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Discussion Starter #1
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Look what I found today. A complete power steering unit. I hope this will work on my homemade tractor. This guy didn't want the steering so I traded him my kuobta steering coulme for this setup. But I do have questions. This steering valve has 5 ports coming out.

1 LT
2 RH
3 In
4 Out
5 Aux????

What does the Aux do and where would I direct this line too. I understand the Lt and the RT goes to the cylinder. I understand the in comes from the top port on my sundstrand pump. I belive the out goes in any line that goes to the tank. But the Aux I have no idea where it will go. On the mower I got this from the In, Out and the Aux went to the tranaxel. Would I plug the Aux off or add it to the going to the tank line with the out going line.
 

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I believe that is the power beyond port that allows your steering to work while you are running a loader or something else hydraulic. Can't remember where it hooks to off the top of my head.
 

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The system is open center, that means the aux has to eventually go back to the tank.

If it goes through an auxiliary valve on the way, that is OK too!! :drunkie:
 

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:ditto:

From the Sundstrand to the IN port, from the OUT port back to the Sunstrand with a T fitting. From the AUX port to either the other leg of the T fitting, or to the implement lift valves.The return line from the implement lift valves then goes to the other leg of the T.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tudor. If I understand you right! From the out port of the steering valve to the sundstrand with a T fitting. Is this T fitting in the out line from the bottom of the pump and also the aux T'ed in the same line! Is this going to be a good set-up to work out in this machine?

Thanks guys for you input as well.
 

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If you are NOT using the implement hydraulics, both the OUT and AUX ports of the p/s valve go to the tank or the return port on the hydro. Take your pick, but the hydro is closer.

Optionally (and this is the one that you specifically asked about), they can be connected to the drain line on the bottom of the hydro. All 3 are low pressure return to tank lines and that is where the oil will end up. Choose your hose routing for simplicity and ease of maintenance.

A third option is to cap the OUT port of the p/s valve. It's redundant if you are not using the implement hydraulics option. That makes the AUX port into the return port.

Any of these 3 scenarios will work fine on your machine, provided that you are not including an implement lift in the circuitry. If you do include an implement lift, see Post #4.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well Tudor Thanks. Looks like this can be done a lot of ways. I like plugin to out port idea. Let me get to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay guys I'm at a stump here now. I know how to read english size hose fittings. I have no clue how metric fitting read. I can't find metric hydraulic line fittings for the steering valve. I need a cap that is 14MM and some 90 degree fitting. Some are 14MM and one is 16MM I'm going to have to go metric on one end and english on the other end. I have a Parker store here in town and work with them a lot there told me they can't get anything. I hate to buy fittings and they don't fit. If I could get the right one on the steering valve I could braze a english fitting on the other end. What can I do!!!
 

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You have a machine shop? Make them!

Bet that you will find that the thread is a standard metric bolt pitch.

Who was that guy that made that bee-yoo-ti-ful gear box! :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know what you mean. Just trying to get out of making them because I have so much to to make here. Could I braze a standred an fitting on one end of the line I have here now?
 

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Surely the local hydraulics shop has the necessary fittings for a few $$. :dunno:

Brazing is plenty strong up to 1500 psi. I have seen braze peel like a banana at 3500 psi! :bannana:
 

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Silver solder for hydraulics.
 

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So this is where you have been hangen out !

It's my first visit here and saw your in the need of some metric fittings.

http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/Metric_fittings_s/1918.htm

This is a good place to get your flareless 3/4" fittings. I just finished a couple of short 3/4" tubes to the motor - I will post some pictures.

Question can you re-tap ? It would sure beat braising or silver soldering , I have done it with good results.

Donewrken

:fing32:


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Why silver, galvanic corrosion concerns?? :dunno:
Strength for dealing with the pressures involved. It's stronger than brazing with brass rods and it wicks into the inside of the connection like plumbing solder. It's often used for fittings on the ends of the steel tube lines and the T connections in the middle of those lines.

Galvanic corrosion does enter the picture, but the lines are often stainless steel which resists corrosion.
 

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Question can you re-tap ? It would sure beat braising or silver soldering , I have done it with good results.

Donewrken
Only if the full thread depth is in undisturbed steel with none of the previous thread encroaching on the new thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes Done! If been over here also. I got to get some pictures as to what I did. I took the valve apart and cut the ports off and taped them to 1/4 pipe threads. That was 4 of them. The one I had to tig weld a adaptor to the end of the port. The wall was too thin to tap 1/4 pipe and it is right on the relefe plug. Now I can use common fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay! Here is what I did. You can see the ports I cut off the base of the valve. The one port I had to leave because the base metal was too thin to tap. So I tig welded a fitting right on the end of the port. The others I drilled and taped 1/4 pipe thread. Screwed the #6 fittings in the base. No more metric fitting now.

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