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1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I've been getting some work done on the motor; I've decided to water cool the case and increase air flow with a larger fan.
I couldn't find a fan anywhere, so I took one out of a 1/2HP blower I had on a shelf for a long time.

I received this in the mail from Amsterdam; my friend couldn't get the screws out so he sent the whole thing.
boat drive shaft.jpg

armature with origonal fan.jpg

case and feild coils.jpg

armature vent holes.jpg

flame cut
flame cut rings.jpg

getting boring
drilling water jacket.jpg

tap for 3/8" pipe plugs
tapping water jacket.jpg

brush assembly.jpg

This is probably illegal;
boring an angle with holesaw.jpg

Parts getting together
parts on the boarkbench1.jpg

water jacket assembly.jpg

water jacket welded.jpg

It was made to hold a hydraulic pump;
motor end cap before cutting.jpg

Now it has better airflow;
motor end cap after cutting.jpg

The motor came with a wobbly drive flange made from the original spline drive part. I decided it would be usable if it was a tight press fit onto the motor shaft, so I added the collar and bored it to size.
drive flange with press collar 2.jpg

It press fits onto the section of shaft that used to have an oil seal on it. The spline engages just before it gets tight so it can be positioned for assembly.
armature drive detail.jpg

This shaft press fits onto the rear of the motor where the fan was.
fan mount shaft motor end.jpg

the 'ne'w fan mounts on it.
fan and mount shaft.jpg

New fan needs a new protection cage. I stamped the Bosch motor number on it because the original one is now inside the water jacket.
New fan in cage with serial number.jpg

21,512 Posts
Impressive!! :thThumbsU

Minding my P's & Q's
1,967 Posts
You never cease to amaze me. As always, everything looks good.

21,512 Posts
Thanks, Bob;
I'll be impressed if it actually works!
Yup. That's the same world that I work in.

It's just that you have a tendency to make it look like a manufactured piece as well as being functional, while I tend to stop when it can actually do the job. A lot of my projects don't even get a coat of paint to hide my mistakes.

Minding my P's & Q's
1,967 Posts
It's just that you have a tendency to make it look like a manufactured piece as well as being functional, while I tend to stop when it can actually do the job.
And the amazing thing is, while he is doing one, he also does the other. Manages to do both things at the same time.
An ability (gift) I do not have.

I'm more about make it fit, make it work, grind it down, weld it up, good enough. I'll make it pretty later, if I have to. I guess.

Minding my P's & Q's
1,967 Posts
Ooops, Sorry Mark, looks like I named you Mike in earlier post.
But, hey? The post fit and worked, message got across.
Now I just have to work on making it pretty.

1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
I've been working in it some more; it have to get it crated and shipped in a couple of weeks.

It needs a subshaft; the total reduction is 5.3/1
The gear was on a transmission shaft that's VERY hard, so I cut it off and welded it to this 30mm mild steel rod.

sub shaft with gear.jpg

I had the hub sent from Holland; making a flange to fit the large gear I took out of a friend's car 15 years ago.
prop hub gear flange plate.jpg

To help keep things cool, I smeared heat sink compound over the field coil armatures. Hopefully a lot of heat will go to the water jacket instead of heating the air that the armature needs.
Then copper grease on the screw threads and a little dab of permatex on the mating surface to keep the water on the right side.

heat sink grease, copper grease, permatex.jpg

Pressure testing the water jacket.
water jacket pressure test.jpg

Water cooling plate for the electronic speed control
control box cooling plate.jpg

Pulleys + gears
pulleys + gears.jpg
Pressing on the pulley flange;
pressing pulley flange.jpg

Pressing on the fan adapter shaft;
pressing fan adaptor.jpg

I made 2 extra connection bolts to make the series motor reversible. The connection plate already had the holes in it for them.
Electric connection bolts.jpg

with fan mounted; I pulled the cage from a 1/2HP ventilator I had on a shelf for the last 15 years.
Fan and connection bolts fitted.jpg

This is for the 'throttle', I'm adapting an industrial safety switch box to rotate a potmeter.
Could be overkill, but I had it lying around and it has a nice SS shaft with rotation limit ears already on it.
cam converted to pulley.jpg
I made a little brass knob for the potmeter; ratio is calculated to get me the correct resistance range.
It looks fancy but this was quick work.
string guide knob on potmeter.jpg

This is a pain of a job; cutting a slot for the belt tensioner. I want a milling machine!
slot cutting.jpg

Lining up the subshaft tube with a laser. finicky work but it has to be done.
laser lineup.jpg

Getting it into position with the lights on.
jackshaft setting.jpg

All done; the bolts will be replaced with countersunk allen screws when they get here.
jackshaft mounted  with belt.jpg

Now to get started on the electrics.
CHEAP! this power meter cost 15 euros, and the same again for a 500A shunt. The thermometers were 10 euros for 5 of them. I made a 1.5V regulated power supply from parts I had leftover, so they won't need the little button cells.
One thermometer for the cooling air, the other for the water jacket.
In the picture I have it connected to my car battery for testing, but it will be a 48V system
instrument box with key switch.jpg

I made this holder for the air temp sensor from scrap polycarbonate.
air temp sensor + holder.jpg

The one for the water jacket I made from brass and soldered in. this went easy.
temperature sensor and water adapter.jpg
water temperature sensor installed.jpg

I bought 2 of these 24V pumps from ebay, 8 euros each. I didn't realize they were so small; but I tested one and it performs as advertised. For how long? who knows.
little 24v water pump.jpg

1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Thanks guys;
I expect to mount it in the boat in September, and hopefully I can test it at 1/2 power with a pair of starting batteries I have.

I don't plan to buy the real battery until next year.

1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
I woke up in the middle of the night with the realization that the pinch bolt and slotted plate I made can not hope to hold the tension of the belt with 12HP on it.
So after a lot of thought, I made this from a couple of old head bolts and stuff.
The hex nut material is really hard, I don't know where it came from. I can only cut it with carbide.
Cutting the internal threads [1 right, 1 left] was a challenge to my abilities.

And I made the pivot mount and rod that will be welded into the boat. In the foreground is a jig foe lining up the pivot shaft before welding; the idea is to clamp it to the prop flange, fast work.
I hope.


1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
I got the last of the parts; copper bar for the connections, allen screws for the pulleys, 500A main fuse, and some brass nuts + bolts.
Just in time to ship it out to the boat with the 1965 Mercedes diesel engine I rebuilt over the summer.
The shipper should have picked up Friday, but the driver went to the another town with a similar name [again] 40 miles from here.
I realize now; the driver can't read.

All connected, British made 240A reverse relay and US made electronic speed control box.
I put heat shrink tube around the copper bars.

The assembled motor unit weighs around 60kg [132 lbs]
motor ready to ship 1.jpg

motor ready to ship 2.jpg

motor ready to ship 3.jpg

motor ready to ship 4.jpg

I made the crate from a dead pine tree I cut from my forest. It has sides too.
A tall narrow crate is cheaper to ship than a wide low one. They go by floor space.
Extra weight doesn't add any cost until 350kg [around 800lbs.]

Truck should come for it tomorrow [Monday].
engine and motor in crate.jpg

1,870 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
I went to Netherlands, and installed the diesel and electric motors into the boat.
Lots went wrong...
The diesel wouldn't run properly. I got it semi-ok by advancing the timing way past spec.

I set the mount rod position with the jig I prepared attached to the prop flange;
setting up mount rod.jpg

mounting rod and shaft gear.jpg

motor mounted 1.jpg

motr mounted 2.jpg

The electric had to go in the 'wrong' way, so that it's forward would be boat forward. This causes some conflict between the shafts but I could operate the electric with the shaft of the diesel removed.

My ammeter didn't work; I tried to get a reading with a voltmeter but my voltmeter decided it was a good moment to die.
Anyway, it works, the control is super smooth. I didn't untie the boat during the test, with 2 little start batteries doing the work, no power measurement, and no way to measure boat speed there was no point.

It turns out the hull is rotten, prop is cracked, and the prop shaft is scrap; it will be fixed but not soon.


5K and there's still more
6,330 Posts
Well, there were some positives.
The electric motor had limited success, he just wasn't able to obtain
a real time measurement of the numbers.
Since the shaft and prop will need replacement he will have a
better system once they are in place.
I'd say those are positive outcomes.


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