[JDM_WV]

Does anyone have the parts list for 115-1454 steel commercial drive wheels?

All three pins that hold the gear to the shell either sheered or simply pulled out of the metal.

Kid you not... I thought they were indestructible and still cannot figure out how they got enough torque or side-pull to cause it. Pic is below.

Not sure what's available, if I should just replace the pins with screws, or if it's cheaper just to get a whole new wheel... thus the parts list.

I have a sample diagram and list for the front wheels in this post: http://www.mytractorforum.com/680763-post43.html

Lawnboy/Toro seem to have removed the ability to get to some content on their site. I remember seeing it for the 115-1454, but can't find it anymore. The image in the post above is actually still there in a link to Toro's lookup site, but I cant find a way to get to the page that used to contain that image!

Thanks for any help!
-Jon

 

[JDM_WV]

Needing Part # for item 8 in diagram below...

Going to crack the shell open later to see if there's some kind of evidence of an end from those rivets/pins that broke off and is floating around inside. But, it looks/sounds like they're just rivets and simply pulled through the holes in the shell...

 

[JDM_WV]

Just a follow-up....

The pins appear to just be pressed into the holes in the shell metal; no expanded backside like on a rivet to retain them, there were no pieces from the back of the pins inside the shell.

I guess the torque from the drive engage/disengage over the year eventually deformed the holes in the thin shell metal and they let loose.

Pic shows the pins easily sliding out through the worn holes (viewing inner side of the shell). The pin ends are deformed from the bearing housing spinning on them while I finished mowing...

 

[Premix Junkie]

Are those newer style commercial wheels on an M? This is good info! Are they a direct swap?

 

[JDM_WV]

Yes and pretty much. An extra washer along with the bolt and spacer from the kit (assuming the space is correct; one of my pair was not), maybe change the shell bolts to cap screws. It's a 10590, not the older M (M21ZMR).

It took 5 minutes to swap an original wheel back on when it broke.

Long version: www.mytractorforum.com/814804-post82.html

The reallllly long story: http://www.mytractorforum.com/155-walk-behind-mowers/80792-commercial-steel-drive-wheels-95-10590-m-series.html

 

[dougmac]

I was just digging through my L-B stuff looking for something else when I came up on a paper copy of the exploded view with the part numbers that I printed off of the L-B site in 2008 ... so I quick tried to find this thread !!

Item 8 is 114-2751 ... $20.56 L-B List
Whole wheel 115-1454 ... $44.21

I just bought a pair of 115-1454 wheels from mowpart for $24.15 each ... interestingly, item 8 is $21.47 LB or $22.43 Toro on mowpart (both more than MSRP).


Doug

 

[dougmac]

A little off topic but ...

Now that I found this exploded wheel diagram again, does anyone know if the Toro 53-7740 Treaded tire from a 22040 will fit on these wheels ??

I like the performance of these digger tires, but they don't match the L-B 6" comm. fronts so I always thought I'd like to swap on Toro rubber if it would fit the wheels.

Doug

 

[podor]

I do not think so. The Toro has a smaller wheel and wider profile tire.

 

[dougmac]

I do not think so. The Toro has a smaller wheel and wider profile tire.

That what I kind of thought, just have never had the two side-by-side to see for myself. Always hoped it was maybe an optical illusion of the digger style tire.

Doug

 

[XR55]

I also had one of these wheels fail, that was new in April 2015. The cheap way of assembly, pressed together wheel side and gear pulled apart. It's still under warranty, but LB is out of stock and part is on back order. It's all ready been about a 2 month wait, so I called to make sure I would not void the warranty by doing a in field service repair. Some disassembly required by pressing out the studs from the metal gear and spacer and drilling out the holes to .250 inch size for installation of 1/4 inch button head cap screws with the heads turned down to fit into the recessed mounting holes in the gear. Then the 1/4 inch nuts had to have one flat ground thinner to clear the inner flange of the wheel half. Now the wheel assembly is bullet proof with the gear attached with grade 8 bolts/screws and stainless nuts.

 

[JDM_WV]

Thanks, Doug! And yeah, earlier I saw the mowpart price on the NON-geared wheel half and shook my head...

I was thinking of a similar fix to what XR55 outlined. I'll probably keep meaning to get around to it and end up just buying a new wheel...

I believe podor is right on the toro comm rubber not matching lawn boy's wheel size. I wanted the toro "radial" style for the front wheels when my mudders wear down but another poster checked the dimensions or something and stated they are indeed different sizes.