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Discussion Starter #1
This is the first engine that i have dealt with that has a point type ignition system. The fuel pump is pumping fuel through it up to the carb (fuel in the bowl). I don't have a set of feeler gauges to check the gap on the point, I'll pick a set up tomorrow.

When cranking over the engine, I can watch the point open and close, but do not see a spark between the contacts. With it cranking and the cover to the point off would I be able to see a spark??:dunno: The wire from the point goes to the pos. side of the coil. The wire from the condenser goes to the neg. side of the coil. I just wanted to double check to make sure I have this correct.
 

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The wiring goes like this: Power to the coil + from the ignition switch, coil - to the points, condenser is attached to the coil -, with the case well grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The wiring goes like this: Power to the coil + from the ignition switch, coil - to the points, condenser is attached to the coil -, with the case well grounded.
I double checked the wiring, and you are correct. The condenser and the point both go to the neg. side of the coil, while a lead comes from the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
With the points close < 1 volt to the pos. side of the coil. With the points open 12v+ to the pos. side of the coil. Any thought as to why I'm still not getting spark to the plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With the points close < 1 volt to the pos. side of the coil. With the points open 12v+ to the pos. side of the coil. Any thought as to why I'm still not getting spark to the plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK so now I am getting spark to the spark plug:thThumbsU. I know this because of two ways. First I can remove the plug and lay it on the block and see a spark jump from the plug to the block. Second when turning the engine over by hand I get a back fire when the points open.

The engine still does not want to fire up and run:Disgus:. I'm thinking that when the previous operator was using starter fluid:banghead3 to get it going after setting for a year or so, that he did some major damage to the piston, rings, or valves. Now I'm thinking that the engine will have to be pulled and either replaced or overhauled. I'm really hoping that this is not the case, but I guess only one way to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If this was more of a project tractor for me I would put more time into this engine. Right now I need this tractor so I have to send it to a small engine shop. I got that feeling the engine will have to be torn down and rebuilt. If that is the case then I replace the engine and rebuild this one myself as I have time and funds.

I appreciate the help you all have given me so far. I know I will have more after I get it up and running again.
 

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I don't think it's a problem with the engine from what you've described. I think it's electrical or in the ignition system somewhere. Hopefully the place you take it to is honest and doesn't take you for a ride. I'm still thinking it might be a ignition switch the failure of these is very common. I would look up Brian Hildreth on here and message him. He will be able to tell you how to trouble shoot the switch and can get you a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you replaced the condensor, plug and set the gap on the points? If one of these are bad it will not run.
I have changed out the condenser, coil, and points with new parts the seller gave me. I know the point is not gapped 100% correctly, as I have not had time to get a set of feeler gauges. It is set close enough to at least run rough.

I don't think it's a problem with the engine from what you've described. I think it's electrical or in the ignition system somewhere. Hopefully the place you take it to is honest and doesn't take you for a ride. I'm still thinking it might be a ignition switch the failure of these is very common. I would look up Brian Hildreth on here and message him. He will be able to tell you how to trouble shoot the switch and can get you a new one.
I'll take the tractor to one of 2 very reputable shops. I have dealt with both and had very good experiences

I feel good about the switch. With the switch in the off position, no voltage is going to the coil. With the switch in the run position, I get 12+ volts to the pos. side of the coil.

The reason I'm thinking the engine, is because the seller used starting fluid to get the engine gunning (not sure how many times). I personally know a lot of farmers that do this and are always having problems with their engines (I know this is kind of apple and oranges). Not knowing what sound the engine made when it quit running under its own power I can not rule the engine out 100%. I'm not sure if he burnt a valve or blew out the top ring, and because of this the piston is not making compression.

I have done some research and have read that others have had the same issue as I am having, and it turned out to be the key to the crankshaft and the flywheel sheared. This would put the lobe the sets the point out of time.

I do get a spark jumping from the spark plug to the block of the engine. I figured it the piston is blown I'll use some brake cleaner to start it, that did not help. I could take the plug out and crank the engine over and see a mist of brake cleaner coming out of the plug hole.

I know this got long winded, thanks for putting up with me on this issue. I'm sure I missed something, ask and I'll fill in the blanks.
 

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I have changed out the condenser, coil, and points with new parts the seller gave me. I know the point is not gapped 100% correctly, as I have not had time to get a set of feeler gauges. It is set close enough to at least run rough.

I do get a spark jumping from the spark plug to the block of the engine. I figured it the piston is blown I'll use some brake cleaner to start it, that did not help. I could take the plug out and crank the engine over and see a mist of brake cleaner coming out of the plug hole.
Before giving up, be sure your brake cleaner is not the inflammable version! Lots of them are now. I buy either CRC or Berryman, both in the version that won't blow me up if I do something stupid!

If you see it blowing out of the spark plug hole when cranking it is very likely that there is enough compression for it to at least run.

Starting fluid can be deadly on diesels, especially those with prechambers or heaters in the manifold or chamber. But, if used correctly it can be very useful.

A sheared flywheel key is very uncommon on K Kohlers. even if it is sheared, it will not affect the timing as the points are actuated by the cam, which is driven by the crank gear. Only flywheel magneto or some electronics are triggered by the flywheel.

Don't give up!
 

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I would get a set of feeler gauges and set the points. I don't know how sensitive the single cylinder kohler's are, but my twin cylinder kohler will not not start or do anything if the points are out of adjustment at all. It was a non stop fight with this issue until I changed the plunger rod for the points. Don't give up it will end up being something simple when you do find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well took the beast in to the shop to confirm my thoughts. The crank rod is broken:Disgus:. He removed the cylinder head and then spun the flywheel. The valves move and the points rod moves, but the piston does not move.

I pick up the tractor and engine. A tractor that was not meant to be a project tractor is now a project tractor. I have not had any time yet to tear into it any more, so I'm not sure on the condition of the rest of the engine.

Some time next week after I have removed the engine from the tractor and torn down the engine I'll post some pics. and I'm sure that I'll have some question.
 
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