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Gravely1964
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To me what is strange. But also kinda not as well. Is that the last rod bearing and inclosure plate main bearing got really tore up. There is clear material transfer to crank on that crank bearing. Which indicates a hot seize there. Also if you look at the oil holes it shows signs of material going threw all the rod bearings. Its possible a metal shaveing came outa some where and worked its way threw causeing damage. Like I said my 818-T spun that same bearing. All I did was clean up crank. Install new bearing and to this day it still runs great. Granted I was sweating bullets when I first started it but that went away after it ran for abit. And was great.

Just start with the way your going, have a machine shop check it over and fix you up. Make sure the oil pump pumps oil before you start it. And make sure its as clean as it can be going together. and it should be a ok for years.

Oil i won't touch with a 10 foot stick. Everybody has there 2 cents. And as long as theres oil in it you'll be ok
 

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Discussion Starter #162
If when you mesh the gears together does the damaged one jump when you hit a bad spot? If yes take a file and file out the the bad spot. True transmission of power happens a little below the crest of the tooth (top) and a little above the root of the tooth (bottom).

I fixed many a gear that would make noise this way. When your done take it to a wire brush on a grinder to blend the flanks together. Flank is the side of the that does the work.
I checked the gear, and it doesn’t seem to jump at all. Regarding the crankshaft timing gear, the crest of some of the teeth don’t appear to sit at the root of the timing gear. This appears this way because the outer edge—up to 1/8”—has become worn and beveled. This is just on a select few teeth, with the worst one shown in pics 3, 4, and 5 below.


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Discussion Starter #163
Thanks for the oil tips and recommendations. As far as the oil pressure light, I know it was working earlier because I had previously cleaned the terminals and replaced the bulb. I recall checking it upon startup too. I also have a Cole Hersee light and buzzer combo waiting to be installed. I think it would be nice to have an oil pressure gauge though. Is it possible to have both the light and a gauge?

Good advice on making sure the oil pump is working before I start the engine. Can I verify that by manually turning the crank and doing a visual inspection? I’ll also make sure everything is as clean as possible.

Gravely1964– glad you’ve had success after replacing your spun crankshaft bearing. Hopefully mine will be the same.
 

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Is it possible to have both the light and a gauge?
Sure. You'll need to graft in some kind of T fitting, to put oil pressure to both the light sensor and the gauge.
Good advice on making sure the oil pump is working before I start the engine.
It's called pre-oiling. Used to be common practice, not sure how much now.

On some older aircraft engines, the starting sequence is to leave the mags off, mixture idle-cutoff, and crank the engine until you see oil pressure. Then go mags hot and mixture rich. This ensures that you've gotten oil into all the bearings before there's any load (to speak of) on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Good idea on the T fitting. I should have thought of that.

Cool trick with the pre-oiling!
 

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Looks like something got to those gears To cause that damage. On the gear with the 2 holes through the sides on either side of the bore. Looks like there is some metal transfer in the root of one of those teeth. That should be removed or will cause damage to the mating gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Looks like something got to those gears To cause that damage. On the gear with the 2 holes through the sides on either side of the bore. Looks like there is some metal transfer in the root of one of those teeth. That should be removed or will cause damage to the mating gear.
Good eye. I think I see it now. Looks like the root of the teeth from about 3 o’clock to 7 o’clock have extra material. I will probably just pick up a good condition used gear to be safe.
 

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Here’s a couple pictures of the starter gear and flywheel. View attachment 2453063
View attachment 2453064
I probably won’t get much done for a few days due to work. In the meantime, is there some kind of degreaser you all would recommend to clean the outer parts? And anything recommended for cleaning up the carbon off the cylinder heads, old gasket sealant, etc?

Thanks again to all of you for your help.
I dislike the looks of that gear considering how far you've gone with everything else thus far.
And with current pricing, gasoline is the best degreaser I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
So the local machine shop can’t fix the crank right now. Their machine for that is down and they are awaiting parts, which will be a month or two. The next closest shop is an hour away, but I spoke with Boomer and it looks like he’s able to get me a replacement. Super nice guy and really helpful.

Below is a pic showing the damage to one of the journals, and you can see how badly that main bearing seized up on the shaft. So is it likely pieces of the main bearing caused the damage to the journal, as well as tore up the timing gear? Just trying to solve the mystery, as well as figure out why that fuel pump rocker arm and spring was sitting in the pan.
FCAD1A5B-B5E8-466D-BF52-31D25FD03EA0.jpeg
 

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Wow, there was certainly quite a bit of heat, and friction there. Yes, Boomer is a nice guy, and very helpful. I have bought parts from him in the past, along with Onanparts.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
So no real updates as of yet. The machine shop said it’d be a couple days when I dropped it off last Monday, but as of Friday they hadn’t touched it yet. In the meantime I did buy some front attachment brackets, as well as have located a rack and pinion steering assembly to buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I saw some front tires (18 x 5.7 - 8) with split rims that are listed as filled and weighing about 40lbs each. Is this a common practice for the front tires?
 

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I saw some front tires (18 x 5.7 - 8) with split rims that are listed as filled and weighing about 40lbs each. Is this a common practice for the front tires?
Not sure how common. Bigger machines often run with loaded tires. More often the rears than the fronts, in my experience, but every little bit helps.
 

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Just browsing around on FB Marketplace. Was the Li walk behind a good model?
The LI is the "intermediate" speed version. If you have to have only one, and it's not a two-speed axle, the LI is probably the best all-around machine.

That one looks pretty decent. If it's in ok running condition, 275 is a pretty good price.
 

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How does the Li compare to an L8 or commercial 12?
The LI has a gravely T-head engine. 6.6 or 7.6 hp. The comm 12 has a kohler 12 hp engine. That's not completely apples to apples; the T-head is a torque monster. Depending on the use case, one may be better than the other.

The LI has a single-speed axle. The L8 and comm12 have 2-speed axles. The high and low range of the axles kind of bracket the single speed of the LI.

I have LIs, L8s, and a comm12. They're all good machines.
 
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