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Discussion Starter #1
I want to install a back blade on my 3-point hitch while my front end loader is attached to x728. I left the FEL hydraulic hoses all connected, but set the bucket at the position a little off the ground so it would not drag while using the back blade. I turned the hydraulic cylinder lockout valve fully counterclockwise. When I started the tractor and expected the 3-point hitch to move when I used the hydraulic control stick, the 3-point did not move but the front end loader did move. If I disconnect the hoses for the FEL, will the 3-point now work if I turn the lockout valve cc? if this works how do I keep the FEL bucket from dragging while I use the blade?
 

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As I recall, the X728 has two valves. One controls the lift of the front loader. It is the one that has the float position. The other controls the curl of the loader and also the lift of the deck and the 3PH. The lockout valve prevents fluid from going to the deck/3PH cylinder to make curl/angle more responsive.

So, make sure your loader is connected to the correct ports. The way you can lift it high enough to not cause an issue. You can disconnect the curl cylinder to keep it from moving when you adjust the 3PH. You have to open the lockout valve. You might be able to lock the deck up (if it is still attached). I don't have an X700 series, so I could be mistaken about everything I said 馃檪.
 

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Couck wise closes flow to cylinder. Moving lever will not operate 3-pt. Turning valve counterclockwise open valve allowing flow to 3-pt cylinder. As Frog suggested, get bucket in position you want and disconnect hoses for bucket. With valve full ccw, you'll have control of 3-pt and no movement on bucket. Loader arms will still raise/lower with inner lever. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Couck wise closes flow to cylinder. Moving lever will not operate 3-pt. Turning valve counterclockwise open valve allowing flow to 3-pt cylinder. As Frog suggested, get bucket in position you want and disconnect hoses for bucket. With valve full ccw, you'll have control of 3-pt and no movement on bucket. Loader arms will still raise/lower with inner lever. Bob
thanks to both of you. However, the installation manual for the back blade shows the lower lever controls the blade. That is the lever that controls up and down on the boom. If I disconnect those hoses for the boom, which appear to be the red and black connections, and turn the lockout valve counterclockwise, I would then have control of the 3-point hitch, and also control of the bucket curl?
 

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Look here OMM157070_I7
Select the using hydraulic control levers section. It shows which ports control which outputs.

My understanding is that the 3PH uses the deck lift cylinder to move the rockshaft that controls the height of the 3PH. This is controlled by the Upper lever:

Rear three-point hitch mounted attachments

1. If installed, disconnect front mounted attachment hydraulic hoses from machine:

鈥 Disconnect front quick hitch angling cylinder hydraulic hoses; or disconnect snowblower or snowthrower chute rotation hoses.

鈥 Install dust caps on hoses and SCV couplers, and secure hoses to attachment or machine.

2. If installed, turn hydraulic cylinder lockout valve knob counterclockwise until fully open.

3. Pull upper hydraulic control lever backward to fully raise mower deck lift arms. Rear 3-point hitch will raise at same time.

4. Turn mower cutting height knob clockwise to highest position to lock mower deck lift arms in raised position.

5. Turn rear 3-point hitch depth control rod to desired height.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I disconnected all 4 hydraulic hoses, and turned the lockout valve counterclockwise as far as it would go. I then tried both levers and neither moved the 3 point pitch at all! What am I missing?
 

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You have to make sure the three point hitch is not mechanically locked in the up position. Look at the lock screw on the inside of the left upper arm. Is it fully out? Counterclockwise? If you can't turn it at all you need to make sure the three point hitch is in the fully up position and then you should be able to move it CW or CCW with ease.
 

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I want to install a back blade on my 3-point hitch while my front end loader is attached to x728. I left the FEL hydraulic hoses all connected, but set the bucket at the position a little off the ground so it would not drag while using the back blade. I turned the hydraulic cylinder lockout valve fully counterclockwise. When I started the tractor and expected the 3-point hitch to move when I used the hydraulic control stick, the 3-point did not move but the front end loader did move. If I disconnect the hoses for the FEL, will the 3-point now work if I turn the lockout valve cc? if this works how do I keep the FEL bucket from dragging while I use the blade?
You raise You Bucket so it clears while curling. But I suggest Investing In on of these XCurl-Curl Lockout Valve for John Deere 45 Loader X475 X485 finally Put One On My 45 Loader last year after Having a 45 Loader for 16 years. You Just flip the switch and It stops the Loader from curling But You and raise & Lower Your 3point Here is a Picture of the Kit for a 40 loader. For the 45 Loader it Just goes on the Opposite Loader arm I also attached the Instruction for the 40 Loader But for the 45 Loader You don't need the extra hose(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You have to make sure the three point hitch is not mechanically locked in the up position. Look at the lock screw on the inside of the left upper arm. Is it fully out? Counterclockwise? If you can't turn it at all you need to make sure the three point hitch is in the fully up position and then you should be able to move it CW or CCW with ease.

I looked at the left upper arm. Below it is what the manual calls the 鈥榬od depth control鈥. I do not see any other locking screws. I can take the arm and lift up on it and it can move about 1/2 inch easily. When I had tried to move it hydraulically with the lever it never moved at all.
 

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Common problem with JD GTs. You need a third spool valve dedicated to the mower/3PH as well as 2 spools dedicated to the loader if you plan on using the 3PH in conjunction with loader service.

I an not a fan of having one cylinder supporting two completely different functions (mower deck and 3PH), let alone one valve to support THREE different functions (loader bucket curl, mower deck, and 3PH).

I use my back blade in conjunction with my loader for snow removal every winter. Both cutting edges are in the ground for most of a pass and the 3PH is raised at the end of the pass just before I raise and dump the bucket. To this end, my GT loader has a separate hydraulic system and the tractor on board hydraulics deal with the 3PH. My SCUT has a valve for the mower lift and 3PH the same as you (I don't have a mower for that tractor), but the loader has a 2-spool valve set just for it.

BTW, my GT came with separate cylinders and valves for the mower deck and the 3PH. Either can be used without interfering with the other. I was shocked to learn that JD didn't do the same when I joined MTF.
 

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I agree, JD went cheap on the X700 series. But then most people don't have a loader or 3PH, let alone both. My CUT has separate controls for the 3PH and the loader, which is a requirement in my book.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I purchased my JD x728 used and at the time did not realize the front and rear hydraulics could not be used simultaneously, as yours can be. Can an independent hydraulic system be added to my x728 economically to operate the 3-point hitch? I do not have a mower deck and do not plan on having one on this tractor.
 

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Nothing about hydraulics is cheap, so it depends on your definition of economically. There is a thread about adding a third valve on one of the X700 series that doesn't have MFWD, since it uses the location of that leaver to control the new valve. A cheap hydraulic valve is $100, but the one that fits plus all the parts and hoses can easily be several hundred dollars. I added a diverter valve to my CUT for a grapple. It was a few hundred dollars in parts and not a quick thing and there is lots of space. The X700 series has much less room, so harder to get something that will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I believe the JD 1025 has independent hydraulics front and back. For me to step up to that tractor from my x728 would cost me many thousands. If I could make my x728 have independent hydraulics for $1,000 or so, I would jump at it. Besides I have a very nice JD 47鈥 snow blower for my x728 that I am going to sell.
 

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The relief valve is in the transmission so a separate valve set can be added at a location suitable for the operator by daisy chaining from the original valve set return port.

As mentioned, hydraulics is not cheap, but this one is only going to be expensive if you try to make it look original. For a bolt it to the fender installation, it shouldn't cost much more than $200. To make it look pretty is more time consuming than costly.

In general, since I don't know the specifics of the original installation:
- One valve set
  • Three hoses.
  • A handful of fittings.
  • Two bolts with nuts and washers to secure it to the fender.
  • Miscellaneous pieces/parts (tie wraps, etc).
Depending on the routing of the original lines and the location of the new valve set, one or two extra hoses may be needed. A more heavy duty mounting bracket attached to the frame would be wise rather than just bolting the new valve set to the sheet metal fender.

Well worth the expense, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You make it sound so easy! So, if I asked a dealership like Tractor Central to do this what kind of cost would I be looking at?
 

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Yes the depth control rod is what I'm referring to. On my X738 I can't control the 3pt hitch separately from the loader when it's attached. You said you can't get the 3pt hitch to work at all. This is an indication the depth rod is locked in the full up position. Yes, you will still be able to lift up on the arm slightly and that is normal. You won't be able to lift the hitch with the hydraulic controls though which is what you want. Start the tractor and pull the upper lever towards you all the way. If your loader is installed you have to make sure the bucket is curled all the way up. Turn off the tractor and see if you can turn the depth control counter clock wise. Mine will turn 47 half rotations before it is fully out. Once it is turned fully out you need to look and see that the diverter valve also needs to be turned fully counter clockwise for the 3 pt to operate correctly if the diverter is working correctly. If the diverter isn't working correctly more than likely the 3 pt will work in unison with the bucket curl. On my x738 the 3pt has to be locked in the up position or it will travel up and down with the loader bucket regardless of the diverter position. I hope this helps.
 

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Double to triple the cost of the parts. It's the cost of the man-hours that beat up the wallet.

That's one of those jobs that is often only done once by a tech and he has to spend time thinking through the line routing to get it right. Thinking time costs as much as wrenching time but the wrenching is pretty straightforward compared to sorting out something like 13 or so lines and line segments in a limited space that all absolutely have to hooked up correctly to get the desired functions.

It's not difficult, but it is time consuming, just like making everything pretty for such an installation.
 

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I purchased my JD x728 used and at the time did not realize the front and rear hydraulics could not be used simultaneously, as yours can be. Can an independent hydraulic system be added to my x728 economically to operate the 3-point hitch? I do not have a mower deck and do not plan on having one on this tractor.
See post 8 I gave you the Most economical solution to run You 3 point separately from the Loader Now if You add this kit XRMK-Remote Lockout Valve Kit for John Deere X465 X475 X485 It will shut off Hydraulic fluid to the On Board cylinder with out leaving the seat and You should Be able to Hold the 3point In the Up Position The way he designs his shut off valve they are truly a shut off Valve UN-like Deere's OEM vavle which is really a diverter (as some Hydraulic fluid goes to the cylinder so you still have slight Movement only slower)

Basically You turn the New center Mounted Lock Up Valve One direction to close and One direction to Open to Operate the On Board Hydraulic cylinder and flip a Valve On the Loader to Lock Out or UN-Lock the Curl function. Lock Curl function turn center Valve Open You Can use the 3point. Raise 3point, Lock center Valve. Open curl Valve You Can use the Loader. Using the kit I Posted In this Post will allow you to ignore the 3point threaded Rod depth stop to Lock the 3point Up shown Below circled In red

Now another Option is to Talk to the Owner of Aux Hydraulic and ask Him to adapt the Kit 4X5H3-NEW! H3 KIT for JOHN DEERE 425, 445, 455 GARDEN TRACT for a X700 series Then You will have true separate control of the 3point Hitch You Might still need this Kit XRMK-Remote Lockout Valve Kit for John Deere X465 X475 X485 or this kit HDLO-Heavy Duty Lockout Valve For Loader Lift Applications 4 to Lock the 3point In Place If Your running a Ballast Box (y)
TPH3001.jpg TPH5001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would like to thank everyone who posted suggestions to my problem. With your help I will summarize how my x728 tractor hydraulics work between the front end loader and my three point hitch which I operate a back blade on:

On my hydraulic control, I can leave my black and green hoses (Upper left and upper right on the hub) connected. These control my lower lever which raises and lowers the FEL boom.

i disconnect the yellow and silver hoses and put dust caps on those hoses. I turn the lockout valve, which is located in front and under the hydraulics hub, counterclockwise as far as it will go.

i then go to my 3-point hitch and turn the 3ph depth rod as far as I can counterclockwise. In my case that was 23 half turns.

i then started the tractor and pushed the upper lever forward, and the 3-point hitch lowered.

so, when I operate the tractor in this configuration, the upper lever raises and lowers the back blade, and the lower lever raises and lowers the boom of the front end loader. I cannot curl the bucket in this configuration.

i am going to investigate the threads posted on installing the 鈥檙emote valve lockout kit鈥 so I can leave the hydraulics to the bucket connected and just push a switch to activate the bucket and inactivate the blade, and vice-versa.

Thanks again to all that posted on this. You greatly improved my understanding of the tractor. MyTractor Forum is a fantastic tool!
 
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