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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I know there can be a lot of debates and factors to this but when changing your oil, do you drain it cold or do you let the tractor warm up first?

I'm needing to do a very long overdue oil change on my 1940 Allis Chalmers B and seems like every fourm or video I watch, "yes you do" "no you don't"

So just kinda curious....might be beneficial in my case as I have no idea when the oil was last changed (3 years I've owned it it hasn't been changed...I was a bad tractor owner and neglected that)

I also haven't ran here in a good month or so and it's been in the lower temps so not sure if that come into play at all.

Feel like having it warm it would drain better and pull out any extra gunk? Let me know your opinions on this topic!!!

Take care and have a safe week everyone!
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Black Tread
 

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Heat it up duder.
 

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Yeah, warm it up with plenty of oil in it then drain. It just might get a few extra crumbs or sludge loose to come out with the oil.
 
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If it's been way too long since the last oil change, I would drain what is in there first, then fill with fresh oil, you can use chep stuff for this first strp, as long as it is a detergent motor oil, then start it and run it for at least 10 minutes, then drain it again and fill with a high quality oil.
 

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do you drain it cold or do you let the tractor warm up first? Feel like having it warm it would drain better and pull out any extra gunk
Bingo, I would let it warm up first so it gets ALL the oil out and change the filter if it has one if you don't do that already. I do that with my truck
 

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The engine already went through the warm/drain cycle last time it was used. It might flow out of the pan a little quicker if warm but if warmed up you'll have to wait for all that dirty oil to drain back down out of the engine anyway. So, not much time saved, if any.

As far as the particulates being in suspension, I don't see any value to that argument because the filter has done that job. So, always change the filter with the oil.

Cold or warm...either way works.
 

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I at least try and let mine warm up so I’m not growing old waiting for the pile to drain. Doubtful that any stuck sludge will move much under a short run to heat up. The lightly stuck goo might go into suspension with a heat cycle so I would recommend running the machine for a few minutes prior to draining. Just my opinion mins you and Dee_Veloper has a point with waiting for oil to drain from the top of the engine. Warm it up, pull the plug, walk away for and hour or so.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it's been way too long since the last oil change, I would drain what is in there first, then fill with fresh oil, you can use chep stuff for this first strp, as long as it is a detergent motor oil, then start it and run it for at least 10 minutes, then drain it again and fill with a high quality oil.

Ok I'll see then, I'm just using some NAPA oil and more than likely what I'll end up doing is change it now and then come spring I'll change it again, as for now it's not being used hardly at all and none of the Field will be dry enough till June to drive in and actually use again.

When I change it this spring should I also Change the oil filter again? Until that point the tractor probably won't see more than 20-30min of run time
 

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I've never seen any Service Manual for ice's that has suggested its ok to change the engine oil without running the engine first to warm it up. Every one says to drain the oil warm - after running the engine.

Full disclosure, the number of engine service manuals that I have read probably is not statistically significant given how many different engine manufacturers there are out there.
 

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I want that hot oil to splash on anything sitting in that engine before draining it. If the engine has sat the hot, splashing oil can grab condensation in the top of the valve cover or other moisture in that engine.

Hot oil will rush out faster which will also take out more grunge than a slow cold drain.
 

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Interesting, I brought my tractor into a warm (60ish) shop and drained the oil cold so I can take it out side and lift the machine vertical for a good pressure wash (Winter service). I may filter the old oil and use it to warm the engine then do a warm oil change.
 

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In my experience, it always flows out better when it is warmed up...and I Always change the filter when changing the oil, no matter how little use it has had since last change ...a used filter is just going to contaminate clean oil...maybe not badly...but it will do that
@larrybl ...the purpose of running the engine is to heat up the oil so it flows better.....I don't think getting the engine itself warm is going to do anything for you...Do you have something to really filter it out well?...
 

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If you're not going to use it till spring why do you want to change it now? Warming it up in cold weather will only cause condensation.
It's been this long wait till spring.
 

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Ok I'll see then, I'm just using some NAPA oil and more than likely what I'll end up doing is change it now and then come spring I'll change it again, as for now it's not being used hardly at all and none of the Field will be dry enough till June to drive in and actually use again.

When I change it this spring should I also Change the oil filter again? Until that point the tractor probably won't see more than 20-30min of run time
My recommendation was based on the original statement that the oil change was very long overdue, and I was assuming that there was a chance of contamination from moisture or long term degradation of the oil. If there is water in the oil, it is sitting in the bottom of the pan and will be sucked up by the oil pump first and the starting of the engine with only water as lubricant can damage the main and rod journals and bearings. Likewise with severely degraded oil, as it has lost its ability to properly lubricate things. If it has only been a matter of months or a few tens of hours past the scheduled oil change then go ahead and run it first, but if you are unsure of the quality of the old oil then I would drain it first, fill with new, and then start it, but it's your choice. That's what I always do with a machine that I purchased that do not know the history of.
 

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Does anyone put any Mystery oil in and run it before changing it ?
 
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The cold oil change was needed to remove the oil so I can suspend the machine from a hoist for pressure washing. This machine has no oil filter, It is a Briggs twin flat head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My recommendation was based on the original statement that the oil change was very long overdue, and I was assuming that there was a chance of contamination from moisture or long term degradation of the oil. If there is water in the oil, it is sitting in the bottom of the pan and will be sucked up by the oil pump first and the starting of the engine with only water as lubricant can damage the main and rod journals and bearings. Likewise with severely degraded oil, as it has lost its ability to properly lubricate things. If it has only been a matter of months or a few tens of hours past the scheduled oil change then go ahead and run it first, but if you are unsure of the quality of the old oil then I would drain it first, fill with new, and then start it, but it's your choice. That's what I always do with a machine that I purchased that do not know the history of.

ok, well ive owned it for about 3 years now and been using it for about 2 years. including a good 10+ hours this summer at the tractor show. oil has been fine and dosent look too bad but i want to change it as i havent since ive owned it and i dont know if/when the previous owner did...if he ever did
 

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The type filter used on the A-C B, and several others use a partial flow filter, so not all oil passes through the filter. When the time is right this Spring, warm it up, and change it out. I'd second using a less expensive detergent oil for a flush, run a few hours, then change filter, and a better grade oil.
 
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