My Tractor Forum banner

21 - 40 of 57 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Frank, if it is like mine from a few years back, there will be inner and out races of ball bearing but no balls in sight :confused: Be prepared with some fine emery paper as you have to slide the bearing down 24" of shaft to get it off (chain sprocket is welded on). Everything will be peachy once you get it done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Frank, if it is like mine from a few years back, there will be inner and out races of ball bearing but no balls in sight :confused: Be prepared with some fine emery paper as you have to slide the bearing down 24" of shaft to get it off (chain sprocket is welded on). Everything will be peachy once you get it done.
Thanks for the tips! Isn't it nuts that it is an open ball bearing? Shouldn't it be sealed given the location and use? Blower has been a lot quieter since cornheading the gearbox. Think fixing this bearing will bring it up to speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Frank, if it is like mine from a few years back, there will be inner and out races of ball bearing but no balls in sight :confused: Be prepared with some fine emery paper as you have to slide the bearing down 24" of shaft to get it off (chain sprocket is welded on). Everything will be peachy once you get it done.
Found one ball loose inside the cover. Having difficulty getting the shaft out. Sprayed inside the set screw holes, but still no slide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Gotta get that eccentric locking collar loose then you'll be home free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Frank, if it is like mine from a few years back, there will be inner and out races of ball bearing but no balls in sight :confused: Be prepared with some fine emery paper as you have to slide the bearing down 24" of shaft to get it off (chain sprocket is welded on). Everything will be peachy once you get it done.
Really can't get that shaft out. Seems rusted in place. It's not any of the set screws -they are all out. I'm hammering on the collar near the sprocket end and the thing isn't moving. Any ideas?
2444907
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
OK! Wow, what an effort to get this blower shaft out of the gear box-sprocket run. Had to take out the oxyacetylene torch to heat up the yoke at the disc/yoke/gearbox end to expand it, whacking the collar seen here at the other end with a piece of steel and sledge at least 100 times. Tore the **** out of the collar, but it finally came out. Put a few nicks in the shaft too, on that end, and couldn't at all get the collar off, although I could turn it 1/4 turn, it still didn't budge. Took out the grinder and started cutting doing my best not to nick the shaft. Only the slightest nick can be seen on the shaft below. Now how the **** do I get that bearing off?! Hope I don't have to cut that.
2445123
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Hi Frank, as I mentioned in my post #21 it is sometimes a challenge getting the bearing and collar to slide down 20" or so of driveshaft. I did mine years ago but my memory is I put the sprocket end in vise with wood jaws and just put a pipe wrench on the inner bearing race and started turning and sliding. I used emery paper lubed with some oil and just started working it down the shaft. I suppose you could also cut most of way with a grinder and then use a nut splitter but I've never tried that. Just need a lot of patience.

Also, be a bit careful with the setscrews in that "opposed collar" casting.. if you over tighten, they can crack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Forgot to add, you may have to file any rough spots on shaft that happened when you cut collar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Hi Frank, as I mentioned in my post #21 it is sometimes a challenge getting the bearing and collar to slide down 20" or so of driveshaft. I did mine years ago but my memory is I put the sprocket end in vise with wood jaws and just put a pipe wrench on the inner bearing race and started turning and sliding. I used emery paper lubed with some oil and just started working it down the shaft. I suppose you could also cut most of way with a grinder and then use a nut splitter but I've never tried that. Just need a lot of patience.

Also, be a bit careful with the setscrews in that "opposed collar" casting.. if you over tighten, they can crack.
I've 320 grit sanded the shaft, except of course, where the old bearing race is attached. Swear it seems permanently glued to the shaft. I will mount the sprocket in the vise and see what I can do. Also, the set screws... you mean the one in the yoke? Or the one in the collar?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
The ones in the casting yoke thing where they mount at right angles. I don't think you have to worry about the one in the eccentric locking collar. It is supposed to be best practice to lock the locking collar in the direction of rotation. I assume you've been hitting the bearing race with some kind of penetrant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Well I had to beat the **** out of that shaft, then take the grinder to it to get the collar and then bearing race off. Only nicked the shaft some. Spent the last few days sanding, priming and spraying the JD colors and black. Not too good looking, but it was a test. Maybe get it sand blasted and coated next summer. I'll put it together tomorrow, before work, but after the snowfall. Unfortunately it is pure ice under the last 1" coating of snow.

Last thing to think about as I put it back together is how snug the shaft sprocket end bearing is. A new JD 9217 picked up from the JD dealer. I put it on my finger, bending it to hold the inner race and the bearing is not free wheelin. It moves smoothly, but won't just spin free like bearings tend to. Not sure what that is all about. It is a sealed bearing.

2445531
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
use a Dremel with a cutting blade. don't try to cut all the way thru, just all most, then hit with a cold chisel and a hammer the race will just pop apart and will not cut the shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
use a Dremel with a cutting blade. don't try to cut all the way thru, just all most, then hit with a cold chisel and a hammer the race will just pop apart and will not cut the shaft.
Already got it off. Should've used a dremel, but I used the grinder. It's the new bearing that confuses me since it doesn't spin freely as I am used to bearings doing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
Frank, I wouldn't worry about drag on new bearing. New seals and grease are usually cause. Be sure to align the chain sprockets when you get things together. Glad to hear you finally got inner race off. I remember working mine down shaft about 2" at a time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
dk is right on, grease. By holding the inner race and spinning the outer race with your finger, you'll get maybe 6 revolutions from an oil lubricated bearing, but only 1/4 revolution from a grease lubricated bearing. You're good to go, have fun in the snow! Bob
 
21 - 40 of 57 Posts
Top