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My uncle and I picked this up to save her from a trip to the scrap yard. Just 3 miles away from the house.
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Picked up another project, 1939 A
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The old girl appears to be in decent shape cosmetic wise. At least not all beat up. Lifting/mounting pieces are worth a little something..!! Any implements with it..??
And from the looks of the style of tread on the rears, could it be possible they are originals..?? Look like the old Firestone closed center type tread on my old '36 F-12.
Neat little tractor's... I have 2 of them..!!
And from the looks of the style of tread on the rears, could it be possible they are originals..?? Look like the old Firestone closed center type tread on my old '36 F-12.
Neat little tractor's... I have 2 of them..!!
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Only the right rear is the closed Firestone type. We don't have any attachments for it yet. I'll take off the lift handles and such for now until we need them. When we picked her up the motor was froze up. I got it to break loose a few days ago. Now to clean the carb and change the oil then I'll try to get her to fire up. No electric start, this should be fun. Lol
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If you have something to pull it with, believe I'd try that first, instead of wearing your arm out. If the mag is timed right, you may be surprised how easy it will start. On my A, 2 cranks full choke, then knock the choke off, and on the 3rd, 99.9% of the time, she up and purring.
To be honest, I'd rather have a mag than a distributor. Dead battery..?? No problem..!! 3 cranks, and she's running..!!
To be honest, I'd rather have a mag than a distributor. Dead battery..?? No problem..!! 3 cranks, and she's running..!!
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I may just do that. Thanks for the advice. According to the PO it ran about 4-5 years ago so once I get the carb cleaned out and fresh oil in it she may start right up. Hard to say. I'll post again when I get in to it more.
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I tried tinkering around with the little A today. I've never messed with a magneto before so I didn't get her to fire yet. She tried once but that was it. I was picturing (in my head) something different when setting the timing. I didn't realize that the entire magneto turned when you move the timing. I thought the rotor would stay put like on a regular disrltributor. Just something I'm not used to, I'll get there though.
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Oh... Don't believe I'd have moved the mag... They are a little different than a distributor, and have an impulse, to kick the mag over when starting. The impulse is to be tripped at TDC. Lag angle is 35º. That's what you'll hear clicking when you turn it over. Might be an idee to find you a manual. If it at least popped, it was close.
If you're cranking by hand... Always..., ALWAYS keep your thumb on top with your fingers when grasping the crank. Never underneath. If it happens to kick, it will lay your thumb back further, than it was intended. I got schooled on that many moons ago, but saw some newbies at shows that found out the hard way . Not pretty...
If you're cranking by hand... Always..., ALWAYS keep your thumb on top with your fingers when grasping the crank. Never underneath. If it happens to kick, it will lay your thumb back further, than it was intended. I got schooled on that many moons ago, but saw some newbies at shows that found out the hard way . Not pretty...
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Then help me out here. If you don't move the mag to set timing where are the bolts to move just the cap? I'll have to get a pic and post it because I didn't see anything to move just the cap to change position with the rotor to change the timing. The entire thing seems to move as one assembly.
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I found a YouTube video that explained the process. When I have time I'll give it a try. I think I understand how it works more now.
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Well just in case, here are the instructions per the I&T manual. Fairly simple, but sometimes hard to explain, and easier to understand out of the manual.
Hopefully the timing mark on the flywheel will still have a stripe of white paint on it. Lots easier to spot.
And if not in the video, the rotation of the mag is clockwise.
You should be able to click on the pic I posted, and print it off, to a full page size, so it is ledgeable.
Hope this helps. Keep us updated on the progress..!!
Hopefully the timing mark on the flywheel will still have a stripe of white paint on it. Lots easier to spot.
And if not in the video, the rotation of the mag is clockwise.
You should be able to click on the pic I posted, and print it off, to a full page size, so it is ledgeable.
Hope this helps. Keep us updated on the progress..!!
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Thank you very much. I saved it to my phone so I can refer to it later. I will definitely keep you posted.
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I had a little time to mess with her today. Tried to. Time it but couldn't get it quite right. She huffed a few times but no fire. I couldn't seem to find the timing marks on the flywheel/clutch assembly so I found tdc by the old fashion way, finger in the no 1 while and brought it all the way to the top.
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Were you looking through the hand hole in the bottom of the torque tube..?? It takes a trouble light, or flash light to see the groove in the flywheel. It is beyond the starter ring gear. I might suggest finding it, brushing it off, and putting a some white paint on it to find it again. A paint pen may do well for that. As mentioned, all of mine already have them marked. They were that way when I got them, so not sure if someone else did it, or that way from the factory.
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Mine has no ring gear for the starter. No electric start, hand crank only. I will look again for the marks. I had a small flash light looking through the hand hole (the larger one) but did not see the marks. I will take a brush to it and clean off some of the light surface rust and look again. I'm sure once I get the marks aligned I should be able to get her timed in. The clutch cover has a large pointer on it, is this the mark I use to line things up? It seems to be off to one side a bit. Just curious and thanks for the help. I admit I am new at working on the old farmalls.
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LOL...., don't know what I was thinkin'... DUH...
The timing mark isn't very wide. Maybe a 1/16" groove, w/DC on one side of the groove, and 1/4" on the other. Yes the pointer is what you align with.
Have you checked under the plug wire cap..?? They can get corroded, and get a build up on them. More than likely brass lugs if original. You can lightly scrape it with your knife blade, and clean them up. Rotor button too, can get a carbon build up to. Scrape, or some emery cloth will clean it well.
If it's huffing, it's trying..!! You'll get it..!!
The timing mark isn't very wide. Maybe a 1/16" groove, w/DC on one side of the groove, and 1/4" on the other. Yes the pointer is what you align with.
Have you checked under the plug wire cap..?? They can get corroded, and get a build up on them. More than likely brass lugs if original. You can lightly scrape it with your knife blade, and clean them up. Rotor button too, can get a carbon build up to. Scrape, or some emery cloth will clean it well.
If it's huffing, it's trying..!! You'll get it..!!
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I finally found the timing marks! I have the timing set per the directions. I am getting better results now. I haven't got it to fire just yet. It did pop a few times while cranking though. I think the carb may need some more cleaning. Not sure where to set the mixture screws so I put them at 2 turns out each. I'm gonna try to get some help and attempt to pull start it. My arm is getting tired! Lol
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1-1/2 turns on the main, and about 3/4 turn on the idle screw should get it close enough to start & run. You can tweek it after it warms up some.
Two things you may want to check. #1 the oil bath breather. If it's been setting out, could have taken on some moisture, and be too high to let it breathe. This is just assuming the hose is still in place between the breather, and carb. Flush & refill with some cheap 30 wt. if you have it.
#2. Where the fuel line goes into the carb. That El, is actually an inline filter screen. Or. at least there should be one there. Catches stuff that snuck by the screen above the sediment bowl. A little spray carb. cleaner, and some low psi air will clean them pretty well. If it gets past that screen, it will get sucked into the main discharge nozzle, and you'll need to remove it, and thoroughly clean, especially check the small cross drilled holes. Just a speck of something will clog one of those holes, and it will not run right.
It doesn't take much to flood them, so if it happens to pop, or huff, it may have enough gas. As mentioned, pull starting at the beginning is a lot better way, until you get the bugs worked out.
Not sure how fast you will be pulling it, but it doesn't have to be all that fast 3-4 mph or so. But do have the throttle at, between 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
Hope you made some headway today..!!
Two things you may want to check. #1 the oil bath breather. If it's been setting out, could have taken on some moisture, and be too high to let it breathe. This is just assuming the hose is still in place between the breather, and carb. Flush & refill with some cheap 30 wt. if you have it.
#2. Where the fuel line goes into the carb. That El, is actually an inline filter screen. Or. at least there should be one there. Catches stuff that snuck by the screen above the sediment bowl. A little spray carb. cleaner, and some low psi air will clean them pretty well. If it gets past that screen, it will get sucked into the main discharge nozzle, and you'll need to remove it, and thoroughly clean, especially check the small cross drilled holes. Just a speck of something will clog one of those holes, and it will not run right.
It doesn't take much to flood them, so if it happens to pop, or huff, it may have enough gas. As mentioned, pull starting at the beginning is a lot better way, until you get the bugs worked out.
Not sure how fast you will be pulling it, but it doesn't have to be all that fast 3-4 mph or so. But do have the throttle at, between 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
Hope you made some headway today..!!
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I got her running! By hand cranking it even! She runs rough and I had a temporary fuel tank hooked up to it but it does run. I cranked her 2-3 times with the choke on then twice with no choke and she fired up. It blew black garbage all over the place at first. Probably from the atf and marvel oil I had in the cylinders to free it up.
Thanks for the carb settings. I had them both at 2 turns out, I will adjust them tomorrow when I play with it some more. I really appreciate the help and advice. Its very rewarding to hear an old machine fire up after being neglected and ignored by others.
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Thanks for the carb settings. I had them both at 2 turns out, I will adjust them tomorrow when I play with it some more. I really appreciate the help and advice. Its very rewarding to hear an old machine fire up after being neglected and ignored by others.
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The reason she wouldn't fire before was the plugs fouled due to the oil leftover in the cylinders. I think I may have also flooded it.
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