As I see it, the issue comes down to comparing the spec # of the WH motor to the spec# of the Case motor.
WH motors are cross-mounted I believe and use a belt running from pulley on the crank stub to deliver power to the tractor and there isn't anything going on with the flywheel side.
Case spec's a crank stub of a certain length and diameter to drive the pump and the flywheel is drilled to accept the PTO clutch. Other issues are likely not significant. The wiring should be ok and so should throttle/choke cable routing and lengths. Exhaust pipes should interchange, fuel line is a non-issue and all that's left is the mounting bolt location and possibly a different oil pan height. The air cleaner should also interchange if the WH one is too tall. That's all I can think of but the man to talk to is Boomer because when it comes to Onan's, he knows 20 times more than I do.
Thank,s Castoff, I'm going to check the fly wheel next, however the crank will work I just have to trim it and good to go! I just want to make sure every thing will work before I do anything. The other thing I noticed is a module next to the coil I think I would have to relocate due to the exhaust running over it. I'll keep you posted.
That would be the regulator/rectifier module IMO and it is best to keep it in a cool spot. Some were mounted under the tin so they would be in the path of the air cooling the engine and some were made with large cooling fins as a heat-sink. To me, there's a message with both of those situations.
Just got off the phone with Boomer (thank,s Boomer), he was a big help! It's
going to work, I cut the crank and ground the key down a bit and the love joy is on. There will be problems with the starter being on the opposite side, it rubs the hydraulic line but I think I can tweak it. The stock PTO will also work, no issue there. It's sitting in the tractor I just need to start checking things one at a time. The tractor it came out of is a Wheel Horse 516 H, I'll keep you posted on the progress.
well I got the hydro line bent around the starter which means I don't nave to swap oil pans, just need a longer return line. The air breather hits just like the stock one did so I cut that out and she's in! Next up is exhaust then wiring.
I'll get some up today, wiring bogged me down big time last night! Would turn the key and nothing, sent 2 hours checking everything only to find out the voltage regulator needs to be mounted to the frame:banghead3. Now it turns over so I can start rewiring, there's a few things I need to get rid of like the fuel gauge, oil pressure, and the seat safety gauge. Just wondering if anyone has used the electric PTO and what their thoughts where?
I finally I got some time to get back work on the 446. I just need to tie up some loose ends and this project is done. One problem I have is the linkage for the choke faces the wrong direction for the cable. Can the linkage be swapped around or is there an auto choke I can use? I don't want to swap carbs if I don't have to, this motor is running very well and I'd like to keep it that way.
Boomer I just got it to work, I switched the stationary bracket around and got rid of the barrel for the cable and put the cable directly to the choke. It worked perfect. Thanks for the offer, I'm sure I will need some parts from you in the future.