Did you set the mag, per the instructions on the page I posted..?? Crank engine, and get #1 on TDC. Losen mag, and turn clockwise as far as possible. Then, crank engine almost one more revolution, getting the timing mark on TDC once again. Then slowly rotate the mag CCW until the impulse snaps. Snug it down right there. Should be right on the money, if the mags timing marks are in the proper place with the crankshaft gear. If you have an older neon light type, timing light laying around, you can check the timing, via the timing mark on the flywheel. If the leads are long enough...
If you do a tune up, the dwell angle may change the timing, so re-time it. A lot depends on how much the points wear block is worn. I know on my old Chevy's with the dial in points set up's, dwell angle would change the timing, but timing will not change the dwell angle.
Make sure you use copper core wires, not hypalon. NAPA sells a copper core kit for up to a 6 cyl. with copper wire, ends, boots etc., for between $20 & $25. Or get some bulk copper wire, boots, ends, etc., and make you own up. Unless those are cracked, or really bad shape, they will probably do fine. Copper wires last almost indefinitely, as long as the rubber coating is intact, or the wires have been really crimped in a turn, and broke.
Not sure where you get your tune-up parts, but I believe NAPA or IH would be your best bet. Just be sure to tell them it is a mag. An H-4 mag to be exact. Breaker gap according to I&T is .013. I'm thinking an old IH, or Motor's Manual, manual we had here years ago said .013 -.015. We always set them at .014, a happy medium, per that manual. Never had any problems.
For plugs, I'd imagine you'll end up with Champion D-15Y's. Do expect them to carbon up within 50 hours or so. Or at least they used to... It is due to the protective coating put on at the factory. If you have a sandblaster type plug cleaner, blast, and clean with some carb cleaner, and compressed air dry. If not, a soft wire brush, such as a brass wire brush will clean them up. Spray with carb. cleaner, compressed air dry. Re-set, and re-install. Plugs are gapped @ .025.
That's not a stupid question on the cooling system. And, no they don't. The straight A's, B's and C series used what is called a Thermo-Siphon system. Hot water will perc out into the top of the radiator, and as it cools, will re-enter the engine block at the bottom. Unless you pull the living guts out of them, it does a very good job of keeping the engine within it's intended temp range. On hot days, or after working it pretty good, you will hear it gurgling well after you shut it off, which is normal. Just doing it's thing... Water pumps were put on, when the Super Series came out.
One other thing... If you can get the hood off without too much trouble. Look at the fan hub assembly. Behind the pulley grooves, in the flat space, look for the head of a larger screw. Should take a flat blade type screwdriver to remove. It should also have a small gasket under the head of the screw. Back that screw out, and place 4-6 drops of like 30wt. non-det. oil in there, and re-install the screw. Some manuals call to fill it to the top, then rotate until the hole is at the bottom, and let it drain, then put the screw back in... I just add 4-6 drops... Better than nothing, and not near the mess.