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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, for those you didn't follow other thread, read this link below on how Jon
(searstractor fan- "STF") developed a replacement ignition on the Tecumseh motors for the failed SSI module using a pickup and coil that is used on pulling tractors. Jon adapted this system to the Tec motor, he needed a real world test mule, I had a 1977 16/6, OH160 with bad SSI unit, we only live 45-50 mins apart, perfect match. I used tractor for several hours under varying degrees of load, mainly grass cutting and performed very well so I bought my parts, this documents final install and parts list/costs.
This tractor actually runs smoother, maybe little cooler, and seems to be quieter and no longer has as much what I would call valve noise. I am very happy with the setup.

I take no credit for this system other than documentation and pics of final installation on my tractor.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=251065


After testing this system, I have only found too drawbacks.
1. Since it converts to battery ignition, you must have good working charging system to keep it running. There are many other tractors that are the same, so guess not really bad point. Any other conversion out there also runs off battery so really no choice.
2. You must remove pins from flywheel and glue in a magent. It will most likely require you to drill out hole so that will ruin flywheel if you ever want to go back. Since this is an upgrade and I will never go back, not really a bad point either.

This is a thread on Jon's conversion, but I want to mention there are also other conversions out there. Best thing I like about using Jons', it eliminates the control module that the other conversion out there must use. Just a trigger and coil. With that said, I will be trying to convert my old SSI module to use as trigger and use Ed's setup on the ST16 I am restoring just to see if I can.:fing32:
Ed Stoller at earthandmagnets.com, Dale Colvert at overnightsolutions.com, and Brain Miller at gardentractorpullingtips.com.

The following is a list of parts and "my" costs to get them to me. Jon was able to do this cheaper as they see the parts dealers at the pulls they go to so he doesn't pay shipping. It was just as cheap for me to go ahead and order as to have Jon get them and then pay gas and the time to run up to his house.


1. Single cyl flywheel pickup trigger
This comes from Midwest Super Cub and primarily used on Kohlers. I emailed them, asked for trigger only with out magnetic ring or bracket. Total was
$69.xx, make sure you ask for USPS flat rate mine was $6.25, UPS is $15 for shipping.
http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsupercub/single-cylinder-engine-parts/crank-trigger-ignition-

2. Bosch Blue coil
Jon recommended going through Nichols performance. You have to make sure you get a 3ohm coil, they had best price even with shipping and Ohio tax.
I paid $47.xx to the door.
http://www.nicholsperformance.net/engines.htm

I did find a no name brand coil that is supposed to be same as the Bosch, I can't recommend, use at your own risk.
http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=2537&posid=8325535&noapp=1

3. Spark plug wire
Jon was using performance MSD auto wire and adapter on his coil, I happen to have an old set from a points car so I used that so no $$$ in this one.
Nichols lists wires on above link. I think Super Cub and also Brian Miller sell them. Maybe able to get just coil wires at local auto parts store also.

4. Off/on toggle switch
Pretty self explanatory. I got a 20 amp switch from Tractor supply for $3.99.

5. Trigger bracket
Jon spent some time making this little bracket to get timing set to about 30* while running. I will be sending his back to him and I made a copy so if needed, either of us would probably send you one. No $$$$

6. Various connectors, wire, nuts/bolts
Depends on what you have. We both had most of spade/butt connectors/wire.
I did have to buy 2, 4-40 machine bolts and lock nuts from Menards, These cost about $1.29 or so total. These are super small bolts needed to hold trigger on brackets. Anything much bigger and they won't fit, super small.
I also used heat shrink on connections and installed fuse in line before switch, both I already had.

7. Magnet for Flywheel
Jon said he used the magnet from on old magnet screwdriver tip? I found some on the web and as of this writing will be ordering a couple. I am using Jon's flywheel so I need to convert one of mine. The original pin holes are about 3/16" so I am ordering these and maybe one 1/4" just in case. Jon drilled out hole, mounted magnet using JB Weld. It is important to make sure magent is oriented properly to trigger switch...Jon can answer that one :fing32:
https://www.amazingmagnets.com/show-decimal-d125a2.aspx


Pics in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the trigger with it mounted in original SSI spot, pretty self explanatory. You can see the magnet glued into the advanced pin hole on flywheel.





My switch set up w/inline fuse that I mounted in the hole where the switch goes for the rear actuator. Mine not being used, I just utilized that hole for now. You can drill hole in dash where ever you want it mounted.




Our test setup with Jon's parts, bunch of wires hanging everwhere using wire nuts.




Here is mounted coil with trigger wiring. The black goes to negative on coil. The red goes to positive alone with the power from switch. You can conncet however, I just put both the trigger wire and power wire both in spade connector to coil




My final setup. Still not as clean as I would like as rest of tractor wiring is a mess which will all be redone someday. My plug wire was a little long so I wrapped in loom, then put a couple coils in it to keep it off motor.




Here is a pic of Jon's parts I took off in a pile, not much to this. Basically trigger, coil and switch. See how small those little screws are

 

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Question: is the toggle switch really necessary? Could not one use a key-switch set up for a battery ignition (i.e. early Tec, Briggs, Onan) that will supply 12v to the coil when in the ON position but cut the power when switched off? Just seems like it would simplify things and make for a cleaner, more factory like install.

Thanks,
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Don't see why it wouldn't. For me, the $4 toggle switch was cheaper than replacing ignition switch. It is necessary on mine since the SSI ignition switches are set up different internally than the battery coil switches. A switch out of an older points type or a SS twin tractor would probably work fine. I actually have one, may have to try down the road.
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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Looks (almost) factory!! Nice work guys
 

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Tractor hoarder/collector
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Glad to see it still works tahoe!!! Im gonna make another flywheel and use 2 magnets and fire it like the stock setup..I think theirs something to that second pin....You can use an ignition like an SS16 uses to power this setup just fine, only problem ive seen is when its cold, this system has the timing advanced out to the full 30 degrees, and the stock setup is backed up prolly 5 or 10 degress with the other pin, so that retards it and helps with starting...Otherwise it fires up great, just has some kick back sometimes...thats why if you use a toggle switch you can get it spinning and then throw fire to the coil system...which works fine, since some of our engines on the pullers have timing from 24-36 degrees advance...ive even played with low 40's for timing on a kohler....Brackets arent hard to make...I drilled the 2 big holes and mounted it to the motor, layed the module on flywheel, and scratched the holes for it on the plate, drilled them big, mounted module and adjusted everything up till it cleared..took me like 10 minutes....My setup was ugly do to me not caring what the first test subject looked like...SHoulda cleaned it up when I installed on Tahoes tractor but I was to excited to care lol...
 

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Tractor hoarder/collector
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Tahoe, if you need help drilling that flywheel or anything give me a call, I might be able to run down!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. You want me to get you a few of those magnets I'm gonna order?
I've started both ways, toggle on and toggle off then flip it, not had any kick back either was so far.
You still had to be somewhat accurate on bracket to get timing close, would've been easy to get it out of time by drilling holes in wrong place

I need to ask you a question about something else sometime too. Maybe put a little $$ in your pocket if you still have and wanna sell.
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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4H is the best! What was the total cost of the setup?
 

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How would you put this on HH100 using a starter generator??
 

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Tractor hoarder/collector
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Mounts the same way...the 2 bolts that the module is mounted to are common on all engines, but you dont have the dowel pins, so you'd have to either degree the flywheel, or buy a used ring gear flywheel, and take off the ring gear....ill have to find an old generator flywheel, and see if theirs a common point I can use...ive got a degree wheel so I can find where to mark it...Tahoe, I have texting on my phone now, so you can text me if you want, or call me sometime...
 

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Ok thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
4H is the best! What was the total cost of the setup?
Yeah, my kids have been in 4H since they were little, started as cloverbuds. My son got a 10 yr award last year, he still has 3-4 yrs to go until he is 18.
We mainly do livestock/small animals, but they also do extra projects from cake decorating, special interest, ecology, and son wants to engine/tractor restoration in his final years. Too bad we do not have a pulling project.


Approximate costs

Trigger $70 shipped
Bosch coil from Nichols $45-50 shipped
plug wire $15
toggle switch $4-5
Magnets $1
various connectors/wiring if do not have $10-15
various bolts $2-3

So total if you had to buy everything outright
$150-160

This is in line as the other kits out there that use the flywheel pins, coil, and a Chrysler control box are all $140-160
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Yeah, my kids have been in 4H since they were little, started as cloverbuds. My son got a 10 yr award last year, he still has 3-4 yrs to go until he is 18.
We mainly do livestock/small animals, but they also do extra projects from cake decorating, special interest, ecology, and son wants to engine/tractor restoration in his final years. Too bad we do not have a pulling project.


Approximate costs

Trigger $70 shipped
Bosch coil from Nichols $45-50 shipped
plug wire $15
toggle switch $4-5
Magnets $1
various connectors/wiring if do not have $10-15
various bolts $2-3

So total if you had to buy everything outright
$150-160

This is in line as the other kits out there that use the flywheel pins, coil, and a Chrysler control box are all $140-160
Price is about in line with a used SSi that has no warranty-

The real fix is to install pedals like Jon's project tractor- way cheaper, and never breaks :ROF
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Ill cut the wheelie bars off right now james if your coming to do it!!!! Ill even throw on an electric 3pt, and the 8in plow.......I wanna see this done! It sucks that the conversion so far cost so much...Im still trying to find a way to whole sale that module...i gotta be able to get it cheaper somewhere....
 

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I'm bringing this thread back as I am currently gathering parts to do this exact conversion and I can't find this answer anywhere else. Would it run the same as stock when adding the second magnet to the retard the timing on start-up? My flywheel has both holes and it would be easy to just do them at the same time. I'd rather keep it running similar to stock and not just run it with advanced timing if I don't have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Jon was planning on trying this over winter, not sure if he ever got around to it. After reading on Ed's website and my experience, I'm not sure if it is really necessary. With the SSI system, the long pin is for starting, it creates spark at the low RPM range. Once it starts, it automatically advances and the low rpm pin is not used again until you try to start it next time. Ed touches on the air gaps relating to spark when installing his home made pickup, I believe that the long pin does not create a spark once it hits higher RPM due to the gap between it and the SSI module so you are only getting one spark. With using Jon's system, the magnets are mounted flush in the flywheel. While doing my final mounting, I found, even with using these strong magnets, the pickup had to be mounted pretty close to flywheel, I even had to trim the edges off the pickup. Not sure how it would work, but with this pickup, I would think that it would try to fire twice at TDC and advanced. Not sure, using the magnets, how that would work in the big scheme of things runnning corrrectly.
I would send a PM to searstractorfan as he designed this for my tractor...pick his brain :fing32:

I have been running this system since last Sept I believe and have virtually no issues out of it just using the advance magnet. I did get one time of kickback on startup but it was due to my stupidity, I let up on the pressure on the key while starting it causing starter to kick out momentarily then kick back in and it cause motor to kick a little. When I spin motor a few revs then hit toggle to power coil, it fires great everytime.

Oh, I need to get first post editted, here is where I actually got my magnets,
K&J magnets, that other link is bulk only, I didn't need 500 magnets.
The 3/16 x 1/8" disc with a 1/4" drilled hole in flywheel and some JB weld, worked perfectly.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D32
 
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