If you can clean the outside of the block good with brake cleaner or whatever,applying some talcum powder to it will show up an oil leak quickly,might help you pinpoint where it originates from..
Might be the crankshaft seal,or the crankcase breather releasing enough to make a puddle..
I hate jobs that involve a lot of labor and the results are non-productive...the ones I end up having more often than not...hope you figure it out and can solve the problem..
The oil is all around the motor on the frame.
We dont have any talc so i used corn starch.
im beginning to suspect that there may have been a reason the motor sat for 50+years! LOL
Oil in the red circle!
That roundy-looking thing is a street ell, screwed into the drain opening, at least that is what it looks like. I hope it is not what I suspect. A crack in the case where the pipe threads screw in that opens when you tighten the fitting into place, and give it that last bit of torque to line it up. The gasket is not leaking, and the oil is coming from underneath the engine. Only thing holding oil there is the sump.
If you take it off the chassis and set it on its side(pick one) and pump the sump full of air, and then smoosh some soapy water over the area near the drain outlet you may find the culprit leak area.
My bet is on a crack that is very slight, but opens when you have to tighten the ell. If that's the case you have multiple choices. Not in any order. Weld. JB Weld. RTV. Junk. The bottom of the casting would be the lowest temperature change area, so welding could be done with care. The crack (if there is indeed one available) could be left 'expanded' by the pipe, and JB Weld or RTV stuffed in using a thumb or two. Remove the pipe, and the casting would tend(no guarantee) to collapse back together naturally. Let it collapse, and let the material set up. Then put the pipe in gently, using some pipe sealer or Teflon tape, so any needed sealing is done with sealant rather than the pressure of metal-on-metal. It could work.
Have you ever looked at the bottom when the drain fitting was tightened down in place? I think I heard of some liquid that can be sprayed onto a surface and a 'black light' shined, and any imperfection would show up as a line that glowed more or less than the rest of the surface.
I don't think there is any other option for leakage on the bottom of the engine. Unless you have a porous casting. That can be fixed with external or internal sealer in some cases. Just now it occurred that you could clean the pan internally as best you can, and lay down a good layer of JB Weld on the inside. Some 'filled epoxy' would do the same job. If the material had any flex, you could do this before installing the drain, and if no flex, do it with the drain in place. What do you have to lose?
Yes that is a street ell and i do i think you are correct about the crack. My plan at this time is to pull the motor (im getting good at it) cleaning the begesus out of the underside. Then use my homemade electric etcher to both clean and roughen. i have a Old can of ford blue paint that i know is oil and gas resistant so im planing on using that. if it comes down to it needing brazed i can do it but that will be part of a winter project
Nah, it is the Blue Smurfs that will scare it into holding its oil.
Only place that even looks close to leaking is the flywheel end where it appears to be a slight bit wetted by oil(or something as it is discolored a slight bit.) My old eyes aren't seeing anything that would be a likely source of oil.
Is this a 'leaks when it runs' or 'it leaks when stored/sitting still' situation? Leading to the next: The seal at the flywheel end was replaced with new, and the garter spring was checked to be in place after, so it's not possible the oil is being forced(splashed) out past that seal. Right?