Picked up an 18/6 today

1867 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by GT_80, Dec 13, 2011

timmymacnj

Discussion Starter · Dec 12, 2011

The Good news:

Picked up an awesome condition 18/6 onan twin today, with mower deck, plow, and moldboard, with weights and chains for 450. Runs great cant wait to play with it (long day didnt get to do much)

The Bad news: Stopped by GT80's house and saw his collection. All good feelings I had about my purchase were erased by Jealousy.

Bonus: Picked up a free go kart on the way (nothing fancy just the basic frame). And I picked up a Roto Spader same model as this one

This one was a lot rustier but looked in decent shape. Problem is I replaced the pull cord, and I think there is something wrong with the spring or something else, It retracts the cord ok, but does not have enough tension to pull the engine shaft (sorry wrong terminology but you get the point) back, after I pull it out it stays out while on the shaft. Ideas?

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kccraftswoman

· #2 · Dec 12, 2011

Hello timmymacnj,:howdy: It sounds like the spring needs to be wound up a bit or the spring might need a little lubrication or the holding retainers are bent down to much(tight). Or the spring might be sprung. good luck Tootles:050::050::bellyemot:bellyemot:050::050:

GT_80

· #3 · Dec 12, 2011

if the recoild eventually goes back in, probably needs lubrication. Nice to meet you and your dad! Sorry we couldn't play

Next time your up this way we will plan better.

GT_80

· #4 · Dec 12, 2011

BTW your 18/6 is in better condition than any I have bought!

timmymacnj

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 12, 2011

GT_80 said:
BTW your 18/6 is in better condition than any I have bought!

Thanks! no worries on the curfew, it was a long day on the road and didn't mind getting home. I wound the spring up about as far as it will go, andafter a couple pulls sounds like it broke. Anyone know if those springs are a standard size or a if there is a generic pull start i can replace the pull start with?

GT 80: you'll be happy to know she is safely under the porch out of the weather (no garage but i have a basement that is a walk out under the porch head high for about 15 feet.

This weekend coming up's project? Putting the hard top snow cab and the Plow on. Game on winter!

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GT_80

· #6 · Dec 12, 2011

too bad the guy didn't have the bracket for the snow blade

I really like the way that one plows! You would too!

Tractor-Holic

· #7 · Dec 12, 2011

Most of the Briggs with the "small" blower housing & recoil take the same spring...you can probably re-use the old one if it broke right at the end,by grinding the dove tail shape into the spring so it'll be able to anchor in the starter pulley or the blower housing...it probably didnt want to rewind because the starter clutch was likely corroded or rusted where it goes over the crankshaft--you have to take the clutch off,and use fine sandpaper to shine the crank up good and then lube it with some engine oil..

....most of the starter clutches had a small hole in the end that faces the recoil,that you can pump some oil in with an oil can,there is supposed to be a felt washer inside too,to retain the oil...if the starter clutch cant spin freely on the crank,it will not only fail to let the rope rewind,it can make the most horrible screeching noise known to mankind,and it'll spin with the crank,and rip the rewind spring and right out of it!...
I hate it when my Briggs does that,usually when I'm 500 feet from the garage in the woods,without fail!..

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timmymacnj

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 12, 2011

Tractor-Holic said:
Most of the Briggs with the "small" blower housing & recoil take the same spring...you can probably re-use the old one if it broke right at the end,by grinding the dove tail shape into the spring so it'll be able to anchor in the starter pulley or the blower housing...it probably didnt want to rewind because the starter clutch was likely corroded or rusted where it goes over the crankshaft--you have to take the clutch off,and use fine sandpaper to shine the crank up good and then lube it with some engine oil..

....most of the starter clutches had a small hole in the end that faces the recoil,that you can pump some oil in with an oil can,there is supposed to be a felt washer inside too,to retain the oil...if the starter clutch cant spin freely on the crank,it will not only fail to let the rope rewind,it can make the most horrible screeching noise known to mankind,and it'll spin with the crank,and rip the rewind spring and right out of it!...
I hate it when my Briggs does that,usually when I'm 500 feet from the garage in the woods,without fail!..

Google image searched starter clutch, its the part that i thought it was. How should the spin feel on it? I can hand spin it both directions with what feels like the same force. Should it free spin back ward? Thanks

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Plowthesidewalk

· #9 · Dec 12, 2011

The Bad news: Stopped by GT80's house and saw his collection. All good feelings I had about my purchase were erased by Jealousy.

LOL! LOL! LOL!

:howdy::howdy::howdy:

:drunkie::drunkie::drunkie::drunkie::drunkie::drunkie::drunkie:

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GT_80

· #10 · Dec 12, 2011

timmymacnj said:
The Good news:

Picked up an awesome condition 18/6 onan twin today, with mower deck, plow, and moldboard, with weights and chains for 450. Runs great cant wait to play with it (long day didnt get to do much)

The Bad news: Stopped by GT80's house and saw his collection. All good feelings I had about my purchase were erased by Jealousy.

Sadly, I see anyone with a steel snow cab or a loader and I get jealous... :dunno:

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timmymacnj

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 12, 2011

GT_80 said:
Sadly, I see anyone with a steel snow cab or a loader and I get jealous... :dunno:

I usually do my craigslist searches in the morning on my bus rid.e in. you can imagine my horror when I saw the ad title sears riding mower with loader- 450

the DAY after I just dropped 450 on a tractor!

I almost screamed. Then I clicked the link. Most relieved I've been in a while

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Oo-v-oO

· #12 · Dec 12, 2011

timmymacnj said:
Google image searched starter clutch, its the part that i thought it was. How should the spin feel on it? I can hand spin it both directions with what feels like the same force. Should it free spin back ward? Thanks

It should only spin on one direction. You should be able to hear/feel the balls inside moving around when you turn it backwards and it should lock up as soon as you turn it the other way.

Pull the blower housing, the little screen between the blower clutch and flywheel, then lay the engine on its side with the crankshaft pointing up and the flywheel on top. If you can't do this, spin the recoil clutch off the crankshaft and clamp it gently in a vise with the square shaft pointing up.
(this was assuming you had a horizontal shaft - I see now yours is vertical. Easy!)

Carefully pry the cover off of the recoil clutch. Inside there are some balls - they may be stuck with heavy grease or oil, or possibly muck and corrosion. remove the square shaft and balls and clean them up.

Clean up the thin end of the crankshaft, where the square shaft rides on it. Then, reassemble the recoil clutch. This is impossible to do unless it is oriented as I have described. Start by placing the square shaft in the clutch body, then drop the balls in the slots all the way around. You can use some very light oil but if it is too heavy it will glue the balls to the clutch body in cold weather and it won't work well. Grease is definitely out.
Place the cover that was pried off back on to capture the balls, and tap it back in place with a hammer. Then, reinstall the clutch if you had removed it and screw the screen back in place. Finally, drip some light oil down the hole in the center of theend of the square shaft - this will lubricate the end of the crankshaft and allow the square shaft to turn more easily. Again, no heavy oil and don't overdo it.

This is a very common task for a Briggs engine, especially one that sits around. The square shaft will get a little corrosion between it and the crank and not want to turn, then you get the scenario Tractor-Holic describes. Trust me, once you've heard one of these do the death squeal, you'll remember it! Luckily, it is generally an easy fix.

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jiveturkey692000

· #13 · Dec 12, 2011

Lol, Ive heard the death squeal. But I took it all apart and oiled it up and its all good.

Wheres the pictures of the 18/6????

timmymacnj

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 13, 2011

Oo-v-oO said:
It should only spin on one direction. You should be able to hear/feel the balls inside moving around when you turn it backwards and it should lock up as soon as you turn it the other way.

Pull the blower housing, the little screen between the blower clutch and flywheel, then lay the engine on its side with the crankshaft pointing up and the flywheel on top. If you can't do this, spin the recoil clutch off the crankshaft and clamp it gently in a vise with the square shaft pointing up.
(this was assuming you had a horizontal shaft - I see now yours is vertical. Easy!)

Carefully pry the cover off of the recoil clutch. Inside there are some balls - they may be stuck with heavy grease or oil, or possibly muck and corrosion. remove the square shaft and balls and clean them up.

Clean up the thin end of the crankshaft, where the square shaft rides on it. Then, reassemble the recoil clutch. This is impossible to do unless it is oriented as I have described. Start by placing the square shaft in the clutch body, then drop the balls in the slots all the way around. You can use some very light oil but if it is too heavy it will glue the balls to the clutch body in cold weather and it won't work well. Grease is definitely out.
Place the cover that was pried off back on to capture the balls, and tap it back in place with a hammer. Then, reinstall the clutch if you had removed it and screw the screen back in place. Finally, drip some light oil down the hole in the center of theend of the square shaft - this will lubricate the end of the crankshaft and allow the square shaft to turn more easily. Again, no heavy oil and don't overdo it.

This is a very common task for a Briggs engine, especially one that sits around. The square shaft will get a little corrosion between it and the crank and not want to turn, then you get the scenario Tractor-Holic describes. Trust me, once you've heard one of these do the death squeal, you'll remember it! Luckily, it is generally an easy fix.

A little tricky to visualize without ever doing this before, but after a quick youtube search, that was a perfect description! Im not tearing into it this weekend, but that is definitely the problem. Had a feeling it should not have felt the same going clockwise and counter. the clutch body is seized onto the shaft, so that will be fun. At least I know whats up. Thanks!

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Tractor-Holic

· #15 · Dec 13, 2011

I have had to file down the crank on many briggs,after someone (like me!) tried using a hammer to pop the flywheel loose,and it mushroomed the end of the crank some--then sand it smooth, so the starter clutch can spin freely counter-clockwise with no resistance.

....some later style clutches come with a shorter overall length and can be used,but first you'll have to saw off about 1/2" off the end of the crank!(Briggs factory instuctions!)..I have cheated and poked the disc out of the end and removed the felt seal,and let the crank protrude,rather than cut the crank,but it lets moisture enter and eventually rust the crank up,leading to the squaeling and spring failure...some blower housings wont go back on if you try that trick too,so you must either saw the crank off some or find a god old style starter clutch that had the longer "body""..I use STP engine or gear lube treatment to lube the crank where the clutch goes on it,it is thick and gooey,but doesnt seem to create too much drag for it to work well in colder weather...engine oil is fine too,but may need to be applied more often...

Yeah,this is an "EZ" fix--unless it spits the rope out FAR from your garage and you must PUSH the 1000 pound ingot tractor all the way back to the garage to fix it!...thats why it is best to always have at LEAST two tractors!...(one to tow the dead one back to the shop,and to use while the other one is "down"..)..overall I prefer a recoil start engine ,its nice not to have to worry about a dead battery when your far from the garage...I wish more electric start engines had a recoil for "back up" too...one day I had to use a rope on the engine pulley to start my 20 HP vertical Kohler on my Yard Man when the battery croaked ,it was NOT easy,but it beat having to push it 1000 feet or go get another tractor running to come tow it...its hydrostat sucks to push!..

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GT_80

· #16 · Dec 13, 2011

I hate when a tractor needs to be pushed too- When I was figuring out the fuel issues with the 18/6 I have I must have pushed it 30 times around my house! 700+ pounds tripping over the mower deck... oof, enough of that!

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