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That one looks to be eminently saveable. Surface rust, and not that much of it. They hydraulic lift is good for the mower deck, snowblower, and rear tiller, should you get one. :D These tractors are tanks. Take care of it, and it'll last forever. :D
 

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Yeah, that was why I sold my 216..... Took to long to mow with it. (3 acres taking 6 to 8 hours.....) and it beat the crap out of me while doing so. My yard is kinda rough. :D Replaced it with a gravely GMT 9000, with a 72 inch deck. My mowing time dropped to about 2 and a half hours.... Sold all the Gravely stuff I had, and replaced it with an x485. About thee hours to mow the yard, but, it is a much more comfortable and reliable tractor. I wanted hydraulics, power steering, and a hydrostatic trans. I would love a bigger deck, but, gotta get into the 2xxx series tractors for anything bigger than 62".... More money than I wanna spend. :D My wife has a 210 that she uses for gardening, and hauling stuff around the yard. :D She loves that little tractor.
 

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Almost 600 bucks for the hydraulic lift stuff??? Holy smokes........ I sold a 214 with a bad trans and hydraulics for 250 bucks..... (but, that's been more that couple years ago...... :D)
 

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Mine were individually packed in a bag from Hazard Fraught tools.
Hazard Fraught? :D I like it.

I have a pair of dishwashing gloves I use for my parts washer. Mineral spirits will dry out your hands right quick. They fit tight enough that I can actually where them while working, however, they are NOT tight around the arms, gravity works, and they like to collect odd and strange stuff......
 

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I put a Kirk Engines points saver (called something else now....) on my 200 series tractors. Still uses the points, but, eliminates the condenser. I get a MUCH better spark with this system. I went from a weak, yellowish spark, to a FAT blue spark that SNAPPED. :) The 210 starts at the first bump of the key, regardless of how long it has been sitting. I love 'em.
 

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But it it running fine while using it under a load it should be in time --right?
so would it need rechecked when i put in the new condenser kit?
The way the transdensor works, is it fires the coil is soon as the points break the circuit. At the low load values the transdenser operates at, the circuit opens a bit sooner, so, at least checking it is a good idea. :)
 

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I have a harbor freight pressure feed sand blaster, and it has handled everything I have asked of it. Not expensive, doesn't take up much room, but HIGHLY effective. :D Just needs a good air source. (the smaller your compressor, the more patience you need to use it.....) I have a stand-in-the-corner compressor, I think it is a 5 horse, 110 volt unit, with about an 80 gallon tank. It works ok for the job, but, bigger would most certainly be better.... I also have a 5 horse 220 single phase compressor, industrial grade..... with a 250 gallon tank, and I suspect it would run it without issue. However, I don't have 220 available out in the barn, and that one is just too big to have in the garage. :D
 

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I finally got around to doing a little work on the dash panel. Only before pic I have it when the panel was still in place. I still have a coat or two of matte clear to put on but overall the process was pretty straight forward and simple.
1st step: Clean panel extremely well with brake cleaner.
2nd step: 2-3 extremely light coats of Rustoleum 2x flat black spray (good for plastic) along with using a Scotchbrite pad (fine) between coats.
3rd step: Using Testors model paint (silver) and a foam brush paint the raised lettering. In this step I poured small amounts of paint onto cardboard then used 1 side of the brush and swashed back and forth until the foam was penetrated with paint without dripping. Small strokes all going the same direction helped with coverage.
4th Step: 2-3 coats of Rustoleum 2x Clearcoat. No scuffing between coats only waiting for the paint to flash between coats.
Let dry for 48 hours to completely cure.
View attachment 2537228
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View attachment 2537226
That turned out REALLY nice. That could pass for new. :D
 

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The ceramic coating is mostly to help retain heat in the exhaust. It's not so much about 'making it pretty'. Being ceramic, it DOES last a long time though. :D I like the coating batter than the wrap, as I have had issues with the wrap holding moisture against the header tubes, and they then rust out...... (unless you drive it regularly. running the engine dries 'em out right quick.)
 

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Being an auto tech i've seen all kinds of heat shield designs. One of the simplest and least ugly (although not as effective as header wrap) is just a second layer of metal held off the muffler with a small air gap. I guess you would call it a radiant barrier? Anyway, if the muffler is a round case and fairly small all you really need to do is cut a pipe larger than that in half or so so the radius matches the muffler, just larger, then attach it maybe 1/4" off the muffler body in the direction you're trying to shield. Could be made to be barely noticeable if one cared.

I would love to try some 'real' ceramic exhaust coatings but i'm very dubious of anything that claims it doesn't need to be 'fired' to a high temp like real ceramics. If it doesn't need to be baked up to at least 700f it would seem to me to just be fancy paint with the word ceramic in the name.

Anyway, header wrap will do the job just fine and makes perfect sense for the application!
It's on the exhaust. :) Run the engine for a few minutes, and it does indeed get baked.
 
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