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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Really like the forum, lots of excellent information on here. Would like some input on my engine. I bought a used Onan P220 to re-power my Toro Groundsmaster 117 (just bought the Toro also this summer as a fun little project). I bought it without any engine, and came across this Onan for a decent price ($300). It came out of a Craftsman mower, (according to the decal on the engine) that is all I know. I have no idea on hours. The engine starts and runs good, the problem is it smokes. I didn't notice until I mowed with it the first time, any time the engine is under load, it smokes (blue) steady. My question is, am I doing more damage by running it like this? Would like to wait until winter to do a re-build. Thanks for any input.
 

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It might have stuck rings if it sat a long time,and if your not using SAE 30W oil it might use some oil or smoke a lot more with lighter weight or multi-weight oil..

You can use a higher viscosity oil in warmer weather to reduce smoke and consumption,or add some oil fortifier like Lucas or STP to thicken it more ..it might get better as you run it too,the rings might free themselves up as its run the more you use it..adding a teaspooon or two of Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank and a pint in the crankcase (do not overfill it!) and running it for a few hours,then changing the oil to SAE 30W is what I would do first..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It might have stuck rings if it sat a long time,and if your not using SAE 30W oil it might use some oil or smoke a lot more with lighter weight or multi-weight oil..

You can use a higher viscosity oil in warmer weather to reduce smoke and consumption,or add some oil fortifier like Lucas or STP to thicken it more ..it might get better as you run it too,the rings might free themselves up as its run the more you use it..adding a teaspooon or two of Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank and a pint in the crankcase (do not overfill it!) and running it for a few hours,then changing the oil to SAE 30W is what I would do first..
I am using straight SAE 30W, also tried the Marvel Mystery Oil, about 6oz. in the crankcase, (did not put any in the gas tank yet), but have not run it much, just a 5 minute test run since I put it in. It did burn from full on the dipstick down to the add mark after about an hour of mowing, before adding the MM oil, so I will see what it does this week, I am just worried I am doing more damage to it, or not?

Do you think I could go thicker than the straight 30W? Thanks
 

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I'd stay with SAE 30 unless its very hot where you are,and seeing your in MN,you probably will be needing to use a lower viscosity soon when frigid temps start returning..--if its still in the 80's or higher SAE 40 could be used for a few more weeks...or add some oil stabilizer/thickener like Lucas....you might not be able to run Lucas or other thickeners in the cold weather though..The Marvel oil will thin the crankcase oil and clean it,so you may gain a bit of viscosity when you change the oil..I'd run it awhile with the Marvel to give it a chance to work..since it thins the oil some natuarrly it'll consume more faster--hopefully after it cleans the rings and crankcase the engine will have better ring seal and compression when you replace the oil..



I dont like using multi-weight oil in air cooled engines,but I have used 15W-40 diesel rated oil in my engines ,and they seem to start OK in the cold weather with it,better than SAE 30.....

If it took an hour of use to consume enough oil to hit the add mark,I'd say its not burning that much ,a pint or so of oil consumption on an old engine in hot weather usn't too unusual..I usually re-ring my engines when they start fouling spark plugs,or smoke so bad you cant see...I've had many that smoke some and use some oil and when you remove the spark plugs you have to use a wire brush to find the electrodes,but they keep right on running,as long as you dont let the oil level fall too low..
 
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