[tracktortag]

Yes, I installed a new fuel line along with a shutoff valve. I would have liked to install a filter too but there is really no place for it. I installed the shutoff valve as close to the tank as I could. From the shutoff valve the line immediately runs across the engine sandwiched between the engine block and the tin, then directly into the carb. Maybe this was done as part of "winterizing" the engine, so moisture in the fuel line doesn't freeze up as per the "Winterized Engine" decal. Or maybe the "winterizing" is just the heater box and the shroud over the recoil starter assy.

The only option would be to run the line around the outside of the engine, maybe around the front. Then I could install a filter. The DB didn't have a filter or shutoff valve when I brought it home. I believe they were built this way.

 

[mikeinri]

Is the new hose already disintegrating, or did you not check the carb previously?

I have several small engines with no good place to put a filter, so I know what you mean.

Mike

 

[tracktortag]

It was the new line that I installed about a year ago when I had the engine apart. I added the shutoff valve then too. I just installed a new line. I'm glad that you know what I mean re. a filter.

 

[BOSOX]

None of my old Aries blowers came with a filter either, Dave, and most had fuel shut off valves threaded into the tank. All of them had Tecumseh engines. The lines going through the shrouds were to heat up the fuel, at least that was what I always figured it was for. Can be awful cold when those machines are called into service.

 

[tracktortag]

I've been thinking the same thing, Mike. I should probably leave it the way it is. I guess that your tanks were metal. The Gravely tanks are all metal and have the old style metal screened shutoff valves threaded into them. The DB has a plastic tank. I had to use a newer style inline plastic shut off valve.

 

[BOSOX]

The plastic tanks have a built in mesh screen over the outlet. I have in the past found them to get fouled and not flow enough fuel and as a result the engine quits but will restart almost immediately after the fuel fills the bowl again. I've replaced a few plastic tanks over the years for people with that issue. I also tried opening up the screen with a drill bit but had little luck improving the fuel flow. With no access from inside the tank itself I had to replace them. The metal tanks could get ugly but I've never had to replace any of them with the threaded in valve / screen.

 

[tracktortag]

I had not noticed the built in screen. I'll have to take a look. This is good to know. Thanks, Mike!

 

[mikeinri]

I'd be just as concerned that a 1-year-old hose is already deteriorating from inside, assuming you're sure that's what you saw, and you cleaned it out when/since you last replaced the hose.

Mike

 

[CCMoe]

tracktortag,

Are you going to be in Chicago anytime soon?

Craftsman Drift Breaker 826 snow blower - farm & garden - by owner -... (craigslist.org)

CCMoe

 

[tracktortag]

No, it may be a good thing too. This looks like a nice one. Plus, it has a 5 speed Peerless transmission like mine. I can see that the right gauge wheel is flat spotted on the bottom from the wheel being rusted on the bolt but that's minor. And the auger bearings may need to be checked, but at a $150 asking price...

I see that you are in IL. How far away from Chicago are you?

 

[CCMoe]

No, it may be a good thing too. This looks like a nice one. Plus, it has a 5 speed Peerless transmission like mine. I can see that the right gauge wheel is flat spotted on the bottom from the wheel being rusted on the bolt but that's minor. And the auger bearings may need to be checked, but at a $150 asking price...

I see that you are in IL. How far away from Chicago are you?

trackortag,

It's 146 miles away, in Ashton, IL, west of Chicago. Tempting, but I have a 2016 Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO that has 25 or so hours on it, I know it's under fifty hours. I've only used it 3 of the six years that I have had it. I don't need another rerason to want snow! Again, it is temping.

Hopefully it will move fast.

CCMoe

 

[tracktortag]

trackortag,

I don't need another reason to want snow! Again, it is temping.

Hopefully it will move fast.

CCMoe

...Before you change your mind? It may move quickly given its apparent condition and asking price.

Being the enabler that I am, here are a few reasons that you need this DB. It's old, unique, and needs to be saved and preserved by someone who would appreciate it for what it is. 146 miles isn't bad in the whole scheme of things. It's asking price. It's Peerless 5 speed trans. It's outside of Chicago (unless you would need to drive through Chicago to get to it).
I can't mention that it would be good to have a backup blower just in case, since your Ariens sounds like it's brand new with only 25 hours on it. Oh, what the heck, why not? And, adding the DB to your fleet would virtually guarantee no snow for you.

You made Mark's day. He doesn't want to see any reason for anyone to want snow.

 

[CCMoe]

...Before you change your mind? It may move quickly given its apparent condition and asking price.

Being the enabler that I am, here are a few reasons that you need this DB. It's old, unique, and needs to be saved and preserved by someone who would appreciate it for what it is. 146 miles isn't bad in the whole scheme of things. It's asking price. It's Peerless 5 speed trans. It's outside of Chicago (unless you would need to drive through Chicago to get to it).
I can't mention that it would be good to have a backup blower just in case, since your Ariens sounds like it's brand new with only 25 hours on it. Oh, what the heck, why not? And, adding the DB to your fleet would virtually guarantee no snow for you.

You made Mark's day. He doesn't want to see any reason for anyone to want snow.

tracktortag,

LOL, you're quite the salesman. Hopefully it finds a good home.

CCMoe

 

[tracktortag]

Today I spent a little time hammering out the rear panel and removing the surface rust with the angle grinder sanding disc, and removing the "Drift Breaker" and "14" Impeller" decals. Then it was on to the headlight housing. There was a small piece missing along with a few cracks. I replaced the missing piece with a piece of similar gauge plastic that I cut out from an old paint tray. I "traced" the shape to be cut out by placing the piece under the missing area and spraying it with white paint. I filled the cracks with Marine Tex 2 part epoxy. I'll use more Marine Tex to fill the low area of the patch before sanding everything down.

 

[BOSOX]

Clever repair, Dave, Marine Tex is good stuff!

 

[steddy]

I’ve had good luck drilling small holes right at the ends of the cracks during those types of repairs. It helps stop the crack from continuing to propagate, or so I’ve been told.

 

[mikeinri]

Clever repair, Dave, Marine Tex is good stuff!

I’ve had good luck drilling small holes right at the ends of the cracks during those types of repairs. It helps stop the crack from continuing to propagate, or so I’ve been told.

DITTO to both of these comments.

Mike

 

[tracktortag]

Mike, yes, Marine Tex has been my "go to" for some years now. It's not cheap but is well worth the cost. It's impervious to gas and supposedly can even be used to seal cracked blocks.

Ted, I hadn't heard of drilling holes to stop cracks from spreading but it does make sense. In the second pic you can see that the long crack extends beyond where I was able to fill it. I'm going to drill a small hole as you suggested. Thanks for the tip!
The plastic used for the housing is hard, brittle and cracks easily. It would have been nice if they used a more rubberized plastic like the paint tray that I made the patch from.

CCMoe, looking at the pics in the link you posted, I think I can use one of the pics that shows the "Winterized Engine" part of the dashboard decal so that I can have a new dash decal made. That part of mine is completely washed out.

 

[CCMoe]

Mike, yes, Marine Tex has been my "go to" for some years now. It's not cheap but is well worth the cost. It's impervious to gas and supposedly can even be used to seal cracked blocks.

Ted, I hadn't heard of drilling holes to stop cracks from spreading but it does make sense. In the second pic you can see that the long crack extends beyond where I was able to fill it. I'm going to drill a small hole as you suggested. Thanks for the tip!
The plastic used for the housing is hard, brittle and cracks easily. It would have been nice if they used a more rubberized plastic like the paint tray that I made the patch from.

CCMoe, looking at the pics in the link you posted, I think I can use one of the pics that shows the "Winterized Engine" part of the dashboard decal so that I can have a new dash decal made. That part of mine is completely washed out.

View attachment 2582727





View attachment 2582724

tracktortag,

Glad it became useful.

Silly question, but what exactly makes it "Winterized" other than shrouds, jetting?

CCMoe

 

[tracktortag]

I can't think of anything else. Maybe running the fuel line in between the block and the main engine shroud to keep them from freezing. Or maybe not. The fuel lines may have been run the same way on tillers, etc., that used Tecumseh engines. I don't know.