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That there's worth fixin'
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I recently got an old ss-16. It's been sitting long time. Wondering if it's worth the effort to ressurect it or not. I have never driven an Onan powered Sub. I have several sears tractors the oldest a 59 and the newest a 72ss-15 all are Briggs except the 67 Sub10. So I'm not at all familiar with the Onan motors. With so many tractors already do you think it's worth the bother of trying to get it running and if yes then what steps would you recommend? The motor turns by hand there's a pile of crud at the bottom of the flywheel probably a mouse ghetto. What do you Onan guys think? Thanks, Rick

 

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Deere 330 Killer
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the onan on my ss16 (when running) is the smoothest, strongest engine i have ever used. worth the work? depends on whats wrong with it. GT_80 has lots of experience working on these, GT, Small Fry and Searstractorfan are the guys to ask
 

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If it was mine I would see how good it runs. Then I could make up my mind which way to go.

Hooking up a spare tank (sitting on the dash) so it can gravity feed works great for testing to see how it runs. You might need to clean the points also.

Becarful removing the gas line were it hooks to the carb. It's plastic and breaks easy.
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #4
Good tip about the temp. fuel tank. Looks like the fuel pump is built into the carb?. I'll probably at least take the top off the carb to look and see how crapped up it is but quick question....

Does the starter use a separate solenoid? or is it part of the starter. And what is the finned alum. part on the left side batt. tray? A voltage reg.? As I said, I'm really starting at square one with these Onans but if I can get it to crank over I'll have to try to get it running.

I'll check pammar's site for a wiring diagram, wire harness it's been chopped all up
 

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It's worth it. These are strong but pricey engines with regards to parts. Briggs parts by far are less expensive and easier to pick up. Few other members have tricks for getting around some of the common problem that are prevalent on these motors such as fuel delivery, coil etc... I re-built my 18 onan twin, have any questions just let us know.

I don't know if it'll help, but I had a Q&A thread for some of the hang ups and issues that I went through during my restoration:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=91248
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=106006
 

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its most def worth getting it to run i think.... i myself to just to see if it'll start and run for a short time i'd hook a battery up see if it would turn over.. if it does check for spark then if it has that just spary some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it'll start... it wont sit and run unless you spray the carb cleaner in it but it'll at least tell you if its worth anymore effort to get running or not. dont keep spraying carb cleaner in it to keep it running eventually it'll probably melt a piston.
 

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Good tip about the temp. fuel tank. Looks like the fuel pump is built into the carb?. I'll probably at least take the top off the carb to look and see how crapped up it is but quick question....

Does the starter use a separate solenoid? or is it part of the starter. And what is the finned alum. part on the left side batt. tray? A voltage reg.? As I said, I'm really starting at square one with these Onans but if I can get it to crank over I'll have to try to get it running.

I'll check pammar's site for a wiring diagram, wire harness it's been chopped all up
Think old car, points, coil, etc. The coil needs power to it then you can put jumper cables on the starter stud and frame to crank it.

Yea the pump is part of the carb, finned thing is a reg, separate soleniod.

This is wiring for a 73 ss/16, should be pretty much the same I think.

 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Fry, the diagram helps a ton, solenoid is apparently missing. Im reading through the threads that Joe posted. Thanks Joe!
 

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I have an onan powered tractor and I like it so far.

Just a thought both of my hoods have the wiring diagram underneath. Look there and see if yours is still intact as that would be the correct one for your tractor.

Plastic gas tank so around 1975-1976 I think.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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PLastic tanks are 76 to 79... Small fry's descriptions about the parts are correct. The starter does use a separate solenoid... Similar to a ford solenoid (napa number st404 or st403) or one used on a sander on plow trucks. Do you have the model number on the tractor? it should be on the battery 'firewall' or on the frame by the shifter. I have many manuals on PDF if you want one for your machine, the model number will help.

Feel free to ask anything i had five of these in the last year!!!

I love the onans, little maintenance when they get older but they are worth it! Mainly keep the carb clean, change the fuel filter a couple times a year.
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies everybody. I'll dig up a solenoid from my pile. I think I have a ford style one somewhere. I noticed the spark plug wires dated 3rd quarter 1975. This I learned from dating old car plug wires so guessing it's probably 1976? Tractor Model no. is 917.25950.

I have to take the tin off to clean out the mess then I'll try to crank it and check for spark, I'm assuming the points are in the box at the top of the motor because the coil wire goes to that box. If I do get it going it will be thanks to MTF Members!, Rick
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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76 would be right since it has the plastic dash.. the fiberglass dashes were 74 and 75
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Thanks for the replies everybody. I'll dig up a solenoid from my pile. I think I have a ford style one somewhere. I noticed the spark plug wires dated 3rd quarter 1975. This I learned from dating old car plug wires so guessing it's probably 1976? Tractor Model no. is 917.25950.

I have to take the tin off to clean out the mess then I'll try to crank it and check for spark, I'm assuming the points are in the box at the top of the motor because the coil wire goes to that box. If I do get it going it will be thanks to MTF Members!, Rick
I had the manual for that model, i think I gave it to A1CNC when i sold him my 1976 SS16. He may be able to copy it an send you a copy.
 

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I thought that thing looked familiar!

If this is the same model then here is your wiring diagram. I am not near my scanner right now but if you need this manual I will scan it and send it to you when I get a sec.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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I thought that thing looked familiar!

If this is the same model then here is your wiring diagram. I am not near my scanner right now but if you need this manual I will scan it and send it to you when I get a sec.
i forgot to scan that one before i gave it to you... If you do scan it, send a copy my way :)
 

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James,
I will add that to the to-do list, that is the list that comes before the hony do list!:D
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks AC! I'd love a copy of the manual when you get the chance. I'll PM you with my email address, Rick
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #18
Hey A1CNC, By the sound of your screen name you must be into CNC machining. I Ran CNC for 25 years here in Maine the last 15 of it programming with SmartCam and Mastercam. We made stuff for US Navy sub surface ships and aircraft carriers. We had mostly Mori Seikis. Rick
 

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Hi Rick,
Yes I am trying to make a living as a 1 man machine shop. I have a couple leadwell machining centers, a cnc router/ plasma cutter, and a small cnc lathe.

Are you retired?

Eric
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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Discussion Starter #20
Are you retired?

Eric
Retired from the machine shop but I work on houses now. Roofing, Siding, that sort of thing, Oh and mess around with Sears Tractors too.
Good Luck with your business. A1 is a good name, It would be the first in the phone book too! Rick
Hey, you should design and sell electric 3 point for our tractors!
 
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