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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

So the wife got a good laugh at me yesterday as I was sailing down our hill unable to stop (I was in 6th gear at the time and luckily I was able to down "shift").

I took a look at the manual for my LT-1000 917.271811 and noticed that there should be only 1 1/2" between the operating arm and nut "a", but I had more like 2 1/2". So I took the tire off and began tightening it to 1 1/2" the brakes worked better (less stopping distance), but at 1 1/2 I can engage the parking brake..

So my questions are: 1) Do I have to sacrifice the parking brake for less stopping distance, or perhaps it is a different issue)? 2) Should I expect to be able to stop going down a hill in 6th gear??

Obviously there are simple answers to these questions such as you don't really need a parking break, unless you plan to idle on a sloped surface and just down shift when going down hills, but I just want to be sure I don't have another issue.

Thanks as always!:thanku:
Bryce
 

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I really dislike the combination clutch/brake. You have to give up engine braking to engage the disc brake.

I think the brake should be adjusted so that you can still set the parking brake. If there is not enough pedal travel, look at adjust the stop on the park lever. When approaching a significant downward slope, choose your gear in advance. Stepping on the clutch to change gears while flying down a hill is like putting it in Mexican overdrive.
 

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I took a look at the manual for my LT-1000 917.271811 and noticed that there should be only 1 1/2" between the operating arm and nut "a", but I had more like 2 1/2". So I took the tire off and began tightening it to 1 1/2" the brakes worked better (less stopping distance), but at 1 1/2 I can engage the parking brake..
Bryce,

Look again at the manual, it says 1 1/2"... "WITH PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED",
with the parking brake off, the measurement will be greater.

you should be able to get decent braking, and still have use pf the parking Brake.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. Yeah luckily I caught that the 1 1/2" is WITH the parking brake engaged.

I think it may be a bent brake rod. Here are some pictures of it. The first is a side view which I have indicated all the angles with arrows, the blue arrows is the one that I think is suspect. The second is a top view with the blue arrow showing the angle that I think is actually where it is not supposed to be bent.

Thanks again!
Bryce
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anybody have an idea of my Parking Rod might have one too many bends? The reason I ask again is that my clutch seems to have a hard time extended far enough to brake/start/change gears. I have to push a lot to do that.

I have already loosened the 1/2 inch bolt that is on the arm to near to it falling off, but the clutch still seems too tight..
 

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Bryce,

My LT1000 is at my sisters house, so I can't take a look at it - but take a look in your exploded parts section of the manual, maybe you can compare the bends...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the manual picture is too vague. It's not clear if what horizontal and/or vertical bends should or should not be there.

The reason I am so focused on this because I can't set my clutch and brake right. It's really tough to push my clutch in far enough to start it or brake. I have set the brakes to the 1 1/2 of the brake arm (with the parking brake engaged) as suggested by the manual and I've loosened the bolt that is on the brake arm that I believe effects the clutch's tension.
 

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Most newer style Craftsman's have a simmilar setup. I went out and checked my 98 Craftsman ( between rainstorms) and i do have a bend there and mine is adjusted to 1 1/2" inside measurement.

Whatever 1/2" bolt you loosened up tighten it back up. Loosen the nut up on the brake rod(adjuster) enough to easily set the parking brake.

Set the parking brake, than adjust to 1 1/2". If still a little tight adjust out in 1/8" increments. If you go past 1 3/4" it sounds like the rod is bent to much.

It's really hard to tell by the pic if the bends are correct.

If you have to tighten in much past 1 1/2", or it's not stopping you have a disc problem.

Walter
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So how many bends do you have in total? I have 3 (two vertical and one horizontal) which doesn't seem right. From what I have seen by browsing the Interwebs is a straight rod with a bend near the end that faces the front of the tractor.
 

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I have 3 also. First bend (red arrow) takes the rod away from the frame. About a 1/4" clearance, they can get bent to much here and drag the frame.

2nd bend (red arrow #2) goes up and to the left.

The 3rd bend (blue arrow) is bent so that rest of the rod now goes straight.


I hope this makes sense, if it doesen't rain tommorrow I will try to get a pic, and post it.

Walter
 
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