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Discussion Starter #1
I would really appreciate some help.

I recently re-wired my already converted to 12 volt 8N and used a wiring diagram I found on line. So when a friend of mine asked if I would re-wire his already converted to 12 volt Ford 2000 I thought it would be much the same but I am having some problems.

First of all I have done many "searches" for days and have yet to find a wiring diagram (schematic) for a Ford 2000 12 volt conversion.

I did find an article on Yesterdays Tractors but no diagram. This article never mentions running wires to the terminal block like I did with my 8N.

So today I made up all new wiring and wired it up like I did my 8N but before I hook up the battery on my friend's tractor I would really like to know I'm good to go.

The tractor is a 4 speed, 4 cylinder gas, with a one wire alternator. No ammeter or voltmeter. He bought a gauge package that included, gas gauge, oil pressure gauge, temp gauge and proof meter.

I got all the gauges hooked up but I don't have a clue how to wire the gas gauge.

Can someone please help. I would rally like to get this for him going tomorrow.

Thanks,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Kirk!

I have searched for days with no luck.

This is exactly what I've been looking for.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!:thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ford 2000 No power on S terminal on solenoid

Got everything wired up, all gauges installed and working but the push button starter switch would not work. Replaced the push button switch, no luck. Replaced the solenoid still the push button switch won't work.
So I then wired the starter to the keyed starter switch and it's start just fine.
Checked the S terminal on both the old solenoid before I removed it and the new one after installed and it is not hot.

Shouldn't it be hot all the time. There's is just one wire running to the push button switch so I assume it should be hot.

Any suggestions?
 

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1981 Ford 1100 4WD
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With the ignition switch in the ON position you should have +12 on one side of the starter relay coil (small terminal). Then the starter button should ground the other small terminal. Make sure that one side of the starter button has a good ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know very little about DC wiring and at a lost to get the push button (safety switch) to work on this Ford 2000, 4cyl., gas tractor.
I can not get any power out of the "S" terminal on the solenoid. I currently have this tractor wired to start from the keyed switch and it starts fine but would really like to get this safety switch to work.
Can someone explain to me in "Layman's" terms how to get this Push Button to start the tractor and keep it from starting when not in neutral. This friend of mine (elderly man) started this tractor the other day when it was in gear and he was not on the tractor. It ran away into his boat. I would really appreciate some help, please.
 

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I know very little about DC wiring and at a lost to get the push button (safety switch) to work on this Ford 2000, 4cyl., gas tractor.
I can not get any power out of the "S" terminal on the solenoid. I currently have this tractor wired to start from the keyed switch and it starts fine but would really like to get this safety switch to work.
Can someone explain to me in "Layman's" terms how to get this Push Button to start the tractor and keep it from starting when not in neutral. This friend of mine (elderly man) started this tractor the other day when it was in gear and he was not on the tractor. It ran away into his boat. I would really appreciate some help, please.
Looking at the diagram that Kirk-NJ posted, the starter button should hook up the same as the 8N..

Is the button on the transmission the same as the N ??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looking at the diagram that Kirk-NJ posted, the starter button should hook up the same as the 8N..

Is the button on the transmission the same as the N ??
If I remember correctly the button (from Tractor Supply) ssaid on the package it was for a range of ford tractors including the N and 2000
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If everything is wired correctly should the "S" terminal on the solenoid be hot all the time?

The "Push Button" starter switch (safety switch) does not work.

Using a DC check light I can not get any power coming out of this "S" terminal.

Bought new and replaced both the Push Button switch and solenoid.

Any advise?
 

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The way I understand it, is the wire from the solenoid to the starter switch is not hot..When the starter button is depressed it completes the circuit and grounds the electromagnet within the solenoid.

The starter button is designed to only engage when the shifter lever is in neutral..Have you checked that yet ??
 

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The way I understand it, is the wire from the solenoid to the starter switch is not hot..When the starter button is depressed it completes the circuit and grounds the electromagnet within the solenoid.

The starter button is designed to only engage when the shifter lever is in neutral..Have you checked that yet ??
:ditto:

If everything is wired correctly should the "S" terminal on the solenoid be hot all the time?

The "Push Button" starter switch (safety switch) does not work.

Using a DC check light I can not get any power coming out of this "S" terminal.

Bought new and replaced both the Push Button switch and solenoid.

Any advise?
Is this a 3 terminal solenoid or a 4?
 

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Why does a tractor that has a separate starter button also have a "Start" position on the key switch? Shouldn't it only have one or the other?

From the schematic posted above, one side of the solenoid primary should be hot, but only when the key switch is in the "Run" position. The key switch should not even have a "Start" position". The other side of the solenoid primary should connect to the foot operated starter switch, and other side of the starter switch should be connected to ground.
 

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Yes. The 'S' terminal on your solenoid should be hot... at least when the ignition is on. "Shorting" that terminal to ground (via the neutral interlock switch) is what activates the relay (aka solenoid) to allow battery voltage to pass from the primary post to the switched post (and on to the starter).
 

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Did anyone ever figure this out?
I recently picked up an 861 that had a 12v convesion already installed alot of cut and splice of the original generator harness. There was already a new starter swich and solenoid installed the seller could not get the stater swich to work so was jumping the "S" teminal with nothing connected to the "I" terninal to get it to fire off.
Yesterday stripped everything off, and today replaced all the wiring. Guess what same mess differnt day.
Here is what I have, with a switched hot wire to the "I" terminal and "+" of the coil. The "S" terminal to the start button, depress the start buttom nothing. Disconnect the wire from the switch and toutch to a good ground nothing, but to a hot wire and were of too races. The unfortunate thing is I'm no farther than I was yesterday morning.
I did switch out the, solenoid that was working two years ago when I last used it, same results.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
 
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