[Birchlake]

Bought a 2019 Simplicity Regent 23/38 recently. Love it! I am ready for my first oil change. This has the Briggs and Stratton Professional V-Twin 23 hp engine. The temperature range for use of the engine will be from 30-100 degrees farenheit. Spring-summer-fall use in Minnesota. NO USE IN WINTER. Nothing too strenuous on the engine; small yard and pretty much once a week use.

In the owners manual where it shows their oil recommendations, it shows:

**Synthetic 5W-30 temp range is from 100 degrees down to -20 degrees. This is D on the chart.

**10W-30 temp range is from 100 degrees down to 0 degrees. With a footnote that above 80 degrees, the use of 10W-30 may cause increased oil consumption. This is B on the chart.


Simplicity (Briggs) doesn't for whatever reason put synthetic 10W-30 on their oil chart, just regular 10W-30. Not sure why that is as they do list a synthetic 5W-30 and I tend to lean towards synthetic oils.

First question: With both 5W-30 and 10W-30 noted as options and both being 30W at operating temperature, why would they say that 10W-30 may cause increased oil consumption over 80 degrees? Because it is non-synthetic?

Second question: If I go by the Briggs chart alone it looks like synthetic 5W-30 would be best. But if I don't need the thin viscosity of 5W on startup as the engine won't be used below 30 degrees, wouldn't a synthetic 10W-30 be a better overall choice, or am I missing something?

I know not a huge deal and either will work, I'm just trying to pick and stick with one best oil for this engine for use during all 3 seasons.

Thanks for the input!

 

[lmichael]

Honestly I would use Shell Rotella T6. It is a very high quality true synthetic 5W40. I use it in all my equipment. My Honda HS621 Snowblower, My Simplicity Sovereign with Kohler Command Pro 20 engine, My Honda 4514 with liquid cooked inline 2 cyl and my Honda HRB216 mower. You honestly cannot go wrong with the stuff

 

[enigma-2]

When I had my Simplicity in for ots first oil change (actually first service call, oil change coincided so had my dealer do it), told dealer I wanted Mobile One. He refused, said not until it was broke in.
I told him it was listed in the manual & he pulled a manual from a floor model.
Sure enough, synthetic was listed as an option. He got mad, said all of his Simplicity training said regular dino juice until broke in. So he called Simplicity engineering.
We got the director of engineering and poised the question. He said, "NO". Not until it's broken in. Needs regular oil for the rings to seat. (There was something else but I forget everything he said.) Then dealer pointed out it's in the manual and he was flabbergasted. Said he had no control as to what gets in the manual as to engine, but he vehemently disagreed.
I had the dino put in, switched to synthec in the next year. But it does make sence to me. The dealers opinion was synthetic is too little friction to allow the rings and valves to seat properly.
Personally, I would recommend conventional oil for at least the first year. Any good quality brand is sufficient.
I feel the the type of gas is more important. If you can get gas without Ethanol, that's best. If not use a gas stabilizer in the gas can as you fill it at the station. (I use Sea Foam.) Also if you use Ethanol gas, use a mid grade, not the lowest octane. (Ethanol turns to goop and clogs the very tiny jets in the carb.)
You can do a Google lookup for non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. There are websites that track this info. (It's how I found mine).

 

[RoyM]

I use 30W in summer when I can get it, otherwise it's 10W30. IMHO, and remember it's only an opinion, the higher viscosity oils are not suitable for proper lubrication in our air cooleds due to the tolerances. The only time I would want a 5W is in extremely cold conditions.

 

[denverguy]

...I wanted Mobile One...Any good quality brand is sufficient...

As an FYI (and there are many opinions on what oil to use), many folks, myself included, are believers in running Rotella in their tractor engines. It's a diesel rated oil that has more old school zinc friction modifiers than gas rated car engine oils. The zinc friction modifiers were significantly reduced in gas rated oils to improve catalytic converter life. Additionally, most automotive engines now have roller tappets that don't need the friction modifiers like our flat tappet tractor engines.

I run Mobile One (huge fan) in my (gas) car engines and Rotella in my tractor. I would suggest any "good quality brand" diesel rated oil. This logic applies to synthetic and dyno based oils.

 

[Country1966?]

I will pile on for T6 Rotella.

To answer your question about the oil consumption. Straight SAE 30 is a slightly higher viscosity than a blended 10w 30

 

[Country1966?]

I will pile on for T6 Rotella.

To answer your question about the oil consumption. Straight SAE 30 is a slightly higher viscosity than a blended 10w 30

Change it every 50 hrs or once a year and oil type (synthetic or not) not a big deal.

 

[Walt 2002]

"I feel the the type of gas is more important. If you can get gas without Ethanol, that's best. If not use a gas stabilizer in the gas can as you fill it at the station. (I use Sea Foam.) Also if you use Ethanol gas, use a mid grade, not the lowest octane. (Ethanol turns to goop and clogs the very tiny jets in the carb.)
You can do a Google lookup for non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. There are websites that track this info. (It's how I found mine)."

Phooey, I have used nothing but ethanol for 30 years in 9 small engines including both 2 and 4 cycles with no added treatment and store over winter with none of these problems.

Use straight SAE 30W oil in summer. Synth no advantage as same change interval recommended.

Walt Conner

 

[enigma-2]

You have been lucky, Walt. The internet is full of horror stories about Ethanol. Next time you're in your local small equipment dealer , ask him about what kinds of problems he sees with Ethanol.
Common problems come when the alcohol starts to seperate from the body of the gas. In a small engine, alcohol burns much hotter, hot enough to melt a piston or burn valved (the reason a dealer will recommend using a higher octane Ethanol gas.)
The sdcond common problem relates to the Ethanol drawing moisture (water) into itself. Over time, and in as little as 30 days, this can start to form a gum. Sitting in a carb, this gum can plug the tiny jets which are common in modern small equipment. (Older carbs didn't have to meet the current stringent regulations and had larger jets which didn't clog as easily. This may be why your older equipment didn't have problems.) Talk to your local service dealer, you'll get an earful.

Best,
Dennis

 

[spokes100]

When I had my Simplicity in for ots first oil change (actually first service call, oil change coincided so had my dealer do it), told dealer I wanted Mobile One. He refused, said not until it was broke in.
I told him it was listed in the manual & he pulled a manual from a floor model.
Sure enough, synthetic was listed as an option. He got mad, said all of his Simplicity training said regular dino juice until broke in. So he called Simplicity engineering.
We got the director of engineering and poised the question. He said, "NO". Not until it's broken in. Needs regular oil for the rings to seat. (There was something else but I forget everything he said.) Then dealer pointed out it's in the manual and he was flabbergasted. Said he had no control as to what gets in the manual as to engine, but he vehemently disagreed.
I had the dino put in, switched to synthec in the next year. But it does make sence to me. The dealers opinion was synthetic is too little friction to allow the rings and valves to seat properly.
Personally, I would recommend conventional oil for at least the first year. Any good quality brand is sufficient.
I feel the the type of gas is more important. If you can get gas without Ethanol, that's best. If not use a gas stabilizer in the gas can as you fill it at the station. (I use Sea Foam.) Also if you use Ethanol gas, use a mid grade, not the lowest octane. (Ethanol turns to goop and clogs the very tiny jets in the carb.)
You can do a Google lookup for non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. There are websites that track this info. (It's how I found mine).

Just out of curiosity, how many hours did your dealer say it took to break in your engine?

 

[Walt 2002]

You have been lucky, Walt. The internet is full of horror stories about Ethanol. Next time you're in your local small equipment dealer , ask him about what kinds of problems he sees with Ethanol.
Common problems come when the alcohol starts to seperate from the body of the gas. In a small engine, alcohol burns much hotter, hot enough to melt a piston or burn valved (the reason a dealer will recommend using a higher octane Ethanol gas.)
The sdcond common problem relates to the Ethanol drawing moisture (water) into itself. Over time, and in as little as 30 days, this can start to form a gum. Sitting in a carb, this gum can plug the tiny jets which are common in modern small equipment. (Older carbs didn't have to meet the current stringent regulations and had larger jets which didn't clog as easily. This may be why your older equipment didn't have problems.) Talk to your local service dealer, you'll get an earful.

Best,
Dennis

I have been seeing those reports for years and suspect the majority of them are from user neglect and use ethanol as and excuse.

Walt Conner

PS: I worked on small engines for about 70 years as a side line until 3 years ago so I have been around a couple and I tell people on the Internet perhaps they are using the wrong brand of gas, getting watered down gas. We had a local station doing that for a while. Other people post with the same experience as I.

 

[Bmaverick]

I have been seeing those reports for years and suspect the majority of them are from user neglect and use ethanol as and excuse.

Walt Conner

PS: I worked on small engines for about 70 years as a side line until 3 years ago so I have been around a couple and I tell people on the Internet perhaps they are using the wrong brand of gas, getting watered down gas. We had a local station doing that for a while. Other people post with the same experience as I.

Ethanol killed my MTD B&S push mower, 3 Stilh & Poluan chain-saws and a weed whacker. I got so mad when I learned about this and after the cost replacing them, that the ethanol free fuel were EXPENSIVE. So, I switched EVERYTHING like that to Lithium battery power. I LOVE my 40V Lithium chainsaw !!!! AND best yet, it took the same bar connection too!

NEVER would I want to go back.

Love the fact the 1981 tractor is DIESEL too! No stupid ethanol engine killer additive.

I've been working on small engines, marine, diesel and automotive since 1971. This blew my mind finding the troubles with ethanol.

 

[lmichael]

Have never seen ANY issue with ethanol either. Never paid any attention to it. Use in my boat and don't even bother with trying to drain carb or anything. Even after 2 years in storage and the old gas oil mix it'll fire right up at the touch of the starter button.
Ethanol is not the villain people make it out to be. MTBE is the REAL culprit here. Very harmful, will eat away everything even metal. Cars have been running fine on ethanol since the model T.
As for oil now THAT is truly where you can make/break your engine. Rotella T6 is an outstanding oil especially for air cooled engines. Heck even in my friend's Moto Guzzi owner's manual (big 1200 CC V twin fuel injected air cooled) they recommend Rotella T6 and BTW it came with it as factory fill which busts the break in myths.
I would never use a straight grade oil any more as none of them are made to the same high SAE grade specs that modern multi grades are. Also the modern oil flows WAY WAY faster which helps cut engine wear tremendously. I noted a couple uninformed posts going on about 5W or 0W is "too light". Calling total BS. Yes if it was a straight 0 or 5W or 10W, but remember this is a MODERN HIGH GRADE MULTIGRADE oil and WILL properly protect an engine through a much wider range of temps and operating conditions and loads.

 

[Birchlake]

Hey, thanks all for the information and opinions on oil and gas.

Oil seems to be a passionate subject for discussion and debate! Wowza. I was on "Bobistheoilguy" snooping around on small engine oils and there is almost as many different opinions on oil choice as there were threads!

Today I am going to visit with my small engine mechanic as I need to get some new chains for my chainsaw, so I will bend his ear and see what he thinks about oil choice for my Regent 23 hp engine. His family has been repairing small engines since I was a young kid some 50 years ago. I'll let you know what he thinks about the subject. I value his opinion as I do all of yours.

 

[lmichael]

He may be another one stuck in the dark ages of "use straight 30"

 

[TobyU]

SAE 30 is better than 10w-30. The reason it uses more is not because of not being synthetic as synthetic is likely to use/seep a little more than non syn.

30 gives better protection than 10w-30 but when comparing 30 conventional to 10w-30 syn....who knows for sure without a lot of lab tests and real world engine tear downs to look at scratches and wear etc.
The rotella is fine too but I have had T6 leak where others did not.
Always monitor closely when you switch to syn to keep oil level at full mark.
15w-40 rotella T5 is great too. Higher viscosity than 30 and doesn't thin out like 1-w or 5w-40.

The key to long life with a briggs v-twin is KEEP THE OIL ON THE FULL MARK!
They do not tolerate low oil and will snap a rod in a heartbeat.
Slightly about full if fine just not about the arrow head or the F that spells FULL.

WALT: I think it has a lot more to do with storage and practices as you mentioned about ethanol. It is just that the old non ethanol was more forgiving and allowed people to get by with more.
The worst thing a person can do is go out to use their mower for the last time of the year and grab their 5 gallon can and see 2 inches of fuel in it and say....Cool. Just enough to mow the lawn.
They pour old stale gas in it and walk away for 4-5 months.
If they had a 1 gallon can and had to get gas that day....they would not have starting problems after the off season.

 

[Cat385B]

I also got a new Simplicity a few years ago, mine is a Kohler. Same oil requirements as yours.
I ran 10w-30 Dino until it had 50 hours on it, now I am using 5w-30 synthetic. All my vehicles run that synthetic, so it’s always on the shelf. Only difference I noticed is the oil is in better shape towards the next change.

 

[enigma-2]

I also got a new Simplicity a few years ago, mine is a Kohler. Same oil requirements as yours.
I ran 10w-30 Dino until it had 50 hours on it, now I am using 5w-30 synthetic. All my vehicles run that synthetic, so it’s always on the shelf. Only difference I noticed is the oil is in better shape towards the next change.

Best way to go imo.
Only thing I do differently is I use a Lubricheck meter. Rather than changing oil on a schedule (annually is a schedule), I take a drop off the dip stick, put it on the meter's sensor and read its exact condition. You would be surprised as to how long it actually lasts. (Bought it to test oil in the Lincoln but use it for all my engines.)

 

[enigma-2]

Sorry for the follow up, meant to add info on the meter and hit enter by mistake. (Be nice if there was an edit function available for the posting author.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HBAG9AC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IqY8CbJ5VH0J7

 

[lmichael]

There are no more very high quality straight weight oils made. While 30wt straight MIGHT be "OK" for a splash lubed engine they're not good for a pressure lubed engine. A pressure lubed engine relies on oil being pumped through FAST on startup. It's one of the major reasons most automotive companies are specifying 0W-X or 5W-X and synthetic as well. I.E. my own Toyota specs 0w20 synthetic and 10k oil changes.
I am NOT advocating this oil for the tractors (unless they begin using liquid cooled very tight tolerance engines) like in a modern car. Their so touchy today that using wrong oil can trigger a Check Engine light. My nephew recently took his car for an oil change to a oil change shop. About a week or two later he started getting CE Light. My brother told me about it and I loaned him my scanner. MIL code showed cam timing "off". I started checking into it. Asked if oil was changed...........................YES. Asked what the shop put in it. "Oh 5W30" BINGO. He took it back to the shop, made them do it again with CORRECT oil and boom no more CE Light.
Again, no advocating this product on the Briggs or any other of this engine type. But high quality MODERN multi viscosity oils are REQUIRED for proper flow and protection and only under VERY narrow circumstances are single grade oils of any use in ANY engine though I cannot fathom anyplace they would work "better" or equally well. The old wives tales and myths of "oh it'll leak" if you use that just don't hold up anymore. Unless there is so much sludge and deposits built up from not using good oils to begin with.
**** even gong back to when Mobil first introduced M1 in the round silver can. My buddy and I began using it and in those days (early 70's) it was only a 5W-20. Yet I used it with NO issues/leaks in a 1969 Caddy with 472 high compression V8. He used it in his 1970 Camaro RS350, we used it in our motor cycles as well. All with no trouble, engine failure or leak of any kind.
Time to get out of the "dark ages" and realize there is no place for the "old" any more