No wheel weight holes?

Wheel weights increase traction, which in turn can result in more torque being applied by the K46 which is not noted for its massive torque capability. The tractor manufacturer is trying to prevent a potential problem with excessive hydro pressures which leads to overheating and a shortened service life with potential warranty repercussions.

With that said, you can get about the same weight inside the tires with liquid ballast as you can with wheel weights bolted to the rims.

Why do you need the extra weight?

I agree with TUDOR's comments and also recommend not adding any extra weight to your machine. Even the weight of a full bagger may be a problem if your yard has hills.

John Deere's L-series (L120, L130, etc.) was the first to put 12" wheels (with no holes for weights) on a K46 transaxle and Tuff Torq (manufacturer) specifies a max diameter of 20" or 18" depending on the final drive ratio. A 23x9.50x12 tire has a diameter of 20.6"; Just over the maximum. A 20x10x8 tire has a diameter of 15.8" and well under either spec.

You may even want to replace your rear wheels with a set of 8" wheels. This would extend the lifespan of your transaxle. Husqvarna even does this with some of their tractors like the YT48XLS.

Yeah i mow sideways on hills and go up some steep hills. I didnt know until after i bought it that it was a k46. 750 dollar mistake i think. Im thinking ill probably not add the wheel weights now not worth the added risk with what im already putting the transmission through. Thanks for the advice guys!

B440 said:

...A 23x9.50x12 tire has a diameter of 20.6";

...A 20x10x8 tire has a diameter of 15.8" ....

Click to expand...

ummm.. never heard of so much diameter error on a 23" tire... and that 20" tire, being actually 15.8"???... :tango_face_surprise
either I am missing something, or you need to get a new tape-measure....

Please clarify?? :swow:

wally2q said:

ummm.. never heard of so much diameter error on a 23" tire... and that 20" tire, being actually 15.8"???... :tango_face_surprise
either I am missing something, or you need to get a new tape-measure....

Please clarify?? :swow:

Click to expand...

Haha, yeah I was using a formula from the internet. I stand corrected. :tango_face_grin: I went out and measured the 20x10x8's on my K46 and they are somewhere between 19" and 20". The R1 lug pattern is hard to measure accurately, in the dark, with no pants on.

I think the point is still valid though. The 23" tires are well over the max diameter rating.

B440 said:

Haha, yeah I was using a formula from the internet. I stand corrected. :tango_face_grin: I went out and measured the 20x10x8's on my K46 and they are somewhere between 19" and 20". The R1 lug pattern is hard to measure accurately, in the dark, with no pants on.

I think the point is still valid though. The 23" tires are well over the max diameter rating.

Click to expand...

You are probably correct, but the key word is 'probably'.

Tires are made in molds which we assume will give carbon copies for a given tire size. Unfortunately, all molds are not created equal and there is a variation of actual size from one manufacturer to the next, and from the same manufacturer when the molds are replaced, or molds with different tread pattern are used.

I have a pair of 20x8-8 2-ply turf tires on the back of my LT with similar tread patterns from different manufacturers. In order to get the same axle ride height on both sides of the rear end, one has 14 psi, and the other has 9 psi. While the ride height is exactly the same, the tire with only 9 psi is still taller from the ground to the top of the tread.

A rough rule of thumb is that a 1 psi change in air pressure will make a 3/16" - 1/4" difference in ride height. In the case of my two rear tires, one is approximately 2" larger in diameter than the other when filled to the same pressure and laying on the shop floor.

That's a 10% variation in tire diameters for the same nominal size, as marked on the sidewall. There have been several comparison pics of the same style and size, but different manufacturer, tires posted by others on MTF over the years which show the difference in diameter in unmistakable fashion.

While it is slight, there is nevertheless a remote possibility to have a nominal 20" diameter tire that is actually larger than a nominal 23" diameter tire at the same tire pressure.

BTW, tire diameter (2 X radius) is measured from tread to tread across the axle. The rolling radius is measured from the ground to the axle center and is a somewhat smaller dimension than half of the diameter.

I have a Scotts made by JD.. it is the same as a JD L120.. just painted different colors.. I also mow the farmers sidehill the wrong way.. (not up & down the hill).. I also added weights to the front & rear.. about 100 pounds on the front & 130 on the rear.. been mowin the hill for about 10 years.. it has 12 inch rears with no holes too..

People that buy a lawn tractor equipped with the K46 and use it as directed by the owners manual, while typically buying a tractor new every 3-5 years, will probably be very happy with it. They should, that's what it's designed to do in keeping with the manufacturers delivery of a maintenance free transaxle.

Weight added to the axle through wheel weights or tire fill is considered free weight. This means, it does not get added to the total static axle weight spec, only.

You can add wheel weights, fill tires, etc. to any tractor, even lawn tractors, but...

You, being happy with it, may depend on some understanding of what is at risk, and what needs to be done in order to minimize the risk on the/those parts being modified. The above posts warning about the use of weight are very good, especially if you are not interested in experimentation. but.....

For the person that wants to use their K46 a little more.....(and I mean just a little, not ground engaging work)

The K46 is a versatile and capable little transaxle, and is maintainable. Flat property, lawns and big box stores, and manufacturers demand for selling maintenance free, is where the K46 has thrived.

How long will it last, or how trouble free the use of this transaxle will be, comes down to this;

1. How it's used.
2. Controlling heat.
3. How it's maintain. (the specs from Tuff Torq are based on fresh oil, in a transaxle being maintained according to the Tuff Torq maintnance schedule, not old burnt out oil, that occurs on the maintenance free schedule)

keeping the transaxle case clean, making sure the transaxle fan blades are not broken helps control heat built up during normal use. A good habit for prevention.

I have included the K46 specs, maintenance procedures, recommended oil chart, and tire fluid fill chart. I hope this helps in your research.

:tango_face_smile:

I've rebuilt a half dozen K46 s just for the learning experience. It is possible to extend their life by changing out the fluid every few years with synthetic 20-50, but it such a PIA project even for a trained mechanic that it is easier to junk the machine. That said ...if the yard is flat...the axle fan is kept clear from debris.....the owner is not pulling weight....it will suffice for most people.

The good news is that after looking up the type of chassis you have in your lgt2654, is that it is the welded c-channel that is stronger than the GT/TS 12 ga, 26lb, pan style chassis.

In fact, just to emphasize this point, Johnny Buckets have lgt 2654 listed as acceptable for the JBJR, the GT/TS models since 2012 are too weak for the JBJR, not my words, but Johnny Buckets.

The K46 can be upgraded to the K66 in a kit for approx $1200-$1400 I think. If you install a K66 with the 23" tires the problem you may run into is clearance between the front of the rear tire and the back of your mowing deck?

I can say the K66 is well worth having. I use mine mostly for ground engaging work with a JBJR and pulling felled trees and such. I change the oil between 50 and 100 hrs depending how heavy the use has been. I only have use for AG tires on it and extra weights, including 65lb wheel weight on each side. I would prefer the K72 for the ability to add an exterior oil cooler and remote filter, but the K66 with locking diff is very capable.

As a note, Tuff Torq, (I have it in writing from them) recommends every 50 hrs if being used at its max specs, otherwise somewhere in between 50 hrs and 200 hrs. I have talked with Tuff Torq Techs with specific questions about their transaxle, they are helpful. If you have read my story, you will know, I don't give compliments freely but when earned! (Beware of Husqvarna Garden Tractors, etc)

I have used Lucas synthetic Motorcycle oil, for wet clutch applications (key here is that it conforms to JASO MA-2) 10W-50. These transaxles have to have a formula for wet clutch (they have a wet brake, same concept, but free of friction enhancers or modifiers).

With all that said, unless you have a sourced donor K66 that makes it cheap (I would do it right away and sell the K46 to offset the project) it dosn't make much sense financially, and everything being discussed is for after your warranty has run out, Husqvarna will only honor their warranty at their discretion. Not my words, it's in the warranty.