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For some reason the clear of this has State restrictions for sale. So maybe not the best solution.
I was given a tube of the tan but it shows in places. The perfect solution continues !!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks, man. I just ordered a can of it since I have two seats to repair. I'll let you know how it turns out. I had to order the tan also but plan on using black rubber caulk around the edges after the nitrile cures.
 

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Like every project the prep is the most important. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have a plan and it looks like one of your photos where the clamps and weights are set all the way around the cushion. I have never used the nitrile glue so is there anything you can tell me from your experience?
 

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It doesn't spread well ( I have the tube) and almost impossible to get off where you don't want it. I've only done the 1 seat ( reapplied in couple of areas after couple of years ) and in my open garage for safety, suggest you do the same or some other precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I was going to order the tubes but at only 5 oz. it didn't sound like it would be enough for two seats. I'll do it in an open area and wear throw away gloves. Do you remember the cure time?
 

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Just a few hours from what I read but left the picture you see overnight and that was plenty. I think I used Acetone and a scraper to prep. When the seat pads are completely off you can see the glue pattern they used.
Most of the 2 part JD seats are so badly torn before the glue lets go. LOL
Can't wait for you opinion. I'm not sure if this stuff is for just any member to use ??
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That's what's so funny about the last two seats I got. Both cushions were perfect except the glue had failed. I fault JD for this because they can see what is happening from their dealers. The same with their powder coating always failing on welds and holes. I love PC but for some reason, every two or three-year-old deck seems to be failing at the same spots. JD must know this but doesn't do anything about it. They did finally start putting the hard plastic piece at the top of the seatbacks to assist in getting on/off of the tractors. In the old days, people were putting their hands on the top of the cushion to get on/off and that was pulling the glue away from the seatback.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I got the can of glue from Amazon today and will attempt my first reglue in the next day or so. I'll post pictures if it works. If it doesn't no one would want to see them. I have an idea in mind for the bottom cushion but I will have to examine the cushion and the seat pan. On all of the cushions that I have had come unglued, the vinyl seems to have pulled away from the foam in the cushion and leaves the vinyl loose around the bottom. I was thinking of cutting a square piece of aluminum that would fit up in that gap between the foam and the vinyl, with glue on both sides of it and then clamped for a day to cure. Then the cushion would be one piece with the vinyl. I am not sure how the flat aluminum plate would fit into the seat pan shape. But if all else fails, four screws could be screwed in from the bottom of the seat pan into the aluminum plate and that would hole the cushion in place. I hope the glue works because it would be a lot less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
What a disappointing day. I went to remove a bad bottom cushion on the two-part seat that was glued on but badly ripped. The back cushion was perfect. I simply could not believe how hard it was to remove the old cushion. It took almost an hour using every tool I own. I tried to insert a screwdriver under the rim of the old seat but all I got was a small hole where the driver went in. Finally, I used a razor knife and cut the cushion off but that left an unremovable rim of old vinyl. Where was this glue on the seat that I am trying to reglue? The old but good cushion that I was going to glue on seemed like the same design but was a bit smaller on every side by about 1/4-inch. It also was much thicker than the one that I cut off so I trimmed it down some. I glued it all up according to directions but I am not optimistic. Tomorrow I will take a look and see what it looks like. In the future, I am going to reglue only a seat that belongs on that pan. I think there might be variances from one year to the next or from one supplier to the next.
 

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Rudy you kinda lost me there ? Both top and bottom cushions fell off and I glued the back on the same seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah, after I reread it, it confused me too! I have parts of several seats that I was trying to put together as whole ones and that is where the different cushions came from different seat pans. Unless the cushions shrink over time, the one I tried to glue to another pan simply was not the same vintage. After I take the clamps off I can tell if it is usable with some cosmetic work. Coming soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I sold the X540 this morning! It was a nice couple in their '70's that came to look at it. He has owned a JD 185 for about thirty years and decided it was time to upgrade! He also wanted a bagger which I just happened to have that came on a GX345 so I swapped the decks and hardware for him. He is an old Army/VA man and it made me feel good to see it go to a guy who loves his equipment. He's like me in that he wanted to know how often he would need to get down on his knees to do things to it. Bad backs are no fun! I'm just starting to see a little green in my lawn so it won't be long now.
 

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He's going to think he's driving a cadillac with the power steering,they do need a steering wheel spinner because of the steering ratio! saves a lot of arm flailing! I have them on both machines but on the x540 it was a necessity not a luxury with the extra 3/4 turn lock to lock!
 

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Regular ol' Liquid Nails works to hold the seat cushions on. I did mine 3 or 4 summers ago. Hasn't budged a bit since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Don, I agree about the steering knobs. I have them on all of my tractors that I sell. Even with PS it makes a world of difference. I only have one issue with JD's PS and that is the wheel ends up in different places and not in the original spot where the knob is placed. I have been trying to think of a way to have the knob with a squeeze type clamp so that it could be easily reset to the original position. I was thinking something like a toolbox latch would work with the metal wire pulling down the handle part and then clamping under the wheel and be out of the way.
 

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I set the wheels straight and look at the position of the knob and where I want it when traveling straight. it if 's out quarter turn I crank the wheels all the way and continue turning the wheel quarter turn and return to straight to see if knob is where I want it, repeat if necessary!
It's one of the traits in hydraulic steering I learned from my boat rigging days, when a customer would complain his steering wheel wasn't straight,just keep turning it until it's straight! It's only a big deal if you have power trim controls on the wheel and need the switch where you can keep your thumb near the buttons while travelling at high speed!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I hear you Don. I do the same thing but figured if one of you guys would invent a knob that was easy on/off it would be quicker and less wear on the steering.
 

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anything I could possibly come up with that deere could have done to improve x540 the steering is not on my radar! My machine cuts around 42 cottages,a field with 25 boat trailers,at least 100 trees/gardens every week june/oct. and pulls a cyclone around for 2 weeks in the fall. nothing on the machine has ever failed in 5 yrs. since new! 500hrs now
if you think you can wear it out, your gonna have some sore arms/shoulders without a spinner on the wheel!
 

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I had always heard these called suicide knobs. Never knew the real reason why, so I looked it up: Brodie knob - Wikipedia

I never thought I needed one, but with all this talk, I might have to get one. Which ones are good or better?
 
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