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Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
Thanks for the link. This Facet pump seems to get pretty good reviews too...

So I am still waiting on the shop to mic my engine. They honed the cylinder walls and said everything looks fine. One rod is really black and they recommend replacing it. All bearings of course need replaced. They said they gave it one “bath” and will do that one more time.

Things are slow moving. The shop is short staffed right now and they are getting to my engine when they can. It’s a small job for them, so I’m just grateful they’re even messing with it.

The camshaft cup was binding, so I took it home and realized there isn’t the appropriate gap below the retainer ring, which is causing the cup to bind. Looks like the center pin isn’t sticking out the recommended distance, so I’ll add that to my parts list as well. That little retainer ring sure put up a fight when tying to remove it!

2457491
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Speaking of guidance, here’s a question on my list to ask...

Heavy fiber or cup grease—is the grease used on regular wheel bearings sufficient, or is there something better?

2457493
 

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2nd it for mustie 1, what an awesome carector to watch..lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #209
A quick update about my Onan engine. The shop I dropped my engine off to said my cylinders would use standard size pistons and rings. When I asked about the measurements, I was told 3.256. When I asked if both cylinders were that measurement, I was told they were "about the same." Based on the manual spec of a minimum of 3.249 and maximum of 3.250, I was told that standard size pistons and rings would be fine unless I planned to use it all day every day (which I don't), in which case they recommended boring out the cylinders and going with .10 over.

Long story short, I'm not real happy that the shop isn't providing me with more precise measurements and said the cylinders are "about the same." Can anybody recommended a shop in the Ashland, KY/Huntington, WV area? I've called a number of places and have run out of options. I know Richards is in WV, but I'd rather not drive that far if I can avoid it.
 

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That is not a typo, it is 3.2490 - 3.2500.
 

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I should note, that is the new spec, the wear limit is 3.255, or 0.005" max. taper is 0.005", O of R is 0.003".
 

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Discussion Starter #213
I should note, that is the new spec, the wear limit is 3.255, or 0.005" max. taper is 0.005", O of R is 0.003".
With the wear limit of 3.255, what does that suggest about his recommendation to use standard sized pistons?
 

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Looks like you are right on the line.
If the out of round and taper are in, and you plan "light" use, likely OK.
On the other hand, if you will be working it hard, then a rebore/new pistons would be in order.
 

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That is in line with other engines I have re-ringed. .005-.006 max wear in the bore. Beyond that it's not worth it to rebuild it, it will not last very long before it starts burning oil excessively. So I think you could probably get by with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #216 (Edited)
I found another shop that will bore both cylinders for $100.

Honestly though, as time passes I’m starting to reconsider whether this is all worth it. I don’t mind the work itself, but by the time I get a new crankshaft, main bearings, journal bearings, rod, pistons and rings, 12v coil, high profile points box, fuel pump, gaskets, wires, etc, the costs start to add up. Plus having only used the tractor a couple times I don’t know if the charging system even works, so there could be unexpected costs there. Also, while my starter currently works, I haven’t seen a replacement for any years prior to 79. Starting to wonder if I should just put the money toward a 23hp Briggs Vanguard....
 

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Discussion Starter #217
So the parts alone would run abound $1200 and that includes a new high rise breaker box and 12v coil.

Additional costs down the road that could occur would be the starter, flywheel, stator, etc., but for now those are working fine. As far as the starter, I have seen there was a plate that was once made for the newer starters, but unfortunately that plate is nowhere to be found anymore.

Options are: (A) go ahead and put the Onan back together and hope the charging system, starter, etc continue to work fine. (B) purchase a Vanguard Briggs & Stratton 386447-3048-KC 23 HP Vanguard FKA 380447-0048 and adapter plate kit ($150), or (C) shop around for another tractor and hope I don’t end up in the same boat again.

I’m not real crazy about option C, largely due to my experience with this one after only having used it a few times. Option B is honestly pretty tempting. I would be more tempted to go with Option A if a replacement starter was readily available. There’s something about going through all this to then be down again due to difficulty finding a part, or difficulty getting a new part to fit. The charging system, while possibly an issue, is something I suppose I could live without? As long as I go with a surge fuel pump, I don’t believe there’s anything besides lights I'd have to power?
 

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Ugh. Sorry to hear it's all looking that pricey.

Is the starter really unobtanium? I got a nice one from Bruce a few years ago for not too much. IIRC it's the starter for some Mitsubishi car. I guess I wouldn't give up on that yet.

The charging system you could live without, sort of. You'd be running the ignition off the battery, and probably only have about 6 hours of run time, but that should see you through just about any mission. You'd likely want to rig some sort of charging connector to plug in to when not running.

If you decide to ditch the Onan, please PM me. I hate to see those things get scrapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Is that Bruce Guthrie?

I’ve been looking at eBay periodically and haven’t seen any starters. Boomer doesn’t have one either. I suppose I could have an adapter plate made for a new starter if need be.

I already have the battery set up to plug in when not using, so that’s not a problem. So that 12v coil would draw enough to drop the run time down to only 6 hours? That and starting and stopping the engine could eat up the battery. Hmmm. Another reason to have a working charging system.

I’ll definitely let you know if I decide to go with the Vanguard. I do wish the cc’s for the Vanguard were comparable to the 16.5 Onan.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Well it looks like there may be a starter replacement after all. I’ve been using the part numbers from the manual, which I should have known better. I cleaned up the starter and it’s a Mitsubishi with part #191D790. It also says Type NX (or maybe MX) - 1.0F-10GL. F-10.

A google search for 191D790 brought up this link:


It cross references with 191D790, and is listed on eBay for only $68.
 
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