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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello: Just bought a 830, not sure of the year , think they made them in 1974-5. Didn't get the serial number yet and still over at the sellers house. I do remember him telling me the tag said it was Made in Germany.

It is in pretty decent shape, started up right away cold and no smoke but there are some things I want to do right away and that is change all fluids and filters since it was sitting for some time and not used much and grease every zerk fitting i can find. Don't know if the front wheels need to be packed but want to do that since I want to use it for some front loader gravel, hauling. It has two new front tires.

. I asked the owner what various levers and buttons were for and he ididn't know too much, just had a tiller on it and used it for that. It has a factory front loader and the bucket cylinder is weeping a little so need to get that rebuilt.

Do you think John Deere might have on file a PDF they could send me of the owners operators manual (for the green fee of course) or ???

Anyone here own one of these and could give me some tips? Don't want to change fuel filters and get air in the lines so need advice how to do this right and purge air if I do so. Thanks
 

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Welcome to TBN
I remember selling those tractors when they were new. Dealer very seldom ever had to perform any warranty repairs on them. When you replace hyd filter also check/clean sump screen . There's no way to change fuel filter without getting air in fuel system but air is easy to bleed out. Operators Manual CD-ROM OML29383CD 830 Utility Tractor JD Tech Info store 1-800-522-7448
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tx Jim. Pape Equipment, a JD dealer up here in Oregon told me I can get a manual printed for around $37 so am ordering it today. Only trouble is, it takes about 3 weeks to get here. I got the serial number off the tractor last night, getting my trailer today to go get it. It appears this was made in Germany according to ID tag.

What I will do while waiting for manual is warm up the engine, drain oil put in new filter and oil, remove the hydraulic cylinder for the front bucket which is dripping at the seal and have that repaired.

The previous owner seemed to think the transmission oil and hydraulic oil was altogether, so not sure about that and will ask the Dealer if NAPA would carry all the filters that need replacing or if they are a special size that is only made by JD. I am sure the JD brand will be a lot more $$$ than a generic NAPA.

When I pick up the tractor today i will ask the seller how to bleed the air out of the fuel lines. he told me he ran out of fuel once and had to do it. He said there are 2 fuel filters, one looked like the old fashioned sediment bowl type and he pointed towards it and said that is where you bleed the air. The other fuel filter was a large square glass bowl which I never saw anything like that before but guess that is taken off and a paper like filter is placed in there? When I take the filter out will drain all the fuel out of tank so we start with fresh fuel.

What I like about this tractor is unlike the thin steel/plastic stuff out there now for the smaller tractors is that it has some genuine iron in it. Though small, it looks and feels like a real tractor.


I want to drain the radiator and put in fresh coolant and just hope the drain **** is not rusted shut which happens so often when things sit for years on end without ever being exercised.
 

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You're correct JD 830 with 3 cyl engine was built in Mannheim. I remember going to Houston port where they were unloaded from a ship to haul back to N Central Tx dealership. While hyd oil is drained check sump screen(key 30).
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again Tx Jim. I got the manual ordered and got some prices on the filters and surprisingly they were close to NAPA prices so will just get them at the JD dealer.

A first for me was the square glass fuel filter. When they guy at the counter said you buy the entire glass, I thought ouch, this is gonna leave a $$$mark but was surprised to get a price less than $15.

Picked up the tractor but it was raining so the big tire on left side started spinning when it hit the 2 x 12 edge I had over the regular deck on the incline. I let the seller load it since I wanted to practice on open ground rather than loading an unfamiliar machine. I asked him if it had a differential lock so that one wheel would not slip but he didn't know where the lever was. It looked like it was a lever under the seat on the left side.

After a second attempt at a higher speed we got her on board.

I was thinking of taking out the injectors and have them professionally cleaned since the tractor was used so seldom for such a long time. Drain all the fuel from the tank, new filter and clean injectors should make her purr like a kitten..with fresh coolant and hydraulic oil, engine oil and filters, I will giver her a test run in the field. I might take the front wheels off and pack the bearings since not sure when they were done last and with a lot of front loader work coming up, want to make sure the bearings are sound and well lubed.

Some other issues are the temp and fuel gauge not working and also the rpm and hour meter seemed dead. I think there were at least 2 red button lights on dash and neither came on when key turned to on position. I am guessing they are oil pressure and amp gauge. Not sure if there is a fuse box (should be) will check for one and replace the bulbs for starters. If no luck there guess it is the sending units which is territory that is uncharted for me.
 

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If it was my tractor in lieu of pulling injectors I'd install some diesel fuel conditioner or injector cleaner in fuel tank & run engine a while. Yes diff lock control is LH side of trans case operated by either hand or foot. IIRC there is no fuse box but a circuit breaker is located under dash on LH accessed more easily by removing cowling behind hood. Yes red lens on dash are for alternator & oil pressure. Engine oil pressure sending unit is located at RH rear of engine. Tachometer is cable operated
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I was thinking of running an injector cleaner, a friend who has a working knowledge of diesels recommended Sea Foam... swears by it. I think that may take several tank fulls to run through though and with a tractor this old and sitting around so long without being really used the injectors might be so fouled up a cleaner might not really get them clean.

I had a diesel mechanic who was not much of a fan of injector cleaners do my injectors on my Ford 6.9 . He told me you really need that high pressure tool to get them workng like they should. There is a possibility they could be wore out too since no way of knowing how many hours on the engine, the hour meter stopped at just over 2000. I will talk to my mechanic where I live now who specializes in diesel engines see what he would recommend on the injectors.

I notice so many tractors for sale with all different brands have hour meters that are not working. Is the culprit usually the cable that breaks or is it the meter inside? I would really like to get that RPM gauge working again and a new one would probably be no longer available and if so would be pretty spendy.

I am going to start the healing of the tractor today by warming up the engine and draining oil, getting new filter and oil in her and take off the bucket hydraulic cylinder which is leaking at the seal. Lots of things to do while waiting for the manual to arrive
 

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You bought a good solid tractor.
Dash lights may be a simple as burnt out bulbs.
I suspect the cable since tach and hour meter both do not work.
Transmission and hydraulics share the same oil. If it's like my 2030, dipstick is inner rear of right foot board (back corner), knurled knob. Holds about 8 gallons.
Transmission is collar shift. You have to come to a complete stop to shift gears or ranges. Left lever is range, right is gears.
It might have rear hydraulic outlets (maybe used for the loader, or loader could have it's own) with a lever to operate by right fender.
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info Zebra 5. After warming up the engine yesterday, I dropped the oil and filter but the engine had some hunting issues and even died once while I was warming it up. It started up right away through when it died and I suspect the fuel filter may be clogged. The previous owner was not really good at maintaining this old girl. When I bought new filters fuel, oil and hydraulic at the dealer (The air filter was still real clean) the clerk mentioned that when i drain the fuel tank to watch for rust which may have settled and clogged the line somewhat since the tractor is after all nearly 45 years old and there were issues with rust in tanks.

I will be introducing air into the fuel system when i relplace the fuel filter so without having the manual yet, might need a little guidance on how to do that. The mechanic at the dealer said to make sure my batteries are fully charged and to crack open something close to the injector pump and start cranking but not to exceed 30 seconds to prevent starter damage.

The seller mentioned he once ran out of fuel and used something next to the fuel pump to prime the pump. I noticed a little lever next to the block but unsure of what the procedure would be.

Hope the radiator drain **** is not rusted shut which is real common with older equipment, want to drain everything and put in a 50/50 mix.

Will hold off taking the injectors out and run a tank of Sea Foam cleaner through it first as suggested by TX Jim. Found 3 zerk fittings under the front axle system for greasing but surprised to see no grease ports for the front loader supports and hydraulic cylinders. I am used to my track hoe which has about 20 of
them. Guess you are required to take the pins out manually to grease them or ??? I am just used to making sure any metal on metal has grease on it.
 

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Look under the fuel tank and see if it has a drain valve. If so, drain a little to get any water out.

When you change the square fuel filter (clip comes off by squeezing finger tabs at the top. You will see a bleed plug at the top corner of the block the filter goes on. Loosen it. The fuel pump has a priming lever. Work the lever to get flow out of the bleed plug. If the lever does not seem to pump, bump the starter to get the fuel pump cam to a different spot. Now try starting. You may have to loosen a couple injector lines at the injector to bleed air out.


Greasing; Axle king pins will have a fitting on the back side of the "knee". Axle pivot pins (two, front and back) bell crank will have a grease fitting. Each end of the drag link will have a grease fitting. Rear axle housings at the end, top will have a fitting. 3pt hitch links will have 3, 1 on left, two on right.


When you repack the front wheel bearings, at reassembly spin the wheel as you tighten the nut to "set" the bearings. Tighten to 35lb-ft. Then back off the first cotter pin hole.


Check your clutch pedal for free play. You want 1" measured at the top of the pedal.


What brand/model loader? I would think it has grease fittings for every pin. Some pins are greased from the end.
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #11
THANKS Zebra 5, you made my day. I got all the grease fittings except the bell housing one and will get that when i drain all the hydraulic fluid and put the new filter in. I put the fresh oil and filter in today and got the drag line grease fittings freed up. One was pretty cranky , had to unscrew the fitting and dig out the dried up grease in the port and squirt some rusted nut spray and WD-40 in but got her broke free and grease fitting working properly.

Tomorrow I will drain the radiator, put in new coolant and also the hydraulic system. I sprayed nut buster on every nut i could see holding the front and side hoods and will take them off first thing and give the engine a good cleaning with Gunk spray. It actually is pretty clean except for the injector pump.

With fresh diesel, Sea Foam additive and filter hope she runs smooth after a couple of hours..

The front loader is a John Deere with the ID tag in place, think it was put on in the factory in Germany. I cannot find any grease fittings and the pins are the bullet type ends with big cotter pins. I can tell there was grease applied one time many moons ago but it is very hard. I will just take the pins out, clean them and slather a lot of high pressure grease on them.

I think the steering is a little too loose since there is about a 1/3 turn of wheel between resistance points. I can live with that since the cost to fix the steering parts would be pretty expensive.

I also freed up the seat so i can slide it back enough so my right leg knee does not hit the loader valve frame. It has a big tear at the corner on the front so will see if I can find a cover to put on it.

While I got the hoods off, will try to access the idiot lights and replace all the bulbs and see if that brings anything back to life. Will try to remove the cable for the RPM and Hour gauge.
 

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Hood removal is pretty easy. Front side screens have to come off. Pay attention the which hole the spring is hooked to, unless you just let them hang. At the front on each side is a nut/lock washer that has to come off . At the rear on each side is two bolts only the rear most one needs to come out, the forward one holds a "nut plate". Remove gas and radiator caps and lift off the hood.


For cowl, battery door has to come off unhook the spring and lift it off. The special nuts the battery door hinges on have to be removed. Five cap screws each side, forward most two only have to be loosened. their hole is slotted.


Holder for idiot lights twists off the lens from the bottom. There is a spring, make sure not to lose it. Bulbs twist out of lower 1/2. Lens are just setting in the dash now, bottom 1/2 and spring holds them in.
 

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JD loader would not have been installed in Germany. All JD loaders are dealer or owner installed. I know because I have no idea how many frt end loaders I installed over the years. Be sure to grease fittings under frt axle on bellcrank bushings(key 3). JD Loader should have grease fittings in the loader frame or on rod end.
 

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Most my 2030's steering play was from the tie rod ends. I replaced the outers on both sides and that fixed a lot of it. Inners seemed good so I have not replaced them.
I had earlier replaced the drag link and the bushings; top & bottom of the knees and the bell crank. These changes did not make much difference.
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #15
Got all the hoods off today, new fuel filter and hydraulic filter installed. Hydraulic fluid drained (discovered there are two drain plugs). Got coolant drained out of radiator, drain **** was not froze up to my surprise but having troubles with the fuel drain ****. No rust and even after several applications of frozen nut spray and WD 40 over several hours, it will not budge. Turning counter clockwise like the radiator drain. I may just siphon out the remaining diesel and add fresh fuel with strong Sea Foam injector additive and see what happens.

I found the nut to loosen by the filter when I put it in and have it open. When I add the fuel will crank the engine till see fuel squirting out of the nut, tighten and then continue cranking till it fires. Not to exceed 20 seconds at a time to prevent starter damage.

Got the front wheel spindles greased and all steering connections in the front (total of six) Rear axle at the outer hub greased....20 pumps but not seeing grease oozing out of seal so guess it is doing that inside the hollow axle?

Could not find the bell housing grease fitting. Is this directly under where the batteries are? I am currently trickle charging both batteries at home, found and removed the 3 bulbs for warning lights, one was broke at base, the other had fallen out of the holder and laying at bottom. RPM cable I disconnected from gauge but it appears not broke. it will not turn with my fingers. However when i spin the end coming out of the gauge, the rpm needle moves so not sure what is going on here. Removed the front bucket cylinder to take to shop for resealing.

I was very dirty when I got home but got a lot done, only skinned one knuckle when removing 2nd Hydraulic drain plug.
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #16
TX Jim: I double checked the front loader pins today, total of 4 on each side with cylinders and including bucket. There are no grease fittings. This is a genuine JD loader .

The serial number of tractor is 158968 L The JD tag on Loader reads Type E 0037 with a serial number of 012190W.

Tomorrow I am punching out the pins at all locations and adding high pressure grease out of a can i bought today at the auto parts store.

This is an oddity and i would have liked to have seen zerk fittings but there just aren't any, not even at the ends of the pins which are bullet shaped at the ends, kept in place by beefy cotter pins.

If this loader was added by a dealer, they were cutting corners IMHO
 

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Thanks for correcting my mistake. Model 37 loader is a ""low end"" model JD loader that I've only seen a few times. Researching model 37 parts catalog reveals "no grease fittings". Who was it that stated "you can't teach an old codger new tricks"??? Tractor serial # indicates it's a '75 model.
 

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Cantankerous Hoghead
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Discussion Starter #19
It was not your mistake. You just didn't have all the information. And speaking of old Codgers, the computer just flashed todays date and I remembered today is my birthday. I am officially an old Codger now that I am 65.

I am looking for a used tooth bar to bolt to the bucket to help pick up some bigger base rock a friend is giving me that is out in her field. I can see there are 8 pair of holes near the edge of the bucket lip to bolt teeth onto.. might go that route. I can buy a new one Made in US on Amazon for around $280.

I am hoping the loader being "low end" can lift 1000 lbs. or at least 700. This loader is made for picking up silage and manure , not for rock i realize and will be used only for a few days picking up the rock and then for very occasional light duty use. The single curl hydraulic cylinder I took off yesterday to have resealed sure is beefy though. Real heavy duty.

That is why I am going to take all the pins out today and give them a good slathering of grease. Even with light duty though, all pins/bushings should have grease fittings. Metal rubbing on metal under high weight just doesn't sound right to me, no matter how hard the steel is.

Have any recollection of tire pressure for the front and rear tires on this tractor? Thanks for all the info you have been giving me. The Zebra has been real helpful too.
 

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TX Jim: I double checked the front loader pins today, total of 4 on each side with cylinders and including bucket. There are no grease fittings. This is a genuine JD loader .

The serial number of tractor is 158968 L The JD tag on Loader reads Type E 0037 with a serial number of 012190W.

Tomorrow I am punching out the pins at all locations and adding high pressure grease out of a can i bought today at the auto parts store.

This is an oddity and i would have liked to have seen zerk fittings but there just aren't any, not even at the ends of the pins which are bullet shaped at the ends, kept in place by beefy cotter pins.

If this loader was added by a dealer, they were cutting corners IMHO
This does sound like a low dollar loader :tango_face_surprise. Can the pins be cross drilled, then rifle drilled and tapped for grease fitting? Or are there cotter pins on both ends of the pins? Or can the pin bore be drilled and tapped for a grease fitting? I constantly grease my loader, more than the every 10 hours recommended.
 
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