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1946 2n, 316JD
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just Did the coil upgrade to can coil, It was well worth it. after I did it, the old girl fired right up, then died, I ran a wire from the Battery to the + term on the coil, it fired right up and stayed running, HUM Must have a short in the wiring harness. I wiggled it a little removed the jumper while it was running and it stayed running but ran like crap,, missing like it did before all of this.. must be a voltage problem, enough to let it run, but not enough to run right.
Any How here you go::::
first remove the coil and cut the riviots off,, I used a die grinder.
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
gut the coil

When you open the coil you will see a lot of work. I used a propane torch to soften the tar and dug with a screw driver to remove the coil from the housing, I broke a section when I did it but I could careless, nothing BONDO won't fix, It is just a big wire holder any more..

When Your done you will have two wires at the bottom.. That's the target..
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Now I cleaned it out with brake cleaner, and cleaned the wires real good. Then I use some 7mm stainless steel high voltage silicon covered wire, and sone automotive copper mutistrand wire.

I soldered the 7mm wire to the front wire, connecting the wire to the clip on the front, this is your coil wire,, After the connection was made I checked it for Ohms. Checked 00.00 from wire end to clip underneth the coil body.

Then I soldered the automotive copper wire to the other wire that connects to the spring. this is you points connection. I repeated the same steps, checking for Ohms..
When this is done I let the wires cool..
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After the wires cooled I packed the wires with some 3m silicon for sealing windows, or bath tubs.. then let that set overnight..

Then I drilled a 7mm, and a 1/8 hole thru the cap, on the back side so the wires would not be close to the fan:fing32:
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Now i packed the cap with a greasy rag for viberation damping and mixed up some bondo.. Then I put bondo all around the cap edge and sealed it shut. at this poit I also filled the broken spot that I broke while digging the coil out..

I then put it infront of the heater to cook.. Five minutes later... ready to go..

I bought some coil crimps from NAPA, and a male and female conector. I crimped the coil wire on the coil wire, put a male conector on the old coil body. and a female on the can coil.. I then started the 2n UP!!!!
 

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Premium Member
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5,674 Posts
Thanks for the pics, this should help others that want or need to do this to their front mounts. :thanku:
 

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3,268 Posts
If your putting this on a 12 volt system the can coil may have an internal resister. If so that you won't need the resister that is in the old system.

Kirk
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
Joined
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the pics, this should help others that want or need to do this to their front mounts. :thanku:
that Is why we all love our forum... We can help each other.. :thThumbsU
 

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1946 2n, 316JD
Joined
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
If your putting this on a 12 volt system the can coil may have an internal resister. If so that you won't need the resister that is in the old system.

Kirk
I agree kirk. That may be what was messing up. but for now I am just jumping the coil off the + battery and starting it.. I will rewire it soon enough. then I will remove the reststor.
 
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