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Discussion Starter #341
Glad the starter sprocket gap looks ok.

I like being able to see the pressure. For protection since it’s a mechanical gauge, I ran some old polybutylene tubing I had laying around through the frame of the tractor up behind the dash. I then just slid the copper tubing into place. I also added one of those oil lights with a buzzer, and it will definitely get one’s attention should an issue occur. The CCKA manual says the oil pressure switch activates at 8-10 PSI. That seems awfully low, but that’s what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter #342 (Edited)
This evening I used a laser tachometer to check the RPM, and it was maxed out at around 3,000 RPM. I adjusted the governor and tweaked the carb so max RPM is right around 3600, and the minimum RPM is around 1800 RPM.

I then took the Gravely for a spin down the road and later realized I have a transmission leak. I am guessing the leak is coming from the oil seal behind the clutch assembly?


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I also realized the axle on the side that is leaking appears to have an opening for a rear PTO. Did all the 816’s have this? Does anything other than a rear tiller hook up to this?

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That oil leak pretty much has to be the seal behind the clutch hub. It's not difficult to replace, once you get to it . . . but that takes some work. The good news is that it's the forward clutch. That means you only have to pull off the side of the case, you don't have to remove all the gears as well. OTOH, if you're going to get that far into it, it's probably worth checking the other seals, and the bearings while you're in there.

I usually advise caution when thinking about diving into an 800 trans. But you've just been through a major engine overhaul. I have no doubt of your ability to handle it :) OTOH, you can probably run it for quite a while without dealing with it . . .

The right axle definitely does have the special block for the PTO extension. It was not standard equipment. To my knowledge, the only attachment that ever used it was the rear tiller.

Normally, those blocks are worth something, but there's supposed to be a double-ended splined shaft in there. Yours is missing. I've never seen them sold separately, so I suspect they're supposed to be a unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #344
I’ll probably end up replacing it sooner than later. The spinning clutch ends up splattering oil all over everything.

I was hoping that seal would be accessible by just removing the outer assembly. Looking at the IPL, it appears there is an oil seal on both sides of the clutch hub. If only the outer seal is bad, it looks like it can be replaced without separating the transmission. Am I looking at it wrong?

Upon reassembly, is a new transmission gasket recommended? Also, I see those seals are $12-$15 when searching the Gravely part numbers. Anything special about those seals compared to ones I’d pick up from the auto parts store?
 

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Yes. I used a new cover gasket when I replaced my seal. There is only the one inner mount seal as I recall.
 

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If only the outer seal is bad, it looks like it can be replaced without separating the transmission. Am I looking at it wrong?

Upon reassembly, is a new transmission gasket recommended? Also, I see those seals are $12-$15 when searching the Gravely part numbers. Anything special about those seals compared to ones I’d pick up from the auto parts store?
There's only one seal. I don't see how to replace it without pulling the trans cover. You then remove the snap ring holding the clutch hub in place. After that you can knock out the seal and install a fresh one.

The seals are readily available. Nothing special about them. It sounds like you've already found crosses, but if you want the PN's I used, let me know.
 

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Well theres an outa and a inner seal. The inner seal inside clutch hub can be changed from the outside. The larger outer seal you have to split the case, and deal with that snap ring that is joke either to get out
 

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Discussion Starter #349 (Edited)
The seals are readily available. Nothing special about them. It sounds like you've already found crosses, but if you want the PN's I used, let me know.
I found some National part numbers in this thread, so I should be good. Thank you though. This thread also references two seals.


 

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Well theres an outa and a inner seal. The inner seal inside clutch hub can be changed from the outside. The larger outer seal you have to split the case, and deal with that snap ring that is joke either to get out
Argh. I'm wrong, Steve's right. Sorry about the misinformation. I had these parts in my hands a couple weeks ago, and still got it wrong.

Based on where your oil is leaking, it looks to me more like the inner one, but a bit more investigation needed. Certainly don't take my word for it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #352
As I’ve mentioned earlier in this thread, I’m interested in changing the linkage on my PTO so it operates in the forward direction. I picked up the part that I need.....and then some.

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Discussion Starter #354
I ran my Gravely a little today and I didn’t notice any oil coming out of the forward clutch oil seal. The leak seemed pretty steady when I ran it before. Anything reason why it would leak before amd not now. I checked the level, and it’s at the top of the fluid level plug. Could a little too much oil in the transmission have caused a temporary leak at that seal?
 

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The only possible thing I could think of would have been if you were running it for a while. The trans. filler cap has a tiny hole in the top center for venting. If pressure in the trans. were to build from heat, and couldn't be vented due to the hole being clogged, it might escape from another area (a seal), bringing some oil along with it. Again, just me thinking out loud.

Or a little grit got caught in the seal but worked it's way back out?
 

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Discussion Starter #356 (Edited)
interesting theory. I recall checking the hole in the cap when I filled the transmission, so I don’t believe it was plugged. I’ll check it again though. For now I’ll keep an eye on things and hope for the best.
 

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The only possible thing I could think of would have been if you were running it for a while. The trans. filler cap has a tiny hole in the top center for venting. If pressure in the trans. were to build from heat, and couldn't be vented due to the hole being clogged, it might escape from another area (a seal), bringing some oil along with it. Again, just me thinking out loud.

Or a little grit got caught in the seal but worked it's way back out?
what about a worn area where the seal contacts the shaft, if the shaft had any movement in or out the seal could be in contact with the smooth area sometimes then the worn area at other times. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #358
Another good theory, but I hope that’s not the case. That’d be a bigger issue than I’d prefer to tackle right now.
 

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The shaft through the outer seal (the splined one which the clutch goes on) shouldn't have any in/out play. It's located internally by thrust bearings which are up against the cases. If those thrust bearings are blown up, it's conceivable that you'd get some in/out play, but in that case you have bigger problems than a seal. I've never seen those things break that way. I think that's highly unlikely. The trans would be making all kinds of noise.

The inner seal goes around the clutch hub, which is snap-ringed into the big side bearing. Zero play there.

My favorite theory for your oil leak, which then stopped, is a small bit of dirt which got in there, possibly combined with an old and somewhat dried out seal. If I remember the history, you got this machine, and pretty immediately had the engine problem. So it hasn't run much until recently. I'd be willing to believe that running it through some heat cycles and generally getting the oil circulating around has solved your problem, at least for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #360
Thanks JRD. You do remember the history correctly. I like your explanation. Well, I like most of it—up until the last phrase....”at least for now.”
 
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