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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to replace my oil pan (broken ears) as soon as it quits raining. Plan to use a tranny jack to help lift it into place. Any tips on how best to do this? Do I have to cut new rope seals off even with pan? Silicone or gasket sealer anywhere? Only want to do this once! - Thx Mike
 

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Old Iron 1%er
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I like to stay away from silicone (it's a pain if you need to remove the oil pan again), but if you can't get a gasket for it, I guess that's what you have to do.
 

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I assume you are talking about an N series tractor. If so then the oil pan is actually part of the frame. You can not just drop the oil pan like you can on the Jub or hundred series.
The axle carrier will have to come off and then the engine will have to come off the trans bellhousing. It can be done with a tranny jack but is easier with the cherry picker style engine puller. If this is your first time pulling an engine on the N series I can give you a step by step just let me know.

Kirk
 

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The way I did it is I built 2 "horses". After I lifted I built the horses under it to keep it stable and in the air. Was not too bad when you can get to everything and nothing tries to "run away" while you are working on it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've got the front end unbolted, and the axles and loader supported with jack stands. I had to replace the fan belt on a 2n with a loader. I've also got the hood /legs, radiator and the front wheels off to gain access, as I replaced all the wiring, alternator brackets, and spark plug wires, etc.

I've got the gaskets, but someone I trust, told me to put silicone under the rope seals and on the tips where they meet the paper gaskets. I wanted to confirm this. The pan I bought did not seem to have any sealer on the old gasket except a couple of spots holding the gasket to the pan.

I can't at this point just drop the old pan straight down? Thx for all the help - Mike
 

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You could put just touch of silicone on them but I would not, just be sure to cut the rope about an 1/8" long on each side and since you are doing it tamp in the uppers on each side and add as needed to get it back to level with the block, that will help stop any seepage from the uppers you may have.

One other thing DO NOT stretch out the rope but compress it and make it as short as possible before you roll it into the groove. You want it as dense as you can possibly get it and soak it in oil before you start so it is good and lubed up.
 

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You could put just touch of silicone on them but I would not, just be sure to cut the rope about an 1/8" long on each side and since you are doing it tamp in the uppers on each side and add as needed to get it back to level with the block, that will help stop any seepage from the uppers you may have.

One other thing DO NOT stretch out the rope but compress it and make it as short as possible before you roll it into the groove. You want it as dense as you can possibly get it and soak it in oil before you start so it is good and lubed up.


All good advice here.I will soak mine in oil for several hours to make sure that it gets plenty of lube , otherwise you'll be pulling it apart again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Could you enlighten me as to why it's so hard to get back together? I don't doubt you, I just want to be as informed as possible before I start. It looks like the front two bolts will be fun.

My problem is the loader is in the way of everything, and the tractor is sitting outside on a gravel driveway, were is where I put it when I drug it home. I really don't want to tackle taking the loader loose, and it blocks all good access for my engine hoist which would really be a bear on the gravel anyway. I am working alone and trying to do this as easy as possible.

Would it help if I loosened the engine to tranny bolts, and wedged the engine forward a hair, without pulling the bolts all the way out?

Probably wouldn't have bought the tractor if I had seen the broken pan ears, but until I pressure washed it I couldn't see much of anything. Thx- Mike
 

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I have R&R'd pans without removing the engine. Loosening the FW housing bolts and tilting the engine slightly does help with the alignment. Deal with the alignment of the pan and FW housing bolts separately. Use alignment dowels and install the pan bolts. Then remove your tilt wedges (screwdriver tips are enough) and install the FW housing bolts.
I have always removed the front axle to remove the pan so you are on your own with that procedure. Again, IMO the FA mount and the FW housing can/will put a pinch on the pan and make moving it difficult.
I don't envy you on this project. As much of a pain as loader removal may be, I would remove it for access.
Make sure that you use very good and stable stands or supports especially if you are on gravel.
Good Luck!
 

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The problem I had was that the pan needs to go straight up onto the block and the bell housing is in the way of going straight on. Gaskets tend to slide around some and when you think you got it on right you find the gasket has slipped. Wedging the engine forward would certainly help. it shouldn't take much. Good luck.
 

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" Gaskets tend to slide around some and when you think you got it on right you find the gasket has slipped." Use some dental floss to tie the gasket to the pan through the bolt holes to prevent it from slipping.
Dan 2N
 

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jmp. I am in the process of doing the same thing on my 48. You will have to remove at least one side (recommend clutch side) of the steering and move the front away from the engine. There is a bolt on the left (sitting in the seat) front that I don't think you can get to unless you do. My SIL and I wrestled with the trying to remove the oil pan for an hour one evening and ran out of light. I looked it up in my manual and went back the next evening and we had it totally apart in about 20 minutes after removing the front. Look in the manual in the reference section. It does a much better job of explaining it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the help. I figured out yesterday that the axle would have to be moved. Took the radius arms loose at the socket ends and pulled the axles forward with ratchet straps attached to the bucket. Gave me lots of room. I loosened the engine bolts, jacked up the engine a little, and put a screwdriver in the crack. I cleaned the old gasket on the block, made alignment dowels for block. Installed soaked rope seals after watching this great video I found from another site ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSQWlnvAIbI ). Tied the gasket onto the pan with the dental floss (great idea). Looked like it was going to be easy at this point, then company showed up, end of work day! Going to give it a try today when the sun comes out! - Mike
 
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