The garden tractor association I belong to has a lot of Cub guys in it and they all have replaced the condensors in their machines with these.I have been having problem with my K341 in my 300JD starting hard or not starting. I was considering getting one of those kits to boost the spark.
Now you're coming around there!!! 🚜🚜🚜🚜🚜🚜Funny. I was looking at my 3240 grille earlier when I checked my wellhouse temp thinking I needed to do the same--straighten and paint. I like to do things that make me smile when I look at it so painting it green would be my choice if that's what I thought looked good.
Yes, you'll impact my stock returns from the JD Green paint company! 😈Went and gave the fender deck a good look and I am thinking a good strip and recoat will be in the works also. I have convinced myself that black bed liner would be beneficial on the underside as it appears most of the ",rust" has formed due to scratches in the original green. Can anyone convince me otherwise as to why I should just shoot it all green?
Looking real nice!Decals came in for the hood. Period specific and decent quality. OE Deere was no longer available so I relied on Hapco parts to supply these. They are not as thick as some other JD product decals but the overall look is just fine with me. I do believe I will be applying plenty of sealant and wax as a protective coating and aid for adhesion. Headlamp lens in place (I still need to paint the upper and lower black stripe to blend in with the decal) and still waiting on the hinges. This one is almost ready to go on the shelf to make room for the rear fender deck next. View attachment 2541615
View attachment 2541614
View attachment 2541613
You get a better shine, I'll sacrifice some of the stock for those results!!Underside of the rear fender is complete. Needed to do a little straightening because apparently the previous owner(s) didn't know how to stop without using the fenders as a guide. I decided green all around would be used for 2 reasons- 1. The inside of the wheel wells would be visible at certain angles. 2. I was very concerned that I would affect @PA318Guy and his stock in JD green paint. View attachment 2542075
View attachment 2542076
Those gearshift covers are sometimes a pain, nice job tracking things down Dave!To my surprise I came home to a few more items that were a must because the original was either missing or in such bad shape that refurbing was out of the question. These were located in different states from Oregon to Pennsylvania.
1. PTO knob- M81691
2. Throttle handle- M47587
3. Gear shift knob- AM35559
4. Gear shift panel- M80681
5. LED headlights- Purchased through Marketplace from a reputable source- Utica Kim.
View attachment 2542349
Looks very nice Dave, hope that the bugs didn't see that bright green landing zone!Final coat applied on the fender. With any luck the bugs will remain at bay for another 30 minutes or so. I do think a polishing compound will be needed to eliminate any overspray pattern that may be evident once dry. I think I may have miminized as much as possible but with the sun out it was hard to see for sure. Either way, this piece is about a wrap. I also did a little mock up with the hood, side cover and grill as I was moving some stuff around in the shed. Still waiting on the hood hinges 🤦 View attachment 2543478
View attachment 2543477
Really enjoying seeing you take it apart and refurb this Dave, you're doing a great job and it's going to look immaculate when you are done!More items finally received. Some of this refurb has been a little challenging trying to locate some of the NOS still laying around on shelves throughout the country. Hartville Harware in Hartville, OH. has been a great go to for many items. I figured I would at least chronicle some of the OE numbers for anyone battling the same issues in the future or just anyone that may need an item here or there to complete their unit.
Taillight wiring harness- AM35469
PTO and Nuetral Safety Switches (AM36443)
Mower Deck/Rear Lift Adjustment Knob (M41001)
Grill Emblem (M84353)
Emergency Brake Knob (M40723)
Ignition Switch Decal (M94069)
Variator Tension Spring (M45274)
Brake Return Spring (M87268)
Some of these item numbers are not what is listed in the parts manual but are the correct numbers that have superceded the original part numbers. View attachment 2544652
I also had the time to complete the left side of the operators station along with removal of the hydraulic valve, clean and reinstall. Little props given to my local Dealer
View attachment 2544653
View attachment 2544654
And finally the hydraulic pump, disassembled, cleaned, resealed and ready for action.
View attachment 2544656
View attachment 2544655
My 212 had the electric lift when I first got it. It wasn't very strong and blew out when I tried to lift the snowblower full of ice/snow one year. For the time I had it though it was nice for mowing as it held height very well when it stopped. But I changed it over to manual lift once the motor blew out.Honestly I have no idea of preference between the 200, 208, 212, 214 or 216. The only big difference between all is the HP rating from 8hp-16hp.
I do know the hydraulic option that my unit has is an option that is the most desirable and difficult to find. There is also an electric lift option that was available but I don't hear much about it.
Nah, you don't need those!
I don't believe I've ever seen one so clean before, nice work on that Dave!I am finally at a stand still, waiting on the fuel pump and muffler. Once they are in place I believe I'm ready to set this thing back in place. I still need to tidy up a little wiring, install the PTO controls and drive sheave along with hooking up the throttle cable, choke cable and fuel line, then give it a go and see if everything went as planned. Fingers crossed, 1st small engine I've ever torn completely down. On another note. I wish the tin work would have had less pitting over the years but what's a guy supposed to do? View attachment 2547046
View attachment 2547045
View attachment 2547047
View attachment 2547044
View attachment 2547043
That would ruin my troubleshooting regimen.
Good idea!When I pulled the engine I removed PTO control and drive sheave before I removed the engine from the frame. I did this in hopes that it would aid by lessening the weight and making it easier to lift out. Albeit it did do what I expected but placing the engine back in with the use of a hoist, weight wouldn't be an issue. Therefore I believe it would be easier to complete the task now than fight the frame later. Time will tell when I get ready to install this weekend. Still waiting on a bushing for one of the lower pulleys but shouldn't be a bother to install while in the unit. View attachment 2547489
View attachment 2547487
View attachment 2547488
View attachment 2547486