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This one will.most likely be used for light duty stuff. A yard toter or to pull a sweeper. I've got an x570 with 30 hours on it to mow and a 445 for anything heavy. Once this one is done I will be looking for a 100 series (as in 110) not a box store model, and most likely a 318. These just give me something to do in my down time, I find it relaxing. Here is my 445 I'm almost done with. View attachment 2527711
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why I was asking about the 200 series was because I have 5 of them--210 -2x212's 214 and a 216--
99% of all parts and panels will interchange on these 200 series---Only thing is some parts on the 216's engine will not interchange--I know the head has a extra bolt on them-- I enjoy working on them ---also I have a tiller on the 216 and a mower on 2x 212's i work them hard and they just keep on keeping on. you got that 445 looking great.
 

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You don't by any chance happen to have a belt shield for the 47 inch deck? Not sure I will actually need anything immediately but it is one item that after extensive research I can not find. I know a lot of people remove them and leave them off, all the while over the years the deck rots out and there is no use for the cover anymore.
Yes I do have a 47 deck that has one on it and I do run a shield on mine that I use. ---I was showing the brother in law- the extra 39 and 47 mower decks with shields I have--and had them put up in the barn where it was dry for many years and had no idea what they looked like-- I will need to take some pictures of them and load them so I can look at them any time---- and look at them again--- I don't think I will be needing them--If I remember the deck on one of them has several rusted out spots that could be fixed if needed---I just didn't have a need to look very close. (y)
 

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Great, thanks for the reply. Let me know what your plans are as I may be interested. Of course shield only. The price to ship an entire deck would negate the cost of the unit. The shield isn't all that heavy and should fit inside a cut down flat pack pretty good. You may be able to part the rusted one out as the spindles alone are fairly pricey.
Ok I will check them out ---Let me know when you are going to start on the deck---
 

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I have a 212 with FEL. It uses a hydraulic pump driven by the primary PTO. Is it possible to retrofit the pulley on the other side of the engine (as this one is)? If so can you direct me to information about it?
So your PTO is bigger than the one on the other side as this one that just drives a small lift as the front blade.. and your system has a clutch on the PTO -----prob. would be some problems--i have never seen a FIL using the other side. Good luck.
 

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@sparklie , Did you ever try the Nova ll transistorized module on any of your 200 series? I have one ordered and from everything I read it should work.
No I try to keep it as it came from the factory as I can---Are you talking of the one that takes the place of the points? the 200 series have a divorced coil and so it wont work on them. I checked in to it one time and found out this---to use this module it would have to have the coil under the flywheel or that type of coil.
 

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I put a Kirk Engines points saver (called something else now....) on my 200 series tractors. Still uses the points, but, eliminates the condenser. I get a MUCH better spark with this system. I went from a weak, yellowish spark, to a FAT blue spark that SNAPPED. :) The 210 starts at the first bump of the key, regardless of how long it has been sitting. I love 'em.
Please list info. on what you used--and how it is wired--sound like something that would work --for a good replacement.
 

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I ordered the kit. I have a new wiring "harness" for the key switch, and I'll clean up all the connections. Then we will see if things work correctly. It's been a year since I was able to get it started. Random spark, plenty of fuel. It actually caught fire from too much fuel and no spark last year. It sparked but didn't start. I had to throw snow on the muffler to put it out.
It sounds like you got fire--since it caught fire.---Might be a problem with too much fuel.---You said plenty of fuel--could be too much?----I know of the condenser kits--- if it works for you it is a good thing.
 

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Basically, you set the timing by adjusting the points. Find the timing mark on the flywheel, (good luck with that....) and adjust the points so the light comes on as close to when the mark is centered in the hole as you can.
But it it running fine while using it under a load it should be in time --right?
so would it need rechecked when i put in the new condenser kit?
 

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I decided to start in the rear and go forward. Wanted to look into the brakes and adjust (needed return spring installed in its proper location), variator needed adjustment and spring (original broke and no longer attached), service the rear diff and check operation on the rear rock shaft (thankfully that is all good to go). The engine will be coming out for a refresh as it smokes pretty good. All the deck spindles, idlers and tensioner appear to be free (after a little work) so I will remove them then start to strip the deck to get ready for paint. This unit will probably only pull a cart or something light (maybe give a shot at mowing occasionally) but really just more so an addition to my little group.
you got that tractor looking great--I know it will be right.
 

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Little sneak peek, should have placed back on the frame tomorrow hopefully. I did cut out an extra hole for an hour meter that should be here Sunday. I would love to button up the body and cover up for the summer while I'm going through the engine. Waiting on the seat and operators presence switch to arrive. View attachment 2545037
You do great work finishing them tractors up--Looks great---- and I'm unanimous in this
 

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I also don't plan on selling any of my units. I realized a while back if I counted the $ going in I would probably cringe, so I order a little here and there and try not to dwell on the cost. Regardless I have lost more and spent more money on fishing over the years that this is probably saving me money. 😁😉
What u going to do about the broken handle on the belt adjustment that is sticking out the front? Those things are easy to get bumped or just break in using them. I have seen where some owners weld a cross tee handle on them--- Just asking.
 

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Alrighty then, she is running. I had to swap the wires on the amp gauge as they were reading incorrectly and was able to finish up on the hours gauge wiring. After 5 hours I will retorque the head bolts and most likely adjust the valves once again while I'm at it. All that's missing at this point is replacing/installing both drive belts and the hydraulic pump belt then it will be on to chronicle the mower deck overhaul (I'm not excited about this one). It took a bit to get fuel flowing because everything was empty but the ignition worked flawlessly and the governor appears to be adjusted correctly. View attachment 2547664
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Wow that tractor is fire---It is a great looking tractor. A+ ---- I like the 212's I have 2 of them--I do work them one with the mower and one with a tiller on it. Great job there---makes me think about going through mine. (y)
 

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Primary and secondary drive belts have arrived. I look to have these installed this weekend and the variator adjusted correctly. Then I've got about 4 hours of run time before retorqueing the head and adjusting the valves one final time. View attachment 2548356
Now that is the correct belts----and I must say WOW--And I'm unanimous in this
 
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