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Possibly dumb gear oil question

2058 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  chzuck
I have a Horse, and have just drained the gear oil because it's been 4 years. I've tried to find this answer in all the manuals, but haven't been successful. There is an oil plug at the top of the tines right below the lever, and then also there is the oil check plug and oil drain plug by the wheel.

ARE THESE CONNECTED? In other words, do I need to drain both of them, or just drain the bottom drain plug and then fill it all up again by the oil plug near the tines?

I've read I'm supposed to take off the T-handle to get at the chassis oil hole, but this hole by the tines seems much easier. But the only mention I can find of it, is if it is a PTO and needs to be detached and drained separately.?????

Serial number appears to be 802003, although the 8 is hard to read. I believe this puts it in the Oct 1985 manufacturing time???
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Given the vintage, I'm thinking this is a PTO horse? If so, you need to drain both.
I do think it is a PTO Horse, which I didn't realize before, since that should mean I could detach the entire tiller section off? I've never done that. Are there other neat attachments I could use ?

Staying on topic though, I think you are right, that there are two things to drain, which is a pain. ALSO, I've been calling around and apparently in our neck of the woods, straight 140 weight is impossible to get. I will have to go with the 85W-140 weight, which is both GL-4 and GL-5.

Thanks.
Yup, it it is a PTO horse the entire tiller section should detach. Right after the transmission, there are a two bolts (one on each side of the shaft) that you can loosen and they swing out. Then the tiller should come off. A PTO horse should also have a small pto engage/disengage lever in the same area. There are some pretty neat PTO attachments, but be prepared to spend $$$. There is a wood splitter and generator attachment.

I got my oil from Amazon. They had the recommended weight in a GL-4. You might check there. Draining the transmission isn't hard, but the tine gear box can be a pain. You have to remove the tines to access the drain plug. If life is good they pop right off. But life is rarely good on a 30 year old tiller that's seen water/soil for all it's life. I think I used a gear puller to get mine off, IIRC.
Yes, I've taken my tines off and they came right off. I bought this tiller reconditioned about 4 years ago, and so that's probably why. I greased things up good before putting them back on. There was lots of thread from feed bags wound around and around in there.

I probably did a bad and TIPPED the tiller over to get the tiller section to drain.

I will look into the possibility of taking off the whole tiller assembly. Intriguing. Wood splitter!! Where do you even find a list of these attachments available? I'm assuming they don't make them anymore....
The origional manual came with mine, which had all the attachments listed. All I can say is they don't make manuals like that anymore. It's something like 150 pages with absolutely anything you need to do to the tiller diagrammed out in steps.

Here's a link to the promotional materials for the PTO Horse, which also hast all the attachments. I love old advertisements....

http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals/1984GardenWay-TillersBrochureWM.pdf
Let's see...

The TB website is an excellent resource for manuals. There are also some copied here, including tranny service manuals.

You can get the correct gear oil at NAPA. You'll want to look up the part number before you go, or there's a good chance they'll tell you it doesn't exist. They may have to order it for you.

There's lots of great info here (Search is your friend), and there's also a great Yahoo users group for more info on these tillers.

As for the PTO attachments, they can be found on EBay or CL from time to time. The most common seem to be the chipper/shredders. I've seen a handful of splitters come up over the years. Don't think I've ever seen a generator, maybe once as part of a package deal.

Hope this helps.

Mike
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TWG1572, that advertisement is fantastic! Thanks for the link. I had no idea such things were available. For me, the furrower would certainly be handy. I'll keep an eye out on Ebay.

Thanks for all your help. I found the right weight oil at Canadian Tire, which will work, although it's not the straight 140. It's 85W-140, both GL-4 and 5....
You did confirm that the oil is rated for yellow metals, correct?

Mike
Nope. How important is that going to be in a rototiller?
The gearbox & tines are separate as far as oil goes, as the other's have stated, get a manual & part's list, they are very helpful.

Ronnie
Not sure if you have an O'Reily's Auto Parts around but the ones around here sell gallon jugs of 140 weight GL-4 oil.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MP03/80040.oap?ck=Search_gear+oil_-1_-1&keyword=gear+oil
The yellow metal debate rages eternally on the Troy Bilt horse forums. There are some that say you can only do GL4 because of the bronze bushings, and some that say GL5 is fine as long as it's backwards compatable with GL4. Has to do with the sulfur levels in the oil, and how they interact with the bronze gears. I'd definitly recommend making sure your oil is yellow metal safe, as mikeinri indicated.

The GL4 stuff is around, you just have to dig a bit more. Napa can order it, or Amazon is another good source. I tend to err on the side of caution, so I got the GL4. This is the stuff I used.

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:ditto: That's what I got through NAPA. They had to order it from a warehouse (overnight, no charge since I picked it up at the store). They didn't believe me until I showed it to them on my smart phone...

Mike
I use Warren GL-1 140 oil. Search their website for availability in your area. An ACE hardware store near me handles it.
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