I think the dash will receive a little attention. This one looks like it spent quite a few years outside in the elements. The headlight switch doesn't even budge.
Dave, A few years back, I did the panel on my 317 and I'm quite happy with how it came out! Bob
Process: Wash with soap & water, then "CRC Brakleen". Spray 1 coat Rustoleum Universal Satin Black (for plastic). Dip toothpick into bottle of Testor's model paint and place drop of paint onto cardboard. Dip CLEAN pencil eraser into "puddle" and dab a THIN coat onto panel letters/symbols. Use vertical dabbing motion rather than sweeping motions, like brushing. "Awe ****" can be removed with Brakleen while paint is wet. I found 2 thin coats better. A coat of clear...and done!
Dave, A few years back, I did the panel on my 317 and I'm quite happy with how it came out! Bob
Process: Wash with soap & water, then "CRC Brakleen". Spray 1 coat Rustoleum Universal Satin Black (for plastic). Dip toothpick into bottle of Testor's model paint and place drop of paint onto cardboard. Dip CLEAN pencil eraser into "puddle" and dab a THIN coat onto panel letters/symbols. Use vertical dabbing motion rather than sweeping motions, like brushing. "Awe ****" can be removed with Brakleen while paint is wet. I found 2 thin coats better. A coat of clear...and done!
Well, that time has come when the weather will shift and work will need to come inside. Took the 212 and put the front tires on. The rears are temps as I needed to order a couple good wheels before putting the new ones on. The old ones were beyond repair once ground down and rust removed. I used an old set of 24x12x12s I had laying out back with some new tubes as a way to make mobile. Moving was made easy once I got it off the jack stands. I relied on the X570 and the winch powered sleeve hitch as my tow rig. Hooked right into the rear hitch plate on the 212 and allowed for turning and even backing into the winter home. Thankfully I was able to spray some rust convertor on the back frame and drive train. Next I will continue to remove the operators station and tidy that up a bit.
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