Primer

I use only XXXX brand. Anyone that uses anything else doesn't know a thing !

diesel_nut said:

I use only XXXX brand. Anyone that uses anything else doesn't know a thing !

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Not sure about your reply diesel_nut..:fing20:

Joke. I was referring to the OP's referring to not starting a flame war. Guess I should have put a big :sidelaugh on it

Mar-hyde single staqe self-etching primer. Single stage requires no activator so you'll have a long cup life. Should be about $55 per gal, you'll need the gallon so don't waste time and money buying a quart.

NO RATTLE CAN.

Let's grow up and get off the "flame war" BS!

Scott

Grey primer.

Laquer primers WILL NOT stick to and seal bare metals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So don't screw yourself.

Scott

I use a metal prep prior to priming and use a 2 part epoxy primer. The metal prep has all the benefits of a wash/etching primer with much better durability from the epoxy. PPG DP epoxy is excellent and expensive, you can buy the shop brand (Omni) for around a third the price. YMMV

Thanks for the info guys. I want something that is extremely durable. I'll check into both of the products mentioned. Is there any additive that can be used with Cub Cadet paint that gives it the toughness and durability of Imron and the like?

Jamie

8481Boy said:

Thanks for the info guys. I want something that is extremely durable. I'll check into both of the products mentioned. Is there any additive that can be used with Cub Cadet paint that gives it the toughness and durability of Imron and the like?

Jamie

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Then take Chevele's advise and go two-part, just be aware of cup life. Make sure you have enough parts preped to use what you mix up or waste will be your middle name.

Scott

Sounds good Murphycc. Does anybody have the info on the CC implement paint color code?

Jamie

8481Boy said:

Thanks for the info guys. I want something that is extremely durable. I'll check into both of the products mentioned. Is there any additive that can be used with Cub Cadet paint that gives it the toughness and durability of Imron and the like?

Jamie

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The Acrylic Urethanes have similar durability and better UV protection than the Imron's. Again, you can use PPG shop brand Omni AU. They can mix the Federal Yellow and Cadet White at the paint shop. And if you need to extend the cup life on the primer, get mixing cups with lids and put the extra in the fridge for a day (probably about as long as it will go) The lower temp retards the chemical reaction between the primer & catalyst. Just don't let anyone mistake it for chocolate milk!:fing20: Finally, yellow is crap for coverage, so plan on an extra coat (or 2).

Thanks for the advice. How well does the red cover, and, can it be mixed at the shop also?

You can always have it powder coated.

Scott

8481Boy said:

Thanks for the advice. How well does the red cover, and, can it be mixed at the shop also?

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A shop can mix any color that you bring them. If you research the number they should be able to cross reference them.

Check out this site for more info http://www.ihcubcadet.com/BobsPage/cubpaint.htm:fing32:

Thanks Guys. I'll get going on this pretty soon.

murphycc said:

You can always have it powder coated.

Scott

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Has anyone done this? Had their deck powder coated - I have kicked the idea around and wondered how durable it is.

Aren't decks powder coated from the factory like most everything else on lawn/garden equip? There's probably much more durable and $$$ powder coat jobs available, but factory sure isn't super durable.

Joel

From what I've heard from paint shops that do both liquid spray and powder coating, powder coating is just a different way of applying what is basically the same pigments as in liquid paints. You can buy a wide array of different quality and different finish powders just as you can with paint, and some paints will hold up better than some powder coats and vice versa.