You mention water and fuel. How does that tell you if there is any ethanol in the fuel?
The tube has graduation marks on it and where the water & fuel meet, the graduation marks will tell you how much (if any) ethanol is present. :tango_face_smile:OK, I got it. I thought that it would somehow just tell you if there was ethanol in the fuel. You have to add water yourself to see if any gets absorbed into the fuel, and if so, it has ethanol in it.
Being made more recently "compatible" with ethanol doesn't solve the problem or do much to improve the situation. These simply aren't old enough to start showing symptoms.Only if the carb was designed before they started adding ethanol to gasoline. Once the gasoline companies started adding ethanol to the fuel the vehicle and equipment manufacturers changed the materials in the fuel systems they designed so that they would be compatible with gasoline with 10% ethanol in it.
Yeah, these fuel testers are for checking a fuel sample directly from the bottom of the fuel tank on the aircraft to look for water and sediment.This tester is a simple plastic test tube with etched marks to indicate fuel & water level. I bought mine for 10 bucks at our community airport. I guess pilots use them? This is the one I have but there are several out there. I chose this one because it was a short drive away. The yellow parts are pilot specific. Hope this helps? :tango_face_smile:
Then why do cars not have the same problems? Cars have been running the same 10% ethanol for thousands of more hours/cycles than these small engines and their fuel lines are not getting brittle and cracking. Your example of the MTD snow blower is of a Chinese made piece of junk. So that's an example of "you get what you pay for". My John Deere X500 is over 10 years old now and has never had a single problem with its fuel system and I've always run "Regular" gasoline, which around here means 87 octane with 10% ethanol.Being made more recently "compatible" with ethanol doesn't solve the problem or do much to improve the situation. These simply aren't old enough to start showing symptoms.
I have seen many that are already. Have a MTD chinese snowblower with Huayi Carb here now that is a newer ethanol friendly one that had to have a new needle and or seat or carb for failure to shut off and I had one other earlier this month. It is the fuel, not the materials.
The old 2 cycle stuff used to go 8-10+ years before the lines would be brittle and snap off. Now they do it in 2-3.
Tygon is better, but no savior. I mean REAL Tygon too. If it is not printed Tygon every 8-10 inches IT IS NOT Tygon.
Even Tygon only gives you about double or a little over with ethanol fuel.
You can get the blue 100% nitro methan stuff but last I saw was 4.95 a foot and not stocked anywhere locally. It is probably much better.
Must be time for another ethanol hater meeting.Am I the only person that finds it entertaining that any time there is a fuel thread in this forum, the discussion almost instantly turns to ethanol regardless of the original posters question? You see a thread mentioning gasoline, and instantly know it's turned into an ethanol debate. Dunno...
For the record, I run E0 because it's readily available where I live and I do store gasoline for extended periods. However I've been known to switch to E10 during the summer when I go through gas quicker.
Many people consider seafoam enough for a stabilizer since it says "stabilizes fuel" on bottle. It is poor at it at best.I need to add a few things. My changes-additions are in bold print
Must be time for another ethanol hater meeting.
I've been running E10 gas for 15 to 16 years with no fuel related problems. The components that makes your fuel will separate with or without ethanol in the fuel. 2 Cycle fuel is a good example. Leave your 2 cycle gas sit for 3-4 weeks and pour some out. You will get a few straight gas before you get oil gas mixture your 2 cycle engine needs. How do you fix that issue? Go to gas station and get a fresh gas oil mixture???? Shake the fuel container???? The way I solve this problem is shake my 2 cycle fuel container. I even shake my 2 cycle machine before I start it. Ethanol is the heaviest fuel component in your gas. It will go to the bottom of your fuel system or storage container. I shut the fuel off in all my small engines that have a fuel shut off and let them run dry. I will shake my tractor some to help mix the fuel. I will shake my any fuel container I'm using.
Fuel storage is area that small engine owners are lax on. All small engine manufactures say to not to use gas that is over 30 days old. Any gas that is over 30 days old is added to my pickup truck. They all say to use a fuel stabilizer in your fuel. FYI-seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer.....it is a fuel cleaner/additive. Fuel system cleaning additives have a tendency to separate and turn acidic, causing damage to fuel system components.
How you store your fuel is important too. I look for ways to reduce the moisture in my fuel. My shop floor where I store my fuel is cold and damp. The dampness is a way to attract water. All my fuel container(s) has a piece of wood between the floor and fuel container.
My oldest garden tractor is an 1964 IH Cub Cadet 100. My newest garden tractor-lawn mower is an 1996 Simplicity Landlord. It has 1400 hours on it. The engine has never been work on.
Agree, I "swirl " my gas can before dispensing as well. Agree with everything you wrote.My oldest garden tractor is an 1964 IH Cub Cadet 100. My newest garden tractor-lawn mower is an 1996 Simplicity Landlord. It has 1400 hours on it. The engine has never been work on.
seafoam also claims to be a cleaner too. I'm concern that the "cleaning additives in seafoam" will turn acidic, causing damage to fuel system components.Many people consider seafoam enough for a stabilizer since it says "stabilizes fuel" on bottle. It is poor at it at best.
Use a dedicated stabilizer only product like stabil and use generously like 1 oz per gallon NOT 1 for every 2.5 like it currently states.
This is from Kohler FAQs:Do you have any reference that states the cleaners in Seafoam will turn acidic over time?
Plow days for me are good place to try different things with fuel being one of them. I took 2 blends (5 gallon containers) to a plow day. One was gas straight from the pump and the other was gas with the recommended amount of sea foam in it. Both containers were filled at the same time.by Kohler https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/faqs (question #7)
Can I use additives in my engine?
We do not recommend using additives or cleaners in the oil or fuel system. Air-cooled engines operate at higher temperatures than liquid-cooled automotive engines, and additives developed for automotive use may not perform properly at higher temperatures.
In addition, oil additives can prematurely break down, altering the properties of the oil and leading to extensive internal damage or failure. Fuel system cleaning additives have a tendency to separate and turn acidic, causing damage to fuel system components.
We do, however, recommend a fuel stabilizer during periods of non-use (one month or more) to retard fuel deterioration.