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Noob with 1940 9N lift problem

3899 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  JohnW
Hi everyone. Nice looking forum. I run a similar forum for Moto Guzzi motorcycles. Anyway, not here to promote my site, but to introduce myself and ask a couple questions.

I just recently acquired this 9n so I could do small jobs around the house. After a bout with the electrics and rebuilding the carb, I finally got this thing running like a top.

Now, I cannot get the lift to work at all. The PO said he thought it worked when he parked it 3 years ago. Here is what I have did as far as troubleshooting goes.

I have drained the yellow and watery oil from the tranny/pump/diff cases and replaced with new 90W GL1 from TSC. Still no worky.

Then, I pull the access cover and work the control arm up and down but see nothing moving. Shouldn't something be moving when the arm is moved up/down?

The pump works as verified through a successful PTO test and turbulence seen through the access cover with engine running and pto engaged, so I believe the pump to be ok.

I bought the F04 book and read through it, but it really can be a little confusing to newbie tractor owners. Motorcycles are easier :)

Would it be best to pull the pump and give it a go over? This will be my first bout with hydraulics. I also have a Terramite t5c backhoe that has given me a little experience in the tractor maintenance world.

Anyhow, I would really appreciate some ideas on what to check or test next. Even after changing the fluids, it still looks a little bad, so I think I will drain it and replace it again tonight and maybe flush it with diesel. I don't want to to this often at $50 a pop though.

BTW, pics to follow.

Thanks,
Luap McKeever
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It could be the relief valve. That would be my best guess.
Yes, something is supposed to move when you work the lever. Sounds like your control valve on the pump is stuck. There is a "fork" that comes down from the top cover and goes into the oil and connects to the control valve. That fork is supposed to move forward when you raise the lever. With the engine off, stick your hand in the oil and feel around to the bottom of that fork and see if you can grab ahold of the control valve it's attached to and move it in and out. If you do change the oil again, removing your PTO shaft may help to get a better hold of the valve. Here is a link to a picture of the valve:

http://www.ytmag.com/store/parts/pics/wm_9N640.jpg

-Leon
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Yes, something is supposed to move when you work the lever. Sounds like your control valve on the pump is stuck. There is a "fork" that comes down from the top cover and goes into the oil and connects to the control valve. That fork is supposed to move forward when you raise the lever. With the engine off, stick your hand in the oil and feel around to the bottom of that fork and see if you can grab ahold of the control valve it's attached to and move it in and out. If you do change the oil again, removing your PTO shaft may help to get a better hold of the valve. Here is a link to a picture of the valve:

http://www.ytmag.com/store/parts/pics/wm_9N640.jpg

-Leon
Perfect! Thanks, I'm gonna head out and drain the oil again and replace it. Then, I'll have a look for that pesky valve and see what I can find.

I'll report my findings and/or cure if and when I find it.

Thanks,
Luap McKeever
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Ok, I drained the oil and the forks are definitely attached to the valve. I can move the valve in and out too. But, still no movement on the forks when I work the lever. I can feel way up and can feel the shaft turn when I work the lever, but cant feel how or what the shaft attaches to the fork.

Is it time to pull the top cover?

Thanks,
Luap
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new discovery...when pushing and pulling the control arm past the little stop screw on the quadrant and the forks do move. So, I wonder if the PO just had them in the wrong place?

After looking around in there, I didnt see anything obviously loose or wrong.

Gonna put oil back in and run it a bit and try again.

If this dont work, what then?

Thanks,
Luap
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If this dont work, what then?
Then we look at the pump and top cover. But if you can get the fork to move, even a little bit, the 3 point should lift. You can always move the fork and valve manually if the control lever doesn't move it far enough. Once you do get it to lift and you put a load on it then we can see if anything else is wrong inside. :homer:
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new discovery...when pushing and pulling the control arm past the little stop screw on the quadrant and the forks do move. So, I wonder if the PO just had them in the wrong place?
Thanks,
Luap
There is the answer!! The "stop screw" is to limit the travel of the lift..It should be loosened and placed lower on the Quadrant ..:goodl:
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Then we look at the pump and top cover. But if you can get the fork to move, even a little bit, the 3 point should lift. You can always move the fork and valve manually if the control lever doesn't move it far enough. Once you do get it to lift and you put a load on it then we can see if anything else is wrong inside. :homer:
You dont move it manually while the engine and PTO are running do ya?

The only way the forks move is if I go below the stop screw, but it does not lift still. According to the manual F04, the next thing is to check the piston. So, I guess my next hurdle is to pull the cover and have a look.

Anything particular I need to look out for?

Thanks,
Luap
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There is the answer!! The "stop screw" is to limit the travel of the lift..It should be loosened and placed lower on the Quadrant ..:goodl:
I thought about trying that, but seeing how it doesnt move the lifts anywhere I put the control arm, I think something else is wrong. Piston maybe?

Should I just pull it all out and have it rebuilt?

Thanks,
Luap
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I thought about trying that, but seeing how it doesnt move the lifts anywhere I put the control arm, I think something else is wrong. Piston maybe?

Should I just pull it all out and have it rebuilt?

Thanks,
Luap
The piston is very easy to rebuild..

I have a video on "how too"..
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The piston is very easy to rebuild..

I have a video on "how too"..
Cool. How would one go about locating that video?
Cool. How would one go about locating that video?
Its at YTMag..CLICK HERE..(DVD) Ford & Ferguson Hydraulic Repair DVD
Well I got home today, removed the access cover again, started the tractor, engaged the pto, and pried a little on the down forks. Low and behold, I now have lift. yeehaw.

Had to buy a new alternator as the one on it was shot. For some reason now, it still dont look to be charging. The knife test to the back of the alternator revealed no magnetism plus am only getting 6 volts off the battery when running. So, I need to redo the wiring. That's tomorrow project.

I found this diagram on the board...http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h62/bmxer00002003/alternator.jpg

Will that be a good reference to rewiring this puppy? Only thing missing on mine is the original resistor as shown in the photo.

Thanks,
Luap
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Glad to hear the lift works. :fing32: That diagram looks good for the electrical.

-Leon
No need to get the video for the lift.. the hyds on a 9n-2n-8n are easy to rebuild.

sounds like yours was just stuck from some corrosion or grit.

as for the charge system.. hard to tell from the absence of usefull details in your post.. but.. do you still have a 6v system.. or a 12v system. most 6v systems are a generator .. 3 brush style with a cutout... most 12v systems are alternator based.

which you got.. sounds like you are still on 6v.... 6v alternators are WAY rare... positive ground alternators are WAY rare.

the more info you provide.. the better answers you will get.

soundguy
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Sorry SouNdguy. The tractor has been converted to 12 volts.

Thanks,
Luap
Sorry SouNdguy. The tractor has been converted to 12 volts.

Thanks,
Luap
On my conversion, the PO only hooked up the ballast resistor and it is working fine. (2N)
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That diagram looks good and if you search this site you will find some that have been posted in this forum. :goodl:
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