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Thanks Joel! That means it won't clear the U-Haul 5'x9'. I would need their 6'x12'. The Home Depot 5'x8' may work.
Is the 5' dimension, an exterior dimension? 5 x 12" = 60", so if the interior dimension is 5', you should have 3" to spare.

With two people(assuming one, or both, knows what they are doing) it should take less than 5 minutes to remove the mower deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Is the 5' dimension, an exterior dimension? 5 x 12" = 60", so if the interior dimension is 5', you should have 3" to spare.

With two people(assuming one, or both, knows what they are doing) it should take less than 5 minutes to remove the mower deck.
Yep, U-Haul's 5'x9' is actually only 4'9" inside- 57" exactly. Pulling the deck may be the best route, but a 6'x12' isn't that much more expensive. I just want it to go as smoothly as possible.

To remove the deck, do you just pull the two pins on the back, slide forward to unhook the front and slide back to disconnect the driveshaft?

Here's a good one- Last time I sold a tractor, the guy who bought it showed up in a shiny brand new short bed pickup truck with a toolbox in it, no bedliner, didn't bring straps, and brought the world's shortest and flimsiest ramp. I gave him a couple old ratchet straps because I'm a nice guy, but I was not helping him load it.
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Yep, U-Haul's 5'x9' is actually only 4'9" inside- 57" exactly. Pulling the deck may be the best route, but a 6'x12' isn't that much more expensive. I just want it to go as smoothly as possible.

To remove the deck, do you just pull the two pins on the back, slide forward to unhook the front and slide back to disconnect the driveshaft?

Here's a good one- Last time I sold a tractor, the guy who bought it showed up in a shiny brand new short bed pickup truck with a toolbox in it, no bedliner, didn't bring straps, and brought the world's shortest and flimsiest ramp. I gave him a couple old ratchet straps because I'm a nice guy, but I was not helping him load it.
I would get the bigger trailer. The deck is easy enough to remove but is one heavy SOB to lift and maneuver around.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
I would get the bigger trailer. The deck is easy enough to remove but is one heavy SOB to lift and maneuver around.
Yeah I think I'd rather be safe than sorry. The bigger trailer also has a lower deck height which might make things easier.
 

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Joe, that has got to be a 3225 or something else. 3235s were built from 2001-03 according to tractordata. Look this thing over very carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #167 (Edited)
Joe, that has got to be a 3225 or something else. 3235s were built from 2001-03 according to tractordata. Look this thing over very carefully.
Steve I was looking at this myself. I think the 9 in the serial number might indicate the year of manufacture, not the model year. I found this online-

Screenshot_20191231-181837_Drive.jpg


Screenshot_20191231-183315_Drive.jpg


The serial number listed is 1K019G20013 which puts it in range of being a 2000 model year.
 

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I found that document on Cub Cadet Parts and More but I will be sure to check this thing over carefully.
If it's really a 3235 it must have been right at the end of alum rear install. 3235s are listed as 2001-03 and my 3240 is listed as 2001. Mine has 111 in those first numbers and has a cast iron rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
If it's really a 3235 it must have been right at the end of alum rear install. 3235s are listed as 2001-03 and my 3240 is listed as 2001. Mine has 111 in those first numbers and has a cast iron rear.
I'm thinking tractordata might be wrong in listing '01-'03 as production for the 3235. Those screenshots I posted list '00-'03 as the model years and that document was written by MTD. So if the 5th digit is a 9, it was built in 1999 for the 2000 model year, so it's a very early 2000. Your 3240 had the 5th digit as a 1, so it was built in 2001 for the 2001 model year.

So the 2001 model year (including late 2000 production dates) would've been when the axles went from aluminum to cast iron. And if you look at the same document, the 2001 model year 3235s are listed as having cast iron transaxles.

Screenshot_20191231-190914_Drive.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #171

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I'm thinking tractordata might be wrong in listing '01-'03 as production for the 3235. Those screenshots I posted list '00-'03 as the model years and that document was written by MTD. So if the 5th digit is a 9, it was built in 1999 for the 2000 model year, so it's a very early 2000. Your 3240 had the 5th digit as a 1, so it was built in 2001 for the 2001 model year.

So the 2001 model year (including late 2000 production dates) would've been when the axles went from aluminum to cast iron. And if you look at the same document, the 2001 model year 3235s are listed as having cast iron transaxles.

View attachment 2442722
Makes sense. T
Here's a link to that document if you want to check it out. Looks like a lot of other useful info in it as well.

Cub Cadet Parts, Cub Parts, Troy-Bilt Parts, Zero-Turn Parts and MTD Parts › ...PDF
3000 series specification sheets 1998-2003 - Cub Cadet Parts N More
Thanks for the info. Good detective work.

On the spool valves: the expensive part is piecing all the little parts together. If you can find some like I did with the top linkages it will save you some dough. A GT salvage yard would be awesome if you have one near.

They stack together with little connector sleeves that allow for oil flow between the spools. When you get ready to expand I'll find the thread I used to guide me thru it.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Makes sense. T

Thanks for the info. Good detective work.

On the spool valves: the expensive part is piecing all the little parts together. If you can find some like I did with the top linkages it will save you some dough. A GT salvage yard would be awesome if you have one near.

They stack together with little connector sleeves that allow for oil flow between the spools. When you get ready to expand I'll find the thread I used to guide me thru it.
Thanks, I actually impressed myself finding that pdf.

I figured the nickel and dime stuff would be what makes the hydraulics expensive. There was someone parting out a pair of 3000 series on craigslist last summer. Now I'm wishing I'd have bought the valves off of them.

A GT salvage yard nearby would be awesome but I don't know of too many. There is a place called Patton Acres nearby but they are pretty much online only and I think they mostly deal in older equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Actually just checked out Patton Acres website and turns out they do deal in newer equipment. They have a couple pages of 3000 series parts. They even have this-

 

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You might bop on over there. More likely to find parts that they haven't listed yet. It'd be nice to find a whole setup to expand to plow lift and power angle with the steel lines and hoses and buy it together.

I had a parts place on FB quote me $275 for everything awhile back and feel that was a fair price.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
You might bop on over there. More likely to find parts that they haven't listed yet. It'd be nice to find a whole setup to expand to plow lift and power angle with the steel lines and hoses and buy it together.

I had a parts place on FB quote me $275 for everything awhile back and feel that was a fair price.
It sounds like an awesome place I'd like to check out and it's only about a half hour away. But judging by their website it sounds like they don't want people just stopping by-

"Patton Acres is your online warehouse source for hard to find used and new old stock garden tractor mower parts.WE ARE ONLINE AND NOT OPEN TO PUBLIC ,you can pick up parts here if you call for appointment"

I still might call and ask if I can check it out in person. Worst they can say is no. I'd love to be able to buy all the hydraulic stuff as a package. $275 sounds very fair to me.
 

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The ad lists serial number 1K019G20013. Year of manufacture is indicated by the 5th digit in the serial number and in this case it is a nine for 1999.
1 = engineering revision
K = November
01 = first day of November
9 = 1999
G = Brownsville, Tennessee plant
2 = Assembly line 2
13 = 13th machine built

So, this machine was the 13th built November 1,1999 on assembly line #2 in Brownsville, TN.

That is a good looking machine for the money. We will need pics when you get it home.
 

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It sounds like an awesome place I'd like to check out and it's only about a half hour away. But judging by their website it sounds like they don't want people just stopping by-

"Patton Acres is your online warehouse source for hard to find used and new old stock garden tractor mower parts.WE ARE ONLINE AND NOT OPEN TO PUBLIC ,you can pick up parts here if you call for appointment"

I still might call and ask if I can check it out in person. Worst they can say is no. I'd love to be able to buy all the hydraulic stuff as a package. $275 sounds very fair to me.
That was from one of the FB marketplace sellers. I had no way of knowing if it was legit or not so I was very hesitant.

Maybe go over to Patton and give them a heads up to call you if they have a 3000 plow tractor come in or one with extra spools.
1 = engineering revision
K = November
01 = first day of November
9 = 1999
G = Brownsville, Tennessee plant
2 = Assembly line 2
13 = 13th machine built

So, this machine was the 13th built November 1,1999 on assembly line #2 in Brownsville, TN.

That is a good looking machine for the money. We will need pics when you get it home.
That's great info. At first I thought my 3240 was an April fool but then realized it was built on the 11th.
 

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Hi, I have two 3000 series and absolutely love them. I have a broken back and bad knees and the step thru design makes getting on and off doable for a broken old man. I bought my 3185 first and have mowed with it for four years, the only problems have been electrical and basically related to being a 20 year old unit. So taking a little time to clean/replace corroded terminals takes care of most issues. The power steering is wonderful in a way that you won't fully appreciate until your back hurts. The 3185 has a Briggs 18 HP engine that I switched over to full synthetic oil and added an oil cooler. I enjoy doing maintenance on my equipment, I'm a retired industrial maintenance man so it's just second nature. I paid $600 for the 3185 with 1065 hours on the meter. Currently 1185 and going strong. The 3100's don't have diff lock. My slightly newer(19 years old) Cub is a 3205, this is my lawn mower now. It has a 20HP Kawasaki liquid cooled engine, which makes perfect sense to me. Maintaining proper engine operating temperature with liquid cooling is why 70-100 year old farm tractors are still doing their jobs, even if only in a semi-retired capacity. I used to build and drag race Kawasaki motorcycles, so I have a soft spot for Kawasaki engines. I run a 48" deck because I too have many things to mow around. The 3200's have diff lock, I went to larger tires up front and custom wheels and automotive tires in the rear, just because I was born a gearhead. I switched both Cubs over to LED lighting. 3000 series have tail/backup lights but many times they are missing on a used unit. The way they mount puts force on the outer lip of the plastic lens that have gotten brittle with age and people spilling gas on the left one. So don't be afraid of a 3000 with missing tail lights. I paid $850 for the 3205 with 762 hours on the meter. My .02 worth. Happy shopping.

Bill View attachment 2441424 View attachment 2441425
I like and concur with your thinkin'! I was into Cub Cadets for a few years with my 107, 2146 w/38" deck (bought new) and a GT2550 (bought after a year of use with a torn up engine which I replaced). I too, have gone to Kawasaki BECAUSE they're water cooled. I also went to John Deere for them. It's hard to find a great engine in the smaller tractors. My LX178 is only 15 HP, but it's got twin cylinders and is water cooled. MY 445 is 22 HP, twin cylinder, water cooled, diff lock, and drive shafts for the rear axle and also to the deck. Who could ask for anything more?????
 

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I forgot to add, with the John Deere machines, you'll get a FAR SUPERIOR deck!
 
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