Hazard Fraught? I like it.Mine were individually packed in a bag from Hazard Fraught tools.
Please list info. on what you used--and how it is wired--sound like something that would work --for a good replacement.
Yep, that's the place. It's "Transdenser II" now. It's VERY easy to hook up, think it took me about ten minutes, then, reset timing, and you are done.A lot of Cub guys are very familiar with Kirk Engines Performance parts:
Kirk Engines, Inc. >> Garden Tractor Performance Parts
Basically, you set the timing by adjusting the points. Find the timing mark on the flywheel, (good luck with that....) and adjust the points so the light comes on as close to when the mark is centered in the hole as you can.You lost me at reset the timing---Do I also need to float the 4th gear in the transaxel?
The way the transdensor works, is it fires the coil is soon as the points break the circuit. At the low load values the transdenser operates at, the circuit opens a bit sooner, so, at least checking it is a good idea.But it it running fine while using it under a load it should be in time --right?
so would it need rechecked when i put in the new condenser kit?
That turned out REALLY nice. That could pass for new.I finally got around to doing a little work on the dash panel. Only before pic I have it when the panel was still in place. I still have a coat or two of matte clear to put on but overall the process was pretty straight forward and simple.
1st step: Clean panel extremely well with brake cleaner.
2nd step: 2-3 extremely light coats of Rustoleum 2x flat black spray (good for plastic) along with using a Scotchbrite pad (fine) between coats.
3rd step: Using Testors model paint (silver) and a foam brush paint the raised lettering. In this step I poured small amounts of paint onto cardboard then used 1 side of the brush and swashed back and forth until the foam was penetrated with paint without dripping. Small strokes all going the same direction helped with coverage.
4th Step: 2-3 coats of Rustoleum 2x Clearcoat. No scuffing between coats only waiting for the paint to flash between coats.
Let dry for 48 hours to completely cure.
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It's on the exhaust. Run the engine for a few minutes, and it does indeed get baked.Being an auto tech i've seen all kinds of heat shield designs. One of the simplest and least ugly (although not as effective as header wrap) is just a second layer of metal held off the muffler with a small air gap. I guess you would call it a radiant barrier? Anyway, if the muffler is a round case and fairly small all you really need to do is cut a pipe larger than that in half or so so the radius matches the muffler, just larger, then attach it maybe 1/4" off the muffler body in the direction you're trying to shield. Could be made to be barely noticeable if one cared.
I would love to try some 'real' ceramic exhaust coatings but i'm very dubious of anything that claims it doesn't need to be 'fired' to a high temp like real ceramics. If it doesn't need to be baked up to at least 700f it would seem to me to just be fancy paint with the word ceramic in the name.
Anyway, header wrap will do the job just fine and makes perfect sense for the application!