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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 317 with a P218G in it. The engine was running, we turned it off and then it wouldn't start. The oil was checked (by me) before & after, it was full. One thing I noticed is that since I changed the oil, it was staying very clean. I don't know if the oil pump quit, or if it was something wrong with the filter. It wouldn't even crank over good. I had the starter replaced last year.
I took it to John Deere, they said the engine is seized up.
I haven't done an autopsy on it yet.
Has anyone got any idea how much it would cost to rebuild if I do it myself?
I know we don't know what all is tore up yet, but a guesstimate would be nice.
I found a rebuild kit for $1000, but if the crank and mains are messed up that would be a waste.
 

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Parts will likely run around $600, + machine work(crank turn/bore if needed/valve grind.. That assumes that valve/lifters/guides/camshaft are reusable.
 

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Never heard of an engine seizing after it was shut off, pull the plugs and see if maybe the carb flooded and locked the engine, crank it with the plugs out and see if gas shoots out the holes.
 

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Question for you is was it running normal before you turned it off? If so I agree with gmaster that they normally don't seize after they're turned off! Try his recommendation and then see if you can turn it over by hand, you said it won't start is it cranking? If cranking it isn't seized!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Question for you is was it running normal before you turned it off? If so I agree with gmaster that they normally don't seize after they're turned off! Try his recommendation and then see if you can turn it over by hand, you said it won't start is it cranking? If cranking it isn't seized!
It turns over by hand, but it is very hard. I haven't pulled the plugs, but that was about 45 days ago & it still cranks very slow, it hits the compression stroke and stops, then you can try again and it does the same. I replaced the starter relay and battery and that helped absolutely none. As for it running normally before it was stopped, we were running 2 mowers and I was on the other one. But my grandson is usually pretty concientious about paying attention to the tractor. I thought the starter that was put on last summer had gone bad and took it back to John D. The mechanic said there was now way the starter would turn ot over, it was way too hard to turn by hand. After I try it a few times, the starter getts pretty hot to the touch, so I think it's loaded pretty heavy.
 

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Well something is at least dragging, maybe a broken ring or stuck valves since it stops dead on the compression stroke!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well something is at least dragging, maybe a broken ring or stuck valves since it stops dead on the compression stroke!
It will go ahead and roll past the top of the stroke when you hit the starter again, so I don't think a piston is hitting a vlave or anything like that.
 

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I would pull both plugs then and do a compression test on both pistons! Leak down test if possible as that'll give you a better idea if you've lost a compression ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would pull both plugs then and do a compression test on both pistons! Leak down test if possible as that'll give you a better idea if you've lost a compression ring.
Compression test I understand, Leak down I assume means how long it take the compresiion to bleed off?

I do better with pre 70's small block Chevys and 1966 389s ( don't ask me why about the 389s).
 

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Yes the leak down lets you know how long to bleed compression. Here are the specs for compression test. No specs for the leak down but I would test between cylinders and see if they are close.
 

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If you have an electric PTO clutch ,the bearing may have gone bad,and locked up the engine .....I have never seen an engine sieze when not rotating ...good luck,Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay....I will go ahead and ask the question since I am also an owner of a 1966 389 engine too! :sorry1:
My second car (the first was a 64 Fairlane) was a 1961 Impala Bubble top. It had a 283 I used to wind out to around 6000 rpm regularly ( that engine same was still running fine when I last saw it). My next ride was a 1966 GTO. Being 17 I drove it the same way. And spun inserts in it 3 times. It had a spun insert when I sold it (major mistake). I wish I still had it. That was mmmmm 40 years ago. We won't speculate as to why I was winding them up that tight. The ride after the GTO was a 1970 AMX (that was one bad little girl).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
By the way, since we have the 318 running, plus 2 other machines. And all I really use this for is mowing. And I have several other projects, including a granddaughter playing softball. I'm not going to set the world on fire working on this. So if I'm a little tardy responding, it's not because I don't appreciate anyone who is trying to help. Besides, it's over 100 here right now, and my barn isn't airconditioned. :swow:
 

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My second car (the first was a 64 Fairlane) was a 1961 Impala Bubble top. It had a 283 I used to wind out to around 6000 rpm regularly ( that engine same was still running fine when I last saw it). My next ride was a 1966 GTO. Being 17 I drove it the same way. And spun inserts in it 3 times. It had a spun insert when I sold it (major mistake). I wish I still had it. That was mmmmm 40 years ago. We won't speculate as to why I was winding them up that tight. The ride after the GTO was a 1970 AMX (that was one bad little girl).
Yeah, I've got two 66 Pontiacs...both Bonnevilles. One has a 389 - 4 bbl. engine and the other is a 421 with Tri-Power and a 4spd. Those Pontiac engines are not high revers....they are low RPM torque monsters though! :thThumbsU

Top end should stay below 5500 RPM to stay safe unless you have professionally blueprinted and balanced the engine. Lots of fun ....hope you get your Onan straightened out. I have been running one in my '85 316 tractor since new and she still runs like a top! :trink39:
 
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