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Glad to hear the progress... we want tractor pictures not zerk pictures!! The people have spoken!!! MORE PICTURES!!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Glad to hear the progress... we want tractor pictures not zerk pictures!! The people have spoken!!! MORE PICTURES!!
I know, I know..... I also installed a new starter switch, a new circuit breaker that was melted and a new solenoid. Nobody wants pictures of that...:tango_face_wink:

Starter switch looks naked without decals on the tower.
 

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I know, I know..... I also installed a new starter switch, a new circuit breaker that was melted and a new solenoid. Nobody wants pictures of that...:tango_face_wink:

Starter switch looks naked without decals on the tower.
You are soooooo close! does it look like youll be able to get the driveshaft welded and engine installed this weekend?!
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
It's ALIVE!!!

It was a long weekend of fighting with the old and new driveshaft. Had to remove old drive shaft the old stub would not come off with a BFH or air hammer, out came the sawzall. With the fan, the welds were very difficult to access with various dremel, cutting wheels, hammer and chisels. The fan had to be enlarged to fit the new shaft and welded on. Next it was battling with fitment of drive shaft keys on the pump and flywheel stub. A lot of sanding, grinding and walking back and forth.

Next i replaced the hardened rubber O-rings at the steering ram line fittings. No more leak so far. Afterwards, I cleaned the nasty fuel tank and shut-off valve screen.

The engine must weigh at least half as much as the K532 and easy to lift solo. After mounted it was plug and play. SEW have corrected some prior issues. I like the 400's rubber engine mounts, they really absorb the vibrations quite well. I filled the engine with 5w30 Mobil1, topped off hydro fluid (1 qt of ATF Type F) from prior steering leak. The Hulk must have tightened the hydro drain plug as it won't budge (mangled square plug), I'll deal with this later. It fired up after 20-30 seconds of priming fuel lines. I'm in love with the Power Assist steering!!!!! It moves forward and reverse. I still need to hook up the fittings for the oil pressure gauge, clean up wiring and connect hour meter.

I will be installing a 90 degree elbow or a 318/420 hydro cooler since clearance with the new shaft is an issue and temporarily solved with a large zip tie on the cooler lines. Does anyone know the ID (inner diameter) of rubber hydraulic hoses?

 

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This makes me so happy! It was great to hear it purrrr yesterday! Power steering is the best ever you will never got back
 

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I'm putting in the same two gauges that you are. I opted for the copper line for the oil gauge though. I used the poly on another tractor and it took a beating. Anything hot or rubbing it and you'll lose a lot of oil before you know it. The engine install looks great.
 

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She's looking great! I'm glad you saved the ole girl!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I'm putting in the same two gauges that you are. I opted for the copper line for the oil gauge though. I used the poly on another tractor and it took a beating. Anything hot or rubbing it and you'll lose a lot of oil before you know it. The engine install looks great.
I was at NAPA the other day and saw the copper kit in their catalog. I think i will take your advice with that. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
She's looking great! I'm glad you saved the ole girl!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Thanks, me too. I need to have my daughters give her/him a name.
 

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I'm putting in the same two gauges that you are. I opted for the copper line for the oil gauge though. I used the poly on another tractor and it took a beating. Anything hot or rubbing it and you'll lose a lot of oil before you know it. The engine install looks great.
Where are you guys hooking up the oil pressure gauge on the B&S engine? I want to put an oil pressure gauge on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Where are you guys hooking up the oil pressure gauge on the B&S engine? I want to put an oil pressure gauge on mine.
There is a threaded plug on the oil filter adapter just above the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I sanded and primed the crusty hood support and grill. Ground out the stubs of the hacked grill fins (from PO) and have some new metal from Lowes to weld some new ones on for $7. It sure beats buying an eBay one. My 318/420 hydraulic cooler arrived, I just need to figure out mounting options. I also got some new various bolts/nuts and washer to replace rusty ones for side panels and fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
I have been progressing but running into obstacles. The 318 cooler is mounted with fabbed up angle brackets to the engine mount plate and one rubber isolator mount on the battery tray to reduce vibartion. It will have plenty of air flow to keep cool. The partial upper firewall, not sure it even acted as one before, will not be used for now. The Vanguard moves a lot of air. The 2 grill slats were welded on that were hacked off by the PO and has been repainted. The muffler heat shield had to be notched to clear the dipstick. The SEW PTO cable guide needs to go back to the drawing board. First of all, its too short, secondly it needed to be massaged with a BFH to keep the correct angle like the OEM. Thirdly, the PTO cable rubs the muffler. I had to fab up a piece of steel and a threaded eyelet to guide the cable about 1/4" away from the muffler. I will post pics later of the PTO corrections since I had to repaint it and the little bracket last night.

The hood has also been getting attention. I removed the hood nose with a heat gun and scaper since it was partially glued and not sitting level. It was reattached with some industrial adhesive, E6000 I think. Every night for the past week I have been adding layers to fill in the burned out corner. I uncovered a prior repair with bondo. Last night should be the last, it looks ugly but I will shape with my air die grander/sander biscuits and use body filler to smooth out imperfections. This Sunday should be paint day.
 

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It's funny that you mentioned the PTO cable rubbing the muffler because I had the exact same problem. The PTO cable router arm was also not a good fit on my Honda conversion either. I solved the muffler rubbing by using a ball peen hammer and made a vertical dent that allows the cable to miss the muffler by about 1/4-inch. Since the dent is nice and smooth it looks normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
It's funny that you mentioned the PTO cable rubbing the muffler because I had the exact same problem. The PTO cable router arm was also not a good fit on my Honda conversion either. I solved the muffler rubbing by using a ball peen hammer and made a vertical dent that allows the cable to miss the muffler by about 1/4-inch. Since the dent is nice and smooth it looks normal.
HAHA, I like it. I was afraid to do that to my new engine. Check out my muffler massage from repowering my old Giant Vac blower with a Harbor Freight 6.5 HP engine. It wouldn't clear the blower housing.
 

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you are making quick work on this project and it looks like it's coming along despite some of your challenges.:thThumbsU
 

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She's coming along nicely!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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My 400 with K582 has a tubing sleeve that acts as a heat shield for the PTO cable as it passes by the muffler. In case that matters.

Give me a fiberglass hood every time!
Looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Thanks for the encouragement guys!

Jay, Mine did too, but it rested directly against the muffler and rattled.



Update: Paint was applied yesterday. What a learning curve that was.... Saturday I ground down the built up fiberglass on the burned out hood corner. Every night for a week applied a layer. I prefer the fiberglass matting vs the Fabric in regards to applications. I used 2 yalers for fabric for base shape and applied matting afterwards. It looked nasty, but the air grinder biscuits made shaping the hood corner easy. Afterwards, I applied some filler to smooth out the imperfections.

Wet sanding the tins was the most rewarding since the result was a glass like finish to the touch. I preferred to use the 400/600 wet sanding sponges, great for all the curves and irregularities. I mixed the paint 4:1:0.5 and shot with the purple China Freight HVLP (1.4 tip). 60 PSI seemed to work best for atomization surprisingly. I used a propane heater in the makeshift booth in my garage. Instead of 1 box fan for exhaust, 2 or more would have been preferred. I thought it was worth the $ to get a good mask, I opted for the $49 3M version for HomeDepot and some goggles. The last coat was heaviest and it reduced the orange peel effect the most from the first couple coats, but its a fine line to spray it heavy without getting drips or sags. I ran out of paint, so the hood will get rattle can. After a few days of curing I will decide if Im going to cut and buff. Its pretty darn glossy though! Pics to come...
 
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