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Came across an old Sears roto spader the other day, identical to the one in the picture below (except mine isn't so clean looking). It got my attention because of the stick shift- I hadn't seen a setup like that on a front tine tiller before. The man that brought it over seemed to think that there were other attachments that could be put on in place of the tines. I've seen that done on rear-tine tillers and walk behind tractors, but never on a front tine.

Were there other attachments? If so, what were they?

Either way, it's kind of a neat looking machine.
 

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If you post this question in the Craftsman/sears forum You'll probably get a reply sooner.

I have a tiller with the same basic arrangement that hooks to the 3 point on my tractor (sears garden tractor). Mine doesn't have the "gear shift." I think that changed the speed (or direction?) of tine rotation.

I hope it helps.
 

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I've seen some tillers and snowthrowers that could have a snowblower or rotary & reel type mower attachments used during other seasons...not sure if the Sears Roto-Spader was one of them that did though...my dad had a Bobcat snowblower made by Wisconsin Marine Co.that had he said could power other things,like the reel mower attachment it came with ,he never used it for mowing so he sold that part ,I'm not sure what else it could have came with optionally...maybe a sweeper brush..or brush hog type rotary cutter ..
 

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There are several guys here with the shifter units, for forward/reverse mainly.
I haven't heard of attachments, but I'm not an expert.

Mike
 

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This was among those tiller models Sears and Roper recalled in cooperation with the CPSC in the early 1980s due to the clutch lever that tends to lock the machine in either forward or reverse when gripped for extended periods. In response, both Sears and Roper (the manufacturer of these tillers) offered a repair kit to eliminate the clutch lock to reduce fatigue and the chance of the clutch lever locking.

I don't know if such a kit can be bought now due to the fact that the applications it was intended for were sold in the years 1963-80.

This tiller looks to be a 1978 or 1979 model, and so falls in the year range mentioned.

~Ben
 

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This was among those tiller models Sears and Roper recalled in cooperation with the CPSC in the early 1980s due to the clutch lever that tends to lock the machine in either forward or reverse when gripped for extended periods. In response, both Sears and Roper (the manufacturer of these tillers) offered a repair kit to eliminate the clutch lock to reduce fatigue and the chance of the clutch lever locking.

I don't know if such a kit can be bought now due to the fact that the applications it was intended for were sold in the years 1963-80.

This tiller looks to be a 1978 or 1979 model, and so falls in the year range mentioned.

~Ben

This was very good to find out. I have one of these also that I bought last year.
 

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One thing you can do with that is to remove the engine and put under it a 1/4" flat plate thats about 4" longer than the engine. Then bolt the engine back on and remove the handles and weld a few bars on the extended 1/4" plate and hook the whole thing on a sears 3 point....
 

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One thing you can do with that is to remove the engine and put under it a 1/4" flat plate thats about 4" longer than the engine. Then bolt the engine back on and remove the handles and weld a few bars on the extended 1/4" plate and hook the whole thing on a sears 3 point....
so thats how you do it. thanks
 

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I have one just like this, used it for years low, high, reverse, finally put new 8 horsepower engine on the beast
After 2 days tines quit rotating today, anyone have this happened to them all help appreciated
 

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Chains inside broke! -----Thats usually what happens on tillers. --My simp. tiller on my 917 allis garden tractor did exactly that and the chains were broke when I took the case apart.
 

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Chains inside broke! -----Thats usually what happens on tillers.
I was just going to say we had that tiller and the next one which was blue. They both had leaky seals in the gearbox, and they broke. We went to a rear tine after that which doesn't work as well in high weeds because it isn't easy to clean out, but it is a lot smoother and a heckuva lot less bouncing.
 

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In high weeds, I mow them down before hittin them with the tillers! Works great and all the tiller has to do is mix the chopped stuff with the dirt! --- You can dig deeper on the first pass too!
 

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I do the exact same thing. Mow/mulch it first, then till.

Mike
 
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