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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

i am going to change to oil
i have been using 30 nondertergent oil
i live in fl i am going to try some thing like 10w30
but i was told when i frist got my tractor to use nondetergent oil
should i be using detergent or nondetergent oil

Thanks for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it is a 316 i think a 1988 m00316x477513
it has 560 hours but has had a hard life use to mow fields tall like 3 feet and used as a tractor using the 3 point for ground work

Thanks
 

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This is from my 1988 318 manual.. John Deere Torq-Guard Supreme engine oil is recommended. If other oils are used, they must be premium quality engine oils meeting perfromance requirement of: API Service Clasification, SD,SE,SE/CC or SF. So your 316 should be the same as my 318. Hope this help..........Gary
 

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I always used HD in the shop for all machines new or used , also would suggest you stay with 30w as you are in FL, the rule of thumb I was always told in service schools was if avg operating temp is 40D or higher used 30w, lower us 10-30 but all should have a service classification as shown previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for some info
but i would like to know what weight and type to use that is not the JD oil due to money i run Mobil in all my trucks and would like to put in the tractor

Thanks
 

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MTF Tractor Nut
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Mobil makes a straight 30W that I've seen around in a few places (it's in the blue bottle)... It's not synthetic or a syn blend, but it works fine in my Lawnboy.
 

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I use SAE 30 briggs and stratton oil in the briggs and old techs, quality 10W30 in the Clones. I used to run ND 30W in a briggs and changed it every year and it never made an issue. I put briggs oil in it after the ND went up in price
 

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Hi

i am going to change to oil
i have been using 30 nondertergent oil
i live in fl i am going to try some thing like 10w30
but i was told when i frist got my tractor to use nondetergent oil
should i be using detergent or nondetergent oil

Thanks for the info
I was always told in the old engines they used non detergent. So if a engine has always had non detergent you will have some slug built up, and if you switch to a detergent oil it will clean up the engine and your seals and guides will start leaking. So i stay with the non detergent until we overhaul them , and at that point we switch Paul
 

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I was always told in the old engines they used non detergent. So if a engine has always had non detergent you will have some slug built up, and if you switch to a detergent oil it will clean up the engine and your seals and guides will start leaking. So i stay with the non detergent until we overhaul them , and at that point we switch Paul
That is true an old engine that alway's had non detergent will have sludge build up and loosening up that sludge is not really a good thing. I have a friend who uses nothing but full syn. oil's in everything. A couple year's ago I helped him change the trans oil in an old 68 JD 110 who know's when if ever it was changed last. As alway's he insisted on using syn. oil in it and I warned him it might cause oil leaking. Now it is leaking in several place's. I am not debating the benefit's of modern oil as they are a far better quality especially syn. but in this case too good. Some thing's are better off left alone. BILL
 

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Mike Rags
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Here's more food for thought. I think it really comes down to just using a good name brand oil of the weight recommended by the manufacturer and changing it frequently/yearly so your engine gets clean lubrication. The detergent oils will certainly make for cleaner internals. I have studied oils a lot because of my interest in high performance cars. I've read more than one study that suggested that upon tear-down of two equal motors run the same way for the test, there wasn't any discernible difference in wear in the motor with "regular" oil vs. the motor with synthetic. I still personally feel the synthetics are better, except for what seems like the totally random occurrence of leakage. That problem seems to occur more in older motors. I think it's because it's so penetrating and slippery that it weasels by less-than-high-grade (ie latest materials and style/modern) seals. I experimented A LOT with different oils in high powered air-cooled VW motors and in the last 270 hp turbo motor it wasn't until I used a high grade synthetic that I finally got the engine heat under control. Very noticeably so. It just ran too hot with any of the MANY regular oils I tried. Make sure you run oils with higher levels of ZDDP, which has been removed from modern auto oils because of the cat. converters. That a whole 'nuther subject, but an important one. RAGS
 

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The owners manual
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Myself I wasn't aware that nondertergent oil was still produced, I would use a good brand of 10w/30. I lived in Fl for 37 years and had no problem with the weight choice. But I would use a synthetic.

Dick
 

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Onan recommends 30w at higher temps, multi-weights in cold weather. So, in FL 30w should be fine. 10-30 will work, but expect increased oil consumption and possible smoke under load when hot and under load. That's from my Onan powered GT experience.

Having quoted Onan, I'll tell you what Ireally do: I run 15w40 diesel oil in all my 1-2 cylinder engines when the weather is above freezing( I'm in OK). It is a very high detergent with lots of zinc. I've done this for years with good results.

Well there is one exception to that, the late engines with hydraulic lifters get the makers recommendation.
 

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I forgot to add, while ND oil may be fine for an engine w/o a filter, I would never use it in a filter equipped engine.
also, my concern would be finding one that meets all the other ratings recommended by Onan.
Lastly, be aware that oil ratings have changed. That means that whatever you see in an older operator's manual may not appear on the cans on the shelf.
 

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When I had my rental business, I used 15/40 in everything, from the smallest Briggs up to a VH4D, and never had an engine failure. The internals of engines that were disassembled for repair were spotless.

No manufacturer today recommends the use of ND oil. That was old advice left over from the 1940's and 1950's.
 

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I have 4 things to say here, 2 of them may be controversial. These are my opinions and you are free to use them or not.

1. The oil filter is more important than the oil you use. Don't buy good oil and then look for the cheapest oil filter you can find on sale at Wally World or Pep Boys. Think of what you want the oil filter to do. It must filter out the oil, it must hold the dirty oil, the anti-drainback valve must seal and work everytime. It also must bypass the filter at startup, and when, or if the filter plugs, the bypass valve must seal and work everytime. That's alot to ask of a $3.95 bargain filter.

2. Any clean oil that meets the correct specs for your engine is OK. From the cheapest Super Tech at Wally World to Royal Purple, clean oil works. The old thought that you had to keep whichever brand you used for the life of the vehicle has been proven wrong. You can use Valvoline this oil change, Pennzoil the next, and Castrol after that, with out any problems. The only exception to that rule is that I would not switch back and forth from Dino to Synthethics, but people say that is OK too.

3. Controversy starts here,
Use diesel oil in a diesel, and gasoline formulations in a gas engine. To quote a diesel engine service manual "Certain lube oils are specifically designed for diesel service. The combustion process, blow-by products and engine loads are different in a diesel engine, as compared to a gasoline engine. The lube oil, therefore, must do a specific and different job, depending on whether it is used in diesel or gasoline service". Diesel service oils are primarily designed for diesel service and that is where they should be used. These oils are NOT better oils than gasoline service oils, they just have a different additive package, it is not a better additive package.

4. And continues here.
Use the lowest viscosity oil that will do the job. Most people know or realize that 95% of engine damage comes at start-up, but nearly everyone specs their oil for that one hot day when it's 98 deg. outside and you just gotta get the lawn mowed. 0W oil is too thick to properly flow at start-up on a 95 Deg. day. 15W40 may take half a minute or more to properly thin out at say 70 deg., but the 0W30 will be thinned and pumping within a few seconds. 0W30 performs exactly the same as 10W30 at rated temps.

I use 0W30 Mobil 1 in my X304, with a Napa Gold filter.

Now, for the caveats for this situation.

A 316 has an Onan twin, which are well known to not like multivis oils.
The OP is in FL, and doesn't need to worry about cold weather. In this case I would use straight 30W High Detergent oil. As said above, any brand oil will work.

steve
 
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