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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
would the bolts go through the front (first through the guard, then the frame and finally into the anchor in these 2 spots here? (ignore the silver bolt/nut on the left....thats the part we rigged up that i have to get out first)....if so i can feel the anchor sort of at that 45 degree angle behind there (so the right side black bolt i THINK is going into the anchor but on the left side one its tilted down and we have that silver bolt above it right now)

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
alright sorry to bombard here but i was able to get a not fantastic but serviceable photo of how the front/back anchor are. the top one is the one facing the front/guard and its difficult to tell in the photo but its not level left/right but rather tilted. I was able to get the remaining bolt off the one side and hoping to prop the front up and hoping it will rotate back into place (kind of stuck right now) to put new bolts back in. would just that fix the steering if that anchor is still ok of course?
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
one last question on this.....i was able to get the front axle off and get the 2 existing anchors off (1 had a snapped off bolt like you guys suggested probably was the case) and the other one was mostly ok but i'm replacing both since i have it off. so the anchor has a flat side and a side w/ a slight bump out....which side goes against the frame (where the bolt screws in)? i'm pretty sure the way it currently was on mine had the bump out side against the frame but it would seem more logical to have the flat side there so it could hold tighter to the frame. any ideas?

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Unless the frame has a larger hole to center the raised area I'd flip it around the other way. With the age of all the 160's it's likely your not the first one who's had it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
ahhh good catch.....i'll have to check that in the morning if the frame has grooves for that. the diagrams i've found show the bump out to point towards the frame so it would make sense if thats how it goes to fit it in there. hoping once i put those back in there thats all thats causing the wonky steering.
 

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The lip centers the axle in the frame. Screw the anchors in on the axle so it will fit up in the frame, then unscrew them to tighten the axle in the the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
awesome thanks for the tip! that makes good sense. the bolt on the frame MOSTLY is in good shape after looking at it........the front post on the bottom got flattened out a little bit in one spot so hoping thats not a huge deal as i really dont want to replace the whole axle. the old anchor threads on pretty decent so hoping between that and the 2 bolts it hold enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
ok yup my frame does not have any indent that the anchor lip would sit in looks like. from this diagram i found it does look like that lip would face TOWARDS the frame so that sounds like thats by design maybe to fully center it? (if thats the case when the bolt goes through the other side of the frame and into the anchor there'd be a slight gap between the anchor and the frame then right? i could see reasons to go w/ both options but i'll go w/ the way you guys said and the diagram and hope for the best! one of those rear anchor bolts is a ***** to get to w/ the deck pulley system (i know not the real term)!

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
so the new anchors i ordered did not come w/ the flange bolts so i want to replace those while i'm at it. the specs call for a grade 8 but would there be any benefit to going w/ grade 5 so it can flex a little bit instead of just snap (since it was mentioned these old 160's are prone to that happening?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
new anchors did the trick for the steering! of course now it has a ***** of a time starting (not sure if having the front jacked up for a couple of days messed with anything. in attempts to try and get to one of the anchor bolts i started to loosen the 3 bolts on this but then just re-tightened so cant imagine that did anything

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That looks like the bolts on the electric pto. If it is, you likely now have to adjust those nuts so that the pto has the proper clearance. I don't know what it should be for your pto, it might be in the operators manual, but more likely is in the service manual. You might also find it out by googling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
ahh **** i knew i should have left that alone haha i'll have to see what i can find on that. how would i know if its off for clearance? loosening /tightening did not seem to change the height of that mechanism at all so all i could see is the the nut going higher/lower and the spring tightening or loosening ( cant imagine any of that is causing my starting issues so i'll check spark and all that stuff tomorrow for that to start
 

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It's possible that if it's too tight, it will prevent the engine from spinning fast enough, or even at all. IIRC, you need feeler gauges that are inserted into the side where the clutch is, and go around adjusting all 3 nuts on it until the feeler gauge just slides in/out all the way around. It's easy to do, you just need to know the right thickness feeler gauge, and the right spots to insert the feeler gauge to check the clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
thanks for the tip! i have no clue how to do that but i'll have to look into that. figures i fix one problem and introduce 2 more haha

i DID get it to start if i let it turn for a good 20 seconds and then drove it around fine for 5 min. stopped it and same thing....just turns (doesnt fire) and i let it do that for 20ish seconds and fired again and i was able to drive it again. this is what its doing when i try and start if it helps at all

Video
 
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