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Discussion Starter #1
OK I am going to do the fluid change tomorrow so what do you all suggest? I am thinking Castrol 5/30 high mileage for the B&S 1996 model, that is the reason for high mileage ( will be using it in late summer and early spring mostly) and Castrol SYNTEC Full Synthetic Gear Oil, 75W90 for the tranny So what do you think of this?????????????????????
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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:Stop: Do not use Multi-viscosity oil in that engine. I'd use the recommended 30wt. In some cases, I use 40 wt., especially if I feel the engine con-rod(s) are wearing and close to the tolerance limits and needing replacement soon. You can usually hear the difference in a "tight" engine and another that is a little "loose" sounding but yet, not a knocking sound yet. And I also add STP or Lucas Oil treatment in with the oil for further protection on the con-rod journals.

As to the gear lube......I've used PennzOil full synthetic gear lube in a Hydrostatic trans-axle on a Ultra by Murray. I had issues with it able to pull the tractor and my weight on level ground with the original old oil. I drained the oil, and tried 20w50 motor oil, and it did better but when it got hot it still was losing forward motion on a hill, but was OK on the level. I drained that and replaced with the full synthetic gear lube, as it seemed to have the viscosity of regular oil, and after testing it on the hill on my property, I was satisfied it was holding up. I sold that Ultra last year and haven't heard back from the buyer since. It is good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good info. I looked at the B&S chart wrong 5/30 is for below 40 deg. I will go with the SAE 30, thanks. So since my GT in not a Hydro. do you think the Castrol SYNTEC Full Synthetic Gear Oil, 75W90 will be the best I could put in the tranny, for heavy pulling/plowing use.
 

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My 82 murray GT recomends 80w-90 gear oil for the trans-axle. Use 30wt in the engine.
 

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I gots a 99 murrray GT widebody 18.5 B/S I/C 46". model:42A707 Type:2653E1 Code:9902085A....Unless I'm blind in one eye, and cant see out of the other, I cant find the drain plug for the tranny (6 sp on the fender) Putting in new trany oil is the last thing I need to do til I put her up for the winter. While Im here, I'm using 8 oz of oil for every 8 hrs of use. It still does not start "right" up after it's hot, but, if you try and start it like it flooded,( full throttle) she will pop off eventually. When she turns over when it's hot, it still feels like it's got weak compression. Would a bearing, ring, and valve overhaul be reasonable?? My dealer/friend is trying to get me to do something different with it, It just runs to darn good, just needs improvement in starting after it's hot. When it's cold, she starts right up with no problems...be safe.....Gunner :thanku: PS. What do kits for such overhauling would cost...thanks again...
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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If I'm traveling over the same ground, forgive me, but I do have gray hair, and may have forgot the past........

Have tried new spark plugs, and while I mention that, you may want your friend/shop guy to look into getting you a hotter spark plug.

There was a thread on the small engine forum, that someone was having trouble with the original brand Champions and he had replaced after the problem wasn't resolved with the OEM sparkers, and had put Autolite into use and his ran fine after that. The general consensus of the thread would seem to have been that for whatever reason, the engine in question was requiring hotter fire. The Autolites provided it and his was running as if new again.

I have also had problems with Champions at times, so perhaps it would be possible to be the case for you.........
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have not changed mine out yet. I just did the oil for now. But someone here should have and Idea where the plug is on your GT. Also I agree with hankll about checking everything out before going into a rebuild. Unless you just want a new rebuild you can buy a good used mower with a good motor for less than you can rebuild one if you do it wright. This time of year used mowers are going for around $300/$500 for 4 to 5 year old mowers with 17.5 to 20 hp motors around where I live which is about 4 hrs east of you. Use one of the craigslist search engines and put in Murray and you should find one at a reasonable price. I priced a complete kit at proco not to long ago for a friend of mine for a 20hp B&S and it was almost $750 and that was not counting the block work. That was for everything new in the bottom end, gasket kit and valves.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Not sure about your trans-axle, but it could be one that has Bentonite grease in it and will not require new lube. It is a lifetime grease, as a rule. Look it up in a Google search to research it.

As to a replacement engine.

I see "junker" riders around my area that I can get for around $100-$200 and the engine might be as good as a new one. Sometimes I have to get one and just take their word that it "ran last time I used it" and just rebuild/clean the carb, and it is in fact a good runner. Sometimes, not. So if you want that guaranteed engine, yea, you might have to give more like that mentioned, but I certainly would not go for a $750 engine.......

Another idea, is to do a WTB ad on Craigslist. I needed a 8hp Briggs for a small early 80's JC Penny's rider, and was contacted by several people, and got one for $40, that had just been rebuilt. Not your normal price, but the idea of advertising for what you want, will get you several responses that might get you the price you want and the ability to choose the one that is the best runner. Just ask them to let you see and hear it run.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see "junker" riders around my area that I can get for around $100-$200
I see a lot of those here also, and I agree with everything stated above if you have the time and don't mind possibly going to look at a few before you find what you want, but what I was talking about was a 2006 or newer one that possibly you wont have to check out 3 or 4 to find a good one. I only gave $150 for my GT but that was after looking at 3 and driving about 250 miles total to look. I had to go almost 160 miles round trip to get the one I have so if you figure in all the gas I have about $250 + invested in the search and purchase. But I was looking for a specific type (GT). A motor should not be that bad.
I still think hankll was right in the beginning though. If you don't have any unusual noises in it or a lot of smoke on start-up and while running why not just check the compression to see if you actually need a motor before doing anything. You may just have bad plugs as stated before and a oil leak somewhere. The tester is only $10 for the cheapest one and 19.99 for the Compression Test Kit at harbor freight. Also this would be a good thing to have when looking at other motors so you can have piece of mind in what you are buying.


http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-66216.html


Harbor Freight Tools
JOHNSON CITY TN #192
3302 W. MARKET ST.
JOHNSON CITY, TN 37604
Phone: 423-926-0616

On another note my Dad lived between Bristol and Blountville on Weaver Pike for almost 20 years. So that is how I new you had a HF in the area.
 

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I see a lot of those here also, and I agree with everything stated above if you have the time and don't mind possibly going to look at a few before you find what you want, but what I was talking about was a 2006 or newer one that possibly you wont have to check out 3 or 4 to find a good one. I only gave $150 for my GT but that was after looking at 3 and driving about 250 miles total to look. I had to go almost 160 miles round trip to get the one I have so if you figure in all the gas I have about $250 + invested in the search and purchase. But I was looking for a specific type (GT). A motor should not be that bad.
I still think hankll was right in the beginning though. If you don't have any unusual noises in it or a lot of smoke on start-up and while running why not just check the compression to see if you actually need a motor before doing anything. You may just have bad plugs as stated before and a oil leak somewhere. The tester is only $10 for the cheapest one and 19.99 for the Compression Test Kit at harbor freight. Also this would be a good thing to have when looking at other motors so you can have piece of mind in what you are buying.


http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-66216.html


Harbor Freight Tools
JOHNSON CITY TN #192
3302 W. MARKET ST.
JOHNSON CITY, TN 37604
Phone: 423-926-0616

On another note my Dad lived between Bristol and Blountville on Weaver Pike for almost 20 years. So that is how I new you had a HF in the area.

Thanks for all the suggestions etc.....IM not gonna go spend 750.00 on a overhaul or whatever it's called. However, is there such a thing as just doin valves?? if so i will do that , and just keep putting oil in it til she dies. Hotter plugs?? I need to get out more often, I've never heard of that!! I have no unusual noises or anything like that. Like I said, she starts right up, however, after relocating the fuel line, it appears to do better after it's been runnig, I can shut it off, but gotta start it like maybe its flooded, full throttle then she'll start. When she turns over it just feels like there's weak compression. I will go get a compression gauge, that will come in handy, Thanks for that idea. The reason I'm so adamant about all this is that I got so much involed already..New carb, new armature, new coil, new starter, and a number of other things. I will say she lays a nice cut....Thanks again, and keep the ideas comming boys....Im a listening....be safe....Gunner
 
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