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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys ,

I am no paint wizard first off and maybe this is a easy fix.

I have cleaned up my metal parts . Washed them with paint thinner. And coated them with metal primer (brown). After 2 coats of this about 10 mins in between coats. Let dry over night cool garage maybe 50. I use RustOleum spray paint Enamel . And coated the parts with 3 coats . At this point they look fantastic . Help Part . I hear and read that some of you put down a nice clear coat . So I bought the clear coat enamel the shinny stuff . I took the engine cover my largest part and went and sprayed a nice light coat and I was so happy:i_praying at first then Like a science project gone bad it just all of a sudden turned to a finish that all cracked and lifted off the new paint and the primer all cracked and was easy to wipe off. :duh:
What did I do wrong. I let the parts dry like two days and sprayed the clear coat lightly .

I was thinking that the clear would make like a protective coat while putting the parts back together it would wipe clean better than just paint.

Thanks all.
 

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Was your clear coat a laquer based spray? If so it probably dissolved the oil based Rustoleum.
 

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not quins. but sextuplets
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I have used the gray primer for outos that is Rustoleum branded...then over that I always spray their colors...never had any probs...
 

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Shop = My Therapy
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Sounds like a compatibility issue. Another thing: 50 degrees to cold for most any paint to dry very well. 60 or higher is ok - 70 or higher is best. The colder it is the longer it takes to dry properly if it ever does.
 

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I have had better luck with Rustoleum by warming the cans in 100* water before using them. I have never clear-coated over color, just used it to protect bare metal.
 

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If my memory is right. You don't want shinny paint to clear coat over. I heard some where you should dole the paint before clear coating. Just something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well today was a re paint day .

Its been a few days and I brought the wheels in the house and in front of the wood burner room. Very dry yet again it cracked with a few spays of the same color paint .

So I painted the biggest part the Hood today in the hot sun. I sprayed 4 coats with 6 to 10 mins apart. My best so far. Im working on cleaning the rims back up for tomorrows weather. Wish me luck .

Picture coming soon . Thank you guys for your hints.
 

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You might have a problem since you washed the parts in paint thinner. It can be very slow to evaporate (especially through Rustoleum.) Give your parts more time between different coatings (ie, more time between when you prime and when you paint).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the note on waiting in between primer and paint .

Its finally warmer here and I sprayed the Fenders and Foot rests . Dries fast in sunshine so waited about 6 mins in between coats . Now on to wiring issue .


Parts are all painted .....maybe a few bolt heads but no biggie.

Thanks all .
 

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not quins. but sextuplets
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I have had better luck with Rustoleum by warming the cans in 100* water before using them. I have never clear-coated over color, just used it to protect bare metal.
puttin cans in anything 'HOT' can cause them to explode.. even if u think the water is 100....it can b hotter than that..
 

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not quins. but sextuplets
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Thanks for the note on waiting in between primer and paint .

Its finally warmer here and I sprayed the Fenders and Foot rests . Dries fast in sunshine so waited about 6 mins in between coats . Now on to wiring issue .


Parts are all painted .....maybe a few bolt heads but no biggie.

Thanks all .
I let all my paint dry overnight.... 6 minutes is NOT enuf time....read the label on all the cans....

when it is 'dry to touch' .. the paint hasn't shrunk .. all paint does a shrink when drying.....this is wat is causin ur cracks..
 
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