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Thank you for sharing your experience. May I ask you a question.....If my lawn is approx two acres how much money in chemicals will I use per year using your regimen? The reason I ask is I'm trying to figure out if it's cheaper to do it myself or to hire a company to do it.

Thank you again for the information,
Dan

I will answer as best as I can and I am not going to get a calculator. The biggest variance is going to be the difference between wholesale and retail pricing on fertilizers.

Figure you will need 300#s of fertilizer, 6 bags (coverage rated at 16,500 sq feet 50# bag)
If you go with a good 3 way commercial strength such as Vessel, Trimec, Trimec 992 or MecAmine D. @ 1.5oz /1,000 you'll need a little over a gallon.
I use T-zone but it is a LOT MORE EXPENSIVE but smokes hard to kill weeds like creeping charlie and the true yard scourge, wild violets.
I always use a non ionic surfactant to make herbicide work better and reduce drift, Li-700, 16oz/acre or a quart.
I spray Prodiamine 65WDG, a Pre emergent with broadleaf weedkiller at the same time, figure 2#s.

Go to Do my own pest control and you can figure out prices from there. 3 way herbicide you might be able to get at a Co-op or golf course supply if they will deal with you.
Do It Yourself Pest Control Products & Supplies | Do My Own
 

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The above is for Spring treatment, the yard should be fertilized again in the Fall.
 

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Dag gone you guys are serious about this stuff.

I have dethatched for the last two years because I've had tractor problems and I couldn't mow weekly. BUT I dethatch and then mow over it to chop it up more.
 

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When you de-thatch, you want to remove it, that's the purpose of de-thatching.
I'm sure that's better (and I don't mean that sarcastically or anything). But I don't have a bagger for my current tractor, and bagging everything with my walk-behind would probably take quite a while.

So for dethatching, the most practical option for me, anyways, is to go back over it and mulch it. It seems to me, rightly or wrongly, that at least this still gets it out of the ground, where it may be "choking" the grass a bit, and lays it back on top, like what's happening with the grass clippings normally.

Again, just my impression, but it seems like this should still be better than nothing, anyways.

But now I do wonder if maybe just aerating is maybe a better idea anyways.
 

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I'm sure that's better (and I don't mean that sarcastically or anything). But I don't have a bagger for my current tractor, and bagging everything with my walk-behind would probably take quite a while.

So for dethatching, the most practical option for me, anyways, is to go back over it and mulch it. It seems to me, rightly or wrongly, that at least this still gets it out of the ground, where it may be "choking" the grass a bit, and lays it back on top, like what's happening with the grass clippings normally.

Again, just my impression, but it seems like this should still be better than nothing, anyways.

But now I do wonder if maybe just aerating is maybe a better idea anyways.
That's my thinking.
I mentioned this in another forum once and thought they were coming to my house with torches...😅
 

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Uh-oh, time to warm up the vats of defensive boiling oil :)
 
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I have the tall 5-blend spreading fescue grass. I powerake (dethatch) and plug it every spring. My lawn gets fungus every year to some degree, but the year I skipped getting it poweraked, the fungus was terrible. My lawn looks pretty good, no reason the change the recipe I use.
 

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I'm sure that's better (and I don't mean that sarcastically or anything). But I don't have a bagger for my current tractor, and bagging everything with my walk-behind would probably take quite a while.

So for dethatching, the most practical option for me, anyways, is to go back over it and mulch it. It seems to me, rightly or wrongly, that at least this still gets it out of the ground, where it may be "choking" the grass a bit, and lays it back on top, like what's happening with the grass clippings normally.

Again, just my impression, but it seems like this should still be better than nothing, anyways.

But now I do wonder if maybe just aerating is maybe a better idea anyways.
I'm with you on that. Get the "grass mat" out from the roots and mulch it smaller so it may blow into the neighbors yard. 🤪 Just kidding....... it will decompose faster if it's smaller.
I have a trac-vac bagger but with the size of my yard I have to dump it every 3 passes around the yard. I still have to get the double pulley for my power-flow then I can dethatch and get rid of it.
I used to dump it in my garden all year and use it for weed control. BUT I haven't had a garden in 5 years now due to life circumstances. Maybe next year. :rolleyes:
 

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I would just love to get rid of my dandelions... I have a FINE crop, and digging them out individually is simply not an option. Way too many of 'em, and three acres and change..... If there was a commercial demand for them, I would be rich. :D
 

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I would just love to get rid of my dandelions... I have a FINE crop, and digging them out individually is simply not an option. Way too many of 'em, and three acres and change..... If there was a commercial demand for them, I would be rich. :D
Dandelion wine. ;)

I leave them in the yard for the bees. I live out in the country so it's no big deal. They go bye bye after 2 mowings anyway so.............
 

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I have a pretty decent dandelion crop too. I finally decided to try and do something about them.

Currently, there are too many to make manual-removal practical. I had some Ortho Weed-B-Gon max, so yesterday I sprayed that on the ones in the front yard. Today they're looking more wilted. Hopefully they'll die, but I'm prepared for maybe needing a follow-up application. I used my manual pump-sprayer, since this stuff isn't a concentrate.

I am also buying a bottle of 2,4-D concentrate weed killer, which is apparently effective on dandelions. That's one of the ingredients in the Ortho stuff. I also bought some 80/20 surfactant. I've never tried "roll your own" weed killers before.

Since this stuff is a concentrate, hopefully I can use my hose mix-sprayer. That would be must faster for treating a large area, vs the manual pump-sprayer.
 

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I would just love to get rid of my dandelions... I have a FINE crop, and digging them out individually is simply not an option. Way too many of 'em, and three acres and change..... If there was a commercial demand for them, I would be rich. :D
I use Scotts Turf builder. When I first started using it. The neighbor noticed that his yard was full of dandelions and I had basically none. He started using it too. It seems expensive, but the alternatives aren’t much better if they work.
 

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I use Scotts Turf builder. When I first started using it. The neighbor noticed that his yard was full of dandelions and I had basically none. He started using it too. It seems expensive, but the alternatives aren’t much better if they work.
Do you have a link to specifically what you use? That sounds interesting, especially if it could help get rid of existing ones.
 

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Do you have a link to specifically what you use? That sounds interesting, especially if it could help get rid of existing ones.
The new blossoms get curly and don’t finish blooming. I still dig some plants around the flowers, since the fertilizer may affect them too, at least it did to the Lily of the Valley.
 

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I use to dethatch once a year and only in the fall before overseeding. But it caused more problems than anything really. So all i do is plug aerate....again only in the fall and that's it. The ones that detatch numerous times a year are overfeeding the lawn more times than not and/or they are not sure what they're doing to begin with quite frankly. We have a few in our neighborhood who fall into both categories. My pull behind dethather has been sitting unused for almost 7-10 years now and my yard looks better than ever and zero weeds. Fine fesque mix and cut between 2.75 and 3.25 max.
 

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The new blossoms get curly and don’t finish blooming. I still dig some plants around the flowers, since the fertilizer may affect them too, at least it did to the Lily of the Valley.
Cool, thank you! This year I also learned about the stand-up claw weeders, which apparently make manual-removal of dandelions easier. But they're seemingly sold out most places, or extra-expensive if you can find them. One example, from Fiskars:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Deluxe-Stand-up-Weeder-4-claw/dp/B0030MIHAU/

I'm hoping maybe I can spray them and kill many of the dandelions. Then get one of those weeders at some point, and try and keep up with removal, after getting the quantity of them under control.
 

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Cool, thank you! This year I also learned about the stand-up claw weeders, which apparently make manual-removal of dandelions easier. But they're seemingly sold out most places, or extra-expensive if you can find them. One example, from Fiskars:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Deluxe-Stand-up-Weeder-4-claw/dp/B0030MIHAU/

I'm hoping maybe I can spray them and kill many of the dandelions. Then get one of those weeders at some point, and try and keep up with removal, after getting the quantity of them under control.
That is my goal as well. Get them under control and then manually pull the few that pop up before they go to seed. I have this one, and it works quite well:

2501935


My front yard is getting there. Every morning around break time (I'm still working from home) I look for the ones that have flowered, and spend 15-20 minutes plucking them. Get a little exercise during break time, and accomplish something in the yard. The back yard still has too many for that, but hopefully one day...
 

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