i know that everyone has there thoughts on what to use, my 1974 calls for type f and my 1977 calls for 20wt, i used type f in the 1977 is this ok???? or does this hurt any thing. having some problems pu it away works fine. sat for 2 weeks went to test drive it would not go when i move the hydro lever made a ticking noise like a manual shift does when you put it in gear before you slow down, could not get the lift to work eithernused the draw bar raised it up at the same time i pulled the lever back, all of a sudden i know have foward and revers but no lift. iam thinking maybe i messed up not putting the 20wt in. any opinions or options.
oil in hydro does it matter
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It shouldn't matter on a full change out of the oil.
It sounds like the pump has drained down and needs a few minutes of operation to regain its prime. The hydro picked up and the lift should come back as well. The ATF is a lighter weight than 20W and may be draining through the greater clearances caused by 36 years of wear.
If it persists, you may have to go back to the 20W oil to clear it up. I'd give it a couple of months unless it becomes a real PITA.
If the lift doesn't come back to operation, you'll have to go back to the heavier oil sooner, rather than later. The internal leakage may be such that it requires the full output of the charge pump for the hydro, leaving nothing for the lift.
Bear in mind that this is supposition without actually observing the hydro in question and how it is operating.
It sounds like the pump has drained down and needs a few minutes of operation to regain its prime. The hydro picked up and the lift should come back as well. The ATF is a lighter weight than 20W and may be draining through the greater clearances caused by 36 years of wear.
If it persists, you may have to go back to the 20W oil to clear it up. I'd give it a couple of months unless it becomes a real PITA.
If the lift doesn't come back to operation, you'll have to go back to the heavier oil sooner, rather than later. The internal leakage may be such that it requires the full output of the charge pump for the hydro, leaving nothing for the lift.
Bear in mind that this is supposition without actually observing the hydro in question and how it is operating.
tudor, i think iam going to have to chang it out. went out and tried it out would not go untill i waited a while then grabed the draw bar then it went again, but still no lift. so i will go to town and get some 20 wt change oil and filter and see what happends .thanks tudor for the info and your help, gary990.
I have a White GT-1855 and changed the hydraulic oil in the transmission and I think it called for 20wt. Think I got it at Tractor Supply, was a gallon or two of it.
Here is a two gallon:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg;-non-detergent-sae20-2-gal?cm_vc=-10005
That the right stuff?
Here is a two gallon:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg;-non-detergent-sae20-2-gal?cm_vc=-10005
That the right stuff?
i called up eaton co. and they said to use 30wt hyd oil, that is what they put in them when they ship them out. so after i drained it out changed the filter empty out the lift cyl. put it all back together still nothing. all i did was changed motors all 16hp briggs run the same rotation i would assume. i mean it does nothing move the foward and reverse its like its very loose no purging nothing. could it be pluged so the pump will not deliver fluied. any ideas what you think i cuold do next other wise ill have to get it fixed. also thanks for the come back on the different oils. gary.
Try lifting and lowering the lift while helping it by hand a couple more times. This will sometimes force purge the charge system and get it working correctly.
The fact that it moves at all says that it is at least partially purged, but there is still air in front of the charge pump. Depending on condition, it could tale several minutes to purge all of the air out.
The fact that it moves at all says that it is at least partially purged, but there is still air in front of the charge pump. Depending on condition, it could tale several minutes to purge all of the air out.
The pumps are positive displacement and will self bleed, if given enough time. They will pump air, but not at the same rate as oil. Clearances for a hydraulic pump are wide open spaces for pumping air.
Once it's working on 100% oil, then you can tell if the pump is wearing out. While air is in the system, blame the problems on the air.
Once it's working on 100% oil, then you can tell if the pump is wearing out. While air is in the system, blame the problems on the air.
As mentioned previously, lift and lower the hitch by hand at the same time as you move the control in the appropriate direction with the engine running. That moves air out of the cylinder towards the reservoir from one side while sucking any remaining air out of the system between the pump and the cylinder with the other.
Unlike the pump, the cylinder does not have the necessary clearances for air to leak around and it does make a good air pump as well as an oil pump. It shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 full cycles of the hitch cylinder like that to get enough air out so that the system operates. After that it should only take a few minutes of working the tractor to get the rest of the air out.
Unlike the pump, the cylinder does not have the necessary clearances for air to leak around and it does make a good air pump as well as an oil pump. It shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 full cycles of the hitch cylinder like that to get enough air out so that the system operates. After that it should only take a few minutes of working the tractor to get the rest of the air out.
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Must be getting tired, saw "Oil in the hydro, does it matter" and all I could think of was "sure does if you don't have any" :dunno:
ok bob, i was not reading it right, it's getting the air out of the system. thanks for your help. i'll grt it figured out one of these days
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