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I used it all: Sandpaper by hand, D/A sander, Jitterbug sander, wire wheel, electrolytic soak and some sand blasting. It more depends on the part size and type. If it fit in my blast cabinet, then I blasted away.
 

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SEARS TRACTOR COLLECTAH
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What is the best most cost effective ways to remove paint from the older 70's Sears tractors? Pictures would be nice too.
Sand blasting it would be best. Back in the 60's & 70's they used lead based paint, And it is difficult to remove. If you do not have access to a sand blaster just take a right angle grinder with a sanding wheel and clean it up. I have used that method for removing old paint and it works very well. Its best to do it outside, Old paint dust is very nasty stuff. You may want to start with a coarse grit wheel if the steel is pitted, and then switch to a fine grit. A good sanding is crutial to a quality paint job. - Brad
 

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Just remember the more aggressive the removal process, the more evidence you leave behind on the metal. Fewer swirl marks and gouges in the metal will make for a better finish, and filler primer will help with that a little.
 

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I have used on my 4.5" angle grinder a quality cup brush. It seems to get into places where even a flap wheel can not get to. Match the safe speed rating of the cup brush to the max speed of the grinder. Cheaper brushes may only goto 8,000 rpm safely while the grinder spins at 10,000. Those little wires can become painfull missles when they cut loose from the brush holder. When I use the cup brush method I try to wear coveralls, gloves & eye protection. A combination of flap wheel & cup brush is the way to go IMO.

HOPE THIS HELPS
 

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Depending on what your end goal is, meaning full restoration look, or "good looking" and presentable. On my 67, I didnt do a frame off, just took the seat spring, fenders, and hood off, took engine out and used a grinder with twisted wire (GT80's great suggestion) and spray can primed and painted. I couldnt be happier with how it came out. Wouldnt call it show quality, but I am putting it hard to work in the yard, so I just want it good looking but still work worthy. First time so i had a bit overspray and a little drip, but all in all way more than I would have expected from a can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Depending on what your end goal is, meaning full restoration look, or "good looking" and presentable. On my 67, I didnt do a frame off, just took the seat spring, fenders, and hood off, took engine out and used a grinder with twisted wire (GT80's great suggestion) and spray can primed and painted. I couldnt be happier with how it came out. Wouldnt call it show quality, but I am putting it hard to work in the yard, so I just want it good looking but still work worthy. First time so i had a bit overspray and a little drip, but all in all way more than I would have expected from a can.
Do you have any pictures you can post of it close up so I can get an idea of what it will look like?
 

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Sure I'll take some pics tomorrow, I'm sure gt80 will jump in with better info, one of hoods tractors ( i think it was miss Emma lee, the one he put duals on) he did a great spray can blue paint job i had the pleasure of seeing up close. Didn't believe him when he told me it was a rattle can...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sure I'll take some pics tomorrow, I'm sure gt80 will jump in with better info, one of hoods tractors ( i think it was miss Emma lee, the one he put duals on) he did a great spray can blue paint job i had the pleasure of seeing up close. Didn't believe him when he told me it was a rattle can...
Okay thanks a lot, I want it too look nice but it will be my work tractor so not extremely nice. And I have seen the Emma lee tractor and I never would have guessed that is rattle can. Does everyone clear coat there's when there done done?
 
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