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Discussion Starter #1
It's a great running engine, but.....the carb needs some attention. The engine is hydralocking. There are no numbers on the carb body. (pictures attached). The only info on the engine is : 4 cycle Easy Spin. 379887 are the only numbers I can find on the shroud. I'd like to revise the engine, too, from the manual wind-the-knotted-rope-around-the-pulley to at least a more 'modern' rewind cord. Would prefer to add a starter, but there aren't any mounting holes for one. This is a pretty old engine. So, to get it going for now, are cab rebuild kits available for this? Where can I get one?
 

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I have a 78 on a Toro blower. Carb looks similar. I just put a kit in it. I'll have to lookup part number. Needle and seat might be available separately. I thought it was flooding but in hindsight it might have been spark issue due to kill circuit. Runs great now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not my first time taking a carb like this apart, so I did remove the valve seat and it's extension BEFORE dismantling the bowl from the body. This is what I found. The stem extending from the seat is slightly bent. Suspect the p.o. was in there in the distant past. However, the intriguing part is finding an extra 'stem' resting in the bottom of the carb body. Right at the bottom of the center hole of the float chamber. Looks like it may have been used at some point, as it is shiny at the insert end. Or....does this go someplace else in the carb body?
By the way, thank you all very much for your fast and helpful responses.....
 

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That long piece is the fuel nozzle. Looks to me like that extra piece is broken off of the other part. It is quite long. see diagram....



New ones are available
 

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Just some info

Briggs flo jet carb. appears someone tried tasking it aprat BEFORE taking out the jet. Those old flo jets are expensive to replace unless you get lucky and find another donor. You need to review the procedures to taking them apart and assembly. Lots of info on the web about such. You need to add a fuel shutoff valve and Briggs red inline filter instead of relying on the carb float needle to hold back the gas when the engine is not running.

For your rope starter. If you will shop around you can find recoil starter for those that mounts under the flywheel nut, BUT try to find the old style with the starter dog that is non_plastic. The modern day non-plastic type recoil is too wimpy for a 10 hp engine. (they break)

The modern plastic type recoil requires cutting off the crankshaft stub and once you do such you are stuck with only using the plastic wimpy type recoils.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great diagram, Poncho62. Very helpful. Well, Forest Gump, based on what you're sayin', I'll stick with what's there. Not willing to cut crankshafts on an otherwise great engine. If it's not flooded it actually starts pretty easy. With all of your help I'll get past this issue and be back up and running in another week.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rats! I just now removed the parts from the little container. Fuel in the bottom of said container! Turns out there's fuel IN the float! No wonder it was flooding!! Close inspection shows a small crack. Rats. I can silver solder it with no problem. But, how do I get the remaining bit of fuel out? I'm considering opening that crack a bit more. Any suggestions?
 

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mine was on a 24 series. IPL doesn't show kit number. One I used was 391071/394989. Float is shown as 692265 and available from my aftermarket.
 

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So far, you haven't specified if this is a horizontal or vertical shaft engine.
IF horizontal, is the cylinder is perpendicular to the ground or leaning over at 45 degrees.
My first guess would be a 25 series, which would be "about" correct for 10ish HP engines.
 

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I've had limited success soldering up floats that had pinholes or cracks--to get the gas out of a float ,I just left them in the sun for awhile (when it was warm out,not winter)--or I laid it on my wood stove for a few minutes,the gas will evaporate quickly..

Sometimes the solder makes it too heavy and it will still "sink" enough to let it flood,depending on where the leak was--farther away from the hinge pin will make it tend to droop more..also some solder usually ends up inside the float before you get it to seal up and flow good,which can affect it..
It's best to just replace it if a new one can be had..
 

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Tractor-Holic;12163815[B said:
]I've had limited success soldering up floats that had pinholes or cracks-[/B]-to get the gas out of a float ,I just left them in the sun for awhile (when it was warm out,not winter)--or I laid it on my wood stove for a few minutes,the gas will evaporate quickly..

Sometimes the solder makes it too heavy and it will still "sink" enough to let it flood,depending on where the leak was--farther away from the hinge pin will make it tend to droop more..also some solder usually ends up inside the float before you get it to seal up and flow good,which can affect it..
It's best to just replace it if a new one can be had..
Good info here about soldering brass floats (and I'm good at soldering and have all kinds of soldering irons)

and silver solder is not the type to use.
 

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So far, you haven't specified if this is a horizontal or vertical shaft engine.
IF horizontal, is the cylinder is perpendicular to the ground or leaning over at 45 degrees.
My first guess would be a 25 series, which would be "about" correct for 10ish HP engines.
The carb in his picture is from a horizontal shaft L-head engine. As was mentioned, the engine cannot flood from a fuel leak as it is an updraft unit. A common problem is gas dripping because the emulsion tube is not sealing where it meets the upper body
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think the hydra locking happened from cranking the engine with a carb full of fuel from a bad float. It just sucked in whatever was in the carb. Pulled the cord the third time and moved the log splitter a bit. Removed the plug and pulled the cord again and it was like an Oklahoma geyser. Clearly something was wrong.
 

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Not sure why fuel can't enter cylinder if float fails . If green path of fuel is blocked from exiting anywhere (by mounting bolt) and fuel tank is mounted high enough so that fuel level in tank is above the intake manifold to block height then fuel will seek to be level. I have a toro snowblower and bottom of tank is slightly higher than than the carb fuel intake so fuel level in tank can easily be above the intake port. Or am I missing something?
 
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